My list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an
Engine job or bought one
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
Vent mod threads:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17606&hilit=vent+mod
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18016&start=25
If the above is not highlighted in blue then just copy/paste to your browser to open.
Anything on this site that is highlighted in blue can be opened for info.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Must build shock savers. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/search ... 0.188.0160 http://www.naake.com/store/1.88-id 16) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold
And here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468
17) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot.
18) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.
19) DO NOT rev the pizz out your machine while it’s just sitting there. The transmission is a splash lube system so this means it gets NO LUBE unless you are moving. There are several threads on blown AB bearings in the transmission. If you blow your AB you’re done, no parts available anymore.
20) You can get a free pdf manual here:
https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/You can find all this info and parts books, serial numbers, etc in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393
Here is how you set the pilot jet:
Pilot jetting -- in my opinion this is the most important for driveability on an oddy. They are just a pain in the azz to drive if it is constantly stumbling and not taking off from low rpm. Setting the pilot jet requires one of those small induction tach's that you can buy on Amazon cheap. This is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Runleader-HM032R ... ll+engines
1) Basically you just wrap that wire around you sparkplug lead
2) Set your air screw out to 1 1/2 turns
3) Start Engine and let it warm up if possible
4) Set the Engine idle as low as you can but not so that it will stall on you
5) Turn the air screw out half a turn at a time and wait about ten seconds before you do it again. What you are looking for is the point where the Engine idle rpm does not rise anymore as you are unscrewing the air screw. If you are out more than 1 1/2 turns or less than 1 1/2 turns then you have to change your pilot jet. If your air screw is more than 1 1/2 turns out, this means you need the next size smaller pilot jet. If the air screw is less than 1 turn out, this means you need the next size larger pilot jet. Change the pilot jet and redo this test.
CAUTION: You don't want your air screw to fall right out so don't go more than 4 complete turns out. At that point you will have to change your pilot jet anyways.
Edit: I see several things here on my list that are not highlighted in blue. Just copy/paste to your browser to open the link.