Noob here. just picked up a FL350 over the weekend. I realize I may get a lot of varying responses on this but what does the majority recommend for Engine oil and Trans? Thanks!!

Welcome new guy.

I run Honda HP4.
It is a semi synthetic. I over fill my transmissions. It helps keep the AB gear alive. You can't get these parts anymore so if you blow a transmission you're ded.
I run 2 qts in the trans.

In the Engine you need to do the vent mod so that your starter don't get contaminated by the counter balancer oil.
CO

My list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
Vent mod threads:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17606&hilit=vent+mod
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18016&start=25
If the above is not highlighted in blue then just copy/paste to your browser to open.
Anything on this site that is highlighted in blue can be opened for info.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Must build shock savers. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff. https://www.summitracing.com/int/search ... 0.188.0160 http://www.naake.com/store/1.88-id
16) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold
And here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468
17) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot.
18) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.
19) DO NOT rev the pizz out your machine while it’s just sitting there. The transmission is a splash lube system so this means it gets NO LUBE unless you are moving. There are several threads on blown AB bearings in the transmission. If you blow your AB you’re done, no parts available anymore.
20) You can get a free pdf manual here: https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/

You can find all this info and parts books, serial numbers, etc in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393

Here is how you set the pilot jet:
Pilot jetting -- in my opinion this is the most important for driveability on an oddy. They are just a pain in the azz to drive if it is constantly stumbling and not taking off from low rpm. Setting the pilot jet requires one of those small induction tach's that you can buy on Amazon cheap. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Runleader-HM032R ... ll+engines
1) Basically you just wrap that wire around you sparkplug lead
2) Set your air screw out to 1 1/2 turns
3) Start Engine and let it warm up if possible
4) Set the Engine idle as low as you can but not so that it will stall on you
5) Turn the air screw out half a turn at a time and wait about ten seconds before you do it again. What you are looking for is the point where the Engine idle rpm does not rise anymore as you are unscrewing the air screw. If you are out more than 1 1/2 turns or less than 1 1/2 turns then you have to change your pilot jet. If your air screw is more than 1 1/2 turns out, this means you need the next size smaller pilot jet. If the air screw is less than 1 turn out, this means you need the next size larger pilot jet. Change the pilot jet and redo this test.
CAUTION: You don't want your air screw to fall right out so don't go more than 4 complete turns out. At that point you will have to change your pilot jet anyways.

Edit: I see several things here on my list that are not highlighted in blue. Just copy/paste to your browser to open the link.

Searching for info:
The best way to find something here is to use the search box above.
In the search box type ONE word ONLY and hit enter. If you don't you will get to many hits.
When the list of threads comes up there will be another search box there on the right.
In that box type ONE word ONLY. Keep doing this as many times as you want until you have narrowed it down. Some common words will be ignored like "Engine" "Honda" etc.
Also at the very bottom of any thread you read will be an area where there a similar threads to the one you are reading. You can click on them to read.

Thanks!! Great info. So run the same oil in Engine and trans? I couldn't get the vent mod information to work

Here are the links listed in order that do not appear do be highlighted in my earlier post.
1) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification
2) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17606&hilit=vent+mod
3) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18016&start=25
4) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
5) viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold
6) viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468
7) viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393

The last one (#7) is the parts books and codes thread.

That will keep ya busy. It's all important and invaluable info. All you need to know about these machines is there.

Quote: So run the same oil in Engine and trans? ------ Yes same oil.
CO

Wow. Thanks so much for the incredible information! This machine will be doing a lot of dunes riding. Should I run the HP4M or will the regular HP4 be ok?

I don't know.
I didn't even know there was such a thing as HP4M and don't know any specifics of this product.
Just run the HP4.
CO

I can feel your excitement over the internet. You wana ride this thing.
Well I gota tell you "give it up pal".
You have to do what is on that list I posted.
If you don't you're just setting yourself up for disappointment.
You will blow up the machine and be very unhappy.
These things are over 30 yrs old now and require a lot of maintenance. Trust me.
Its kind of like having a new girl friend. She's so hot but your company has posted you overseas. You know you got a hottie at home and you really wana have some fun. Well if you don't have a paycheque the hottie aint gona be around very long.
One thing at a time.
CO

just to point out the obvious, when you say run the same oil in the Engine and trans, your talking counter balancer, the actual Engine oil comes from the premix

OH ****
I just took it for granted that's what he was talking about .
Good catch Kuma.