Keepin' Warm and Dry
It's the time of year when folks up north begin looking forward to, or dreading the first snow of the season. If you're a snowmobile enthusiast, you're loving it. Soon, you'll be cruising through the snow-covered trees through crisp winter air, or racing across a frozen lake at 100+ mph. However, for us watercraft buffs, winter is the time to hibernate and save our pennies for the next season of riding and racing. But before you snuggle up in that bearskin rug, you must prepare your machine for the long, cold winter.
Most of us know that water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, and we also know that winters can be much, much colder than that. Frozen water expands, and when it does it can wreak havoc to the insides of an engine. Even minute drops of water can cause irreparable damage to cylinders, heads, and pumps due to expansion and corrosion.
We operate our machines on a weekly basis and don't give much thought to corrosion taking place inside our motors. When the lubrication from premix is no longer present, corrosion sets in rapidly.Possibility of total engine loss is an reality. If this happens, all the pennies we've saved during the winter are spent needlessly on rings, bearings, and other corroded parts. This can all be prevented by taking only a few minutes to winterize your machine.
The best way to protect your watercraft is to store it in a heated area, but most of us aren't fortunate enough to have a guest room where our machines can spend the winter. So we have to winterize our craft, taking special care to reduce the chances of freeze-up or corrosion as much as possible.
To displace any water which remains inside the cooling system, flush the system with quality antifreeze which is compatible with aluminum. Disconnect the water hose from the top of the cylinder head and attach a small funnel to it. Start the engine and pour approximately one quart of antifreeze into the head. Rev the motor for a few seconds to displace any water that may be present in the exhaust system. Now, disconnect the exhaust hose at the inlet of the waterbox and pour one quart of antifreeze into the waterbox. Reconnect the hose.
Cast iron cylinder liners can develop rust spots in a matter of days when moisture is present. Start the motor and idle at about 2500 rpm. Spray a good amount of engine fogging oil into each carburetor when the engine is idling. This will coat the entire rotating mass with rust preventing lubrication. Do this for 30 seconds, then shut off the engine. For twin carb setups, do the procedure for both cylinders at the same time. Let the engine cool down for 10 minutes. Now, start the engine and very quickly spray fogging oil into each cylinder until the engine dies.
Remove the spark plugs and spray some more oil into each cylinder while rotating the engine by hand. Replace the spark plugs. Remove the flywheel cover and clean up any water or oil residue inside and behind the flywheel. Inspect the exposed end of the crank for rust spots. Grease the starter shaft, lightly spray with WD40, and replace the cover. Open the ignition box and spray with a water-displacing product designed for electrical components.
Use compressed air to dry everything out, then spray with a silicon spray. Replace the cover. Now, remove the battery and place it on a trickle charger after checking the electrolyte level. Make sure the battery is kept in a fairly warm and dry location so it won't freeze.
Disconnect the fuel lines and use low pressure compressed air to dry them. To help keep the fuel line soft, pour some kerosene through the line. This prevents the gasoline from drying up and leaving varnish deposits. It's a good idea to remove the jet pump, inspect the drive shaft and impeller for damage, and grease the pump bearings using marine quality grease. Remove any water that is present in the bearing housing and spray the entire pump with WD40.
Wash the engine compartment by hand, using dishwashing liquid to remove any scum that has built up during the season. Make sure no water is left inside the engine compartment. While doing this, check the bilge system for water and any debris trapped inside.
Now that your racing season is over, it's a good time to replace your crank seals, gaskets, and rebalance your flywheel. A little preventive maintenance now will make for a trouble-free season next year.
Don't forget to take care of your trailer if you use one. Grease the bearings, remove the tires, clean out the bulb sockets, and lubricate any moving parts.
By taking a little time to properly store your machine, you will prevent a myriad of problems which could ruin your craft in a matter of minutes when the first riding day of spring arrives.
George Grabowski HPT Sport USA