Hi guys.

So I am in the process of installing a rectifier to get 12v DC out for a fan but I have a very strange issue.
Following this thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1313 I have a 35A 600v rectifier spliced into the yellow and the black/red wires. (I did not disconnect then, I just spliced into them) and I get 68v DC at idle from the rectifier...

Disconnecting one of the AC inputs to the rectifier gives me 24v DC.
I measured the AC volts at the headlight, and it is getting 28v AC.
Measuring the yellow and the black/red wires gives me 65v AC at idle.
Also switching the voltage meter to DC gives me 28v DC on the yellow and black/red wires.
Hows can the stator output BOTH AC and DC???

None of these values seem correct. I thought the FL250's output 12v AC not 24v+?



Does anyone have a clue what's going on? The buggy runs great and the headlight is really bright.
Does this mean I have to rewire the whole buggy??
Thanks!

Assume your checking the voltage at idle? Does the voltage go up when you rev the Engine?

Yup! Giving it some gas gave me 72v DC from the rectifier. I didn't check the AC when I revved it though.

Okay the buggy is outputting roughly 50v AC somehow. That's what I get measuring the yellow and red/black together going to the rectifier. (Should I be measuring yellow to black then red/black to black instead???)

Light is receiving ~28v AC.

I rewired it a bit to remove old and loose splices and connectors. No wires were crossed before but everything is cleaner looking now. Probably gained some spark to the ground fell off the spark plug coil as I touched it lol.

Is there a guide or a member here who knows the voltage output from the 4 wires coming from the Engine?
I hear the Clymer manual has a stator test. I don't have that manual. Can someone porvide the steps to do the stator test?
My father never touched the wires at all and the stator should be original unless a previous own replaced it... Not sure why it's outputting so many volts.

Thanks everyone!


EDIT: I appear to have continuity between the yellow and the frame also the blue/white to frame as well. These wires come from the Engine behind the rip cord which is the stator IIRC. If so them that means the stator is burnt out??
At least that is what I am reading online... If there is no resistance between the stator wires and ground then the stator is bad. Can anyone confirm this?

Could someone test for continuity between the stator wires and frame as well please? That way we can confirm is my stator is dead...

From this site: http://cycleelectricinc.com/Diegnosing% ... nators.htm

Not sure if this helps. But when i converted mine we had to float the ground on the lighting coil.

"Float" the ground?

I've seen that term used a few times but I never understood what it means. =/

It has to something about removing ground wire from the coil. Or soldering ground wire to the other side of the coil. I got my info on this from the member Hotrod on this site. Once the ground wire was floated we had zero problems charging the electric start battery.

Here is a video i made a few years ago. https://youtu.be/arSKtLM735k

This is for charging batrery. Then lights had to have ground and hot wire to run them.

but i think floating is moving ground ground coil to the other side of the lighting coil. But pkease verify.

I've been looking up a lot on this, but as i understand it, the entire charging system on this machine is AC. You have an AC coil that provides voltage for the ignition, and an a/c charging coil for the lighting. They both have a common ground, going to the frame. Due to the differences between the movement of electrons with A/C and D/C power, they cannot share a ground, as one of the circuits would be constantly shorting with the change of motion in the electrons, so you have to isolate the two. The most common appears to be 'floating' the ground by using the charging circuit to power a rectifier. The rectifier produces DC, and you can use this to charge a battery, but anything being used by the battery needs to now have two wires going to it, as you cannot use the frame as a common ground for the D/C circuit, as the A/C is using it for the charging system. Basically, you need to wire the lights and their switches with a red wire for power and the black wire for ground w/o using the frame (you could get tricky and use some sort of relay for the switching, but it would take some thought). Now, i'm not an expert, but that is what i think i understand from the subject. I've been wondering if you can change the entire system over to D/C, and power the ignition system off the battery, but i haven't figured out if using the power from the battery would be sufficient. I always thought i would dabble with this some more if i could find a electric start kit to fool around with, but i haven't been able to find one yet.

Ohhh okay. I will watch your video soon I hope. I currently do not have my main computer and this one I'm using doesn't play youtube videos...

So floating as I understand it is separating the ground from he rest of the electronics. At least that's what I'm reading.


Indeed AC and DC can't share the same ground. I was reading a few days ago about some other ATV that did this. Some polaris I think.

No I don't have any electric start on this FL250. All I have done is tapped into 2 wires coming from the Engine the yellow and the red/black, and somehow they give too many volts.

I have confirmed that the stator has continuity to ground, the frame. I read this is bad and that means the stator is now bad. Even if this was the case - the stator is feeding voltage to the frame from a short it shouldn't matter since the rectifier is not grounded to anything.
I'm really not wanting to tear out the stator since everything else works perfectly. If it ain't broke don't fix it right? What I do want to try though is splitting the yellow wire into 2 and feeding both wires into the rectifier. Perhaps that way it will give me 12v DC instead of 24V with just feeding it the one yellow wire.

Perhaps I have the wrong rectifier for this?

Ohhh okay. I will watch your video soon I hope. I currently do not have my main computer and this one I'm using doesn't play youtube videos...

So floating as I understand it is separating the ground from he rest of the electronics. At least that's what I'm reading.


Indeed AC and DC can't share the same ground. I was reading a few days ago about some other ATV that did this. Some polaris I think.

No I don't have any electric start on this FL250. All I have done is tapped into 2 wires coming from the Engine the yellow and the red/black, and somehow they give too many volts.

I have confirmed that the stator has continuity to ground, the frame. I read this is bad and that means the stator is now bad. Even if this was the case - the stator is feeding voltage to the frame from a short it shouldn't matter since the rectifier is not grounded to anything.
I'm really not wanting to tear out the stator since everything else works perfectly. If it ain't broke don't fix it right? What I do want to try though is splitting the yellow wire into 2 and feeding both wires into the rectifier. Perhaps that way it will give me 12v DC instead of 24V with just feeding it the one yellow wire.

Perhaps I have the wrong rectifier for this?

Good morning. I have the day off today so I thought I may be able to shed some light on your issue.
First I need to know what year of ody you have. The DC set up you linked is for an 1980 12 volt and you may have a prior 6 volt model. The 1980 12 hook up listed in the link will not work with you 6 v set up. Your trying to get 12 volt from the mag coil which is part of your ignition system with a condenser on the coil. It simply will not work. Honda installed a second coil in the 80 version for a 12 volt set up in addition they installed a mag coil. Compare the two wiring schm and you have your answer.

here is a pics of the two wireing systems

I have done more review on this. The link listed shows using the 2 12 volt coils on the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) model for 1981. If you have a single 12 volt model from 76 to 80 or a 6 volt model the link will not work.

You need to either get a 12 volt rectifier and convert to a 12 volt set up either non CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) or CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) coil. or build you a different set up using the 6 lighting coil only. OR build a different set up for you 12 single coil rectifier.

Hope this helps
Adnoh


I need garage time, Damit.

more info:
With the older Odyssey 6 volt systems 1977-79 the battery needs to be charged after each days use.
Some people have installed small Solar Panels in order to keep the battery maintained.

parts to fix:
http://oddatv.com/product/gokihonda-fl2 ... -77-to-84/

Note install a battery and your good to go

Hi!
Thank you very much for all the diagrams adnoh!

I do not know the exact year, I have been told it is an 1982 FL250 but I do have the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) version of the FL250.

I'm going to get the buggy out of the shed in a few min, today is a perfect day to work on it some more. I'm going to try and split the yellow from the coil into 2 wires and feed them both into the bridge rectifier I have.

For reference, it is a 600v 35A bridge rectifier. Perhaps this is why I'm getting such high voltage from it? It's larger than I need in terms of voltages and amperage?

Hopefully we can all figure this one out!
Thanks!

Okay so I've attached a picture showing how the rectifier is hooked up.

At idle it outputs 1.47v DC
At WOT (Wide Open Throttle) it outputs 11.17v DC at WOT (Wide Open Throttle)!
I re-wired the FL250 last week, I removed a fair amount of old splices and weak wires. Perhaps that was the issue the whole time - a bad ground or something.

I'm going to hook up the red/black to the rectifier as well to see if I can get 13v DC at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). That way I can charge a battery.

I think your main issue is the rating of the diodes connected to form your full wave bridge and your connection. I would consult a electronic person. In his drawing he is using a 50 volt set up on two 12 volt coils for a full ac wave block. granted the diodes are drawn wrong but that not a big deal as his current flow is correct. Each half is blocked and he is using a capacitor to smooth out the voltage and using a battery as a buffer. There is a charge time on the capacitor to keep in mind according to load and can affect the voltage reading if no battery was installed.

If I get my work done today I will do some math on the diagram. Keep in mind on his set up he factored in load to maintain battery charging.

Adnoh

Could someone post a Goki wiring diagram that is legible? I can’t read any of the writing on the one that has already been posted. I have this electric start on my odyssey but the wiring is all jacked up and I need to re-wire the whole thing.
Thanks.

Hi!

I'm glad I had email notifications turned on!

If it's the one I can find online, I'll try to make sense of the blurry wording for you but unless someone else here has the diagram, I won't be of much help.

Did you try searching the forums??

Thanks for the response. I did try looking for another diagram on the forum but could only find the link to the blurry one. If you can make sense of it that would be great. Thanks for your help.

Here is my best at decoding that fuzzy drawing of the goki starter.
As you can see the info provided is next to useless.
It did not give you a color code of the wire you need to tap into from the Engine.

In my opinion you could just simplify this whole thing and just not tap into the stock harness wiring and just recharge the battery at home.
Apparently the charging of the battery by the Engine is suspect anyway and nothing but a "trickle" charging anyways. I know there is a thread and a video here that is more involved but the info is limited and technical.
Just my opinion.
CO

Here is another short read on the subject by a long time member that hasn't been around in a long time (like the rest of us).
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6126
CO

OMG I'm such a fool.
I have this pdf on my computer for the Goki starter.
I have so much info on odyssey's it's tough for me to find it all.
CO

Lol beat me to it!!
Just finished decoding the pic myself lol