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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Looks awesome!!! Great work as always. Looking forward to seeing this one come together. :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 12:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
Frame turned out good


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Never mind the harness is completely different than the harness


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2019 11:53 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Installed the rack-n-pinion, steering stabilizer, steering shaft, plumbed up the new brake lines, put the foot pedals in. Have the mount made to secure the fuel tank as well. Pulled the Engine apart and replaced all the gaskets and crank seals. Found out when I pulled it apart the base gasket on the clutch side had started leaking. Cleaned up the cylinder put it all back together and finished off the wiring. Originally all the electronics were just bolted to a plate attached to the Engine. Went ahead and runner mounted them since it was apart and the old mounts holes were elongated. I get spark at the plugs and power to the fan as well as where the headlights/taillights would be. I’m waiting on a new rear brake mount. I decided to ditch the original set up and go with the one on the red EEE. The caliper not only sits closer to the trans but weighs less than the old setup. The mount will be more compact also. Needed to turn .012 off the new rotor to clear the carb float bowl . Finally took the carbs apart. One was great the other not so much. The old fuel has eaten away at the float bowl and other parts. I’m going to try one of those sonic cleaners and if that doesn’t work out will see what eBay has to offer.


Attachments:
File comment: Back side of Dash panel.
378056DF-EBF0-4576-896E-3C27F2552643.jpeg
378056DF-EBF0-4576-896E-3C27F2552643.jpeg [ 86.53 KiB | Viewed 3051 times ]
File comment: Foot pedals and rack-n-pinion
05347F21-E1F3-4484-A611-F12A40BCB135.jpeg
05347F21-E1F3-4484-A611-F12A40BCB135.jpeg [ 92.32 KiB | Viewed 3051 times ]
1810A915-8E83-4D57-B283-02776DEEAA39.jpeg
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E9F1732F-1888-4CB7-B95F-F1F7CA578565.jpeg
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7AA5C7F4-42CC-4EC9-A3BF-52971A671314.jpeg
7AA5C7F4-42CC-4EC9-A3BF-52971A671314.jpeg [ 91.53 KiB | Viewed 3051 times ]
7CB55747-1ACF-40DE-8B2C-A8D803CA7565.jpeg
7CB55747-1ACF-40DE-8B2C-A8D803CA7565.jpeg [ 88.41 KiB | Viewed 3051 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2019 12:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 3496
Location: houston
Looking good!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2019 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
Nice. Somebody’s be busy


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Well it runs. I picked up a new set of carbs off eBay as the old fuel pitted the existing carbs terrible. I still have a bunch to do but am happy it ran. Next will be checking for air leaks, new carb boots from carb to air cleaners, adjusting cables, mounting air filters, repack the muffler, check to make sure it’s all tight and so on and so on. Just a short video, I think the starter took a crap after this. It will turn over without the plugs but just clicks with the plugs in.
https://youtu.be/jRyK_zCAgTw
Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 1:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Rppjr wrote:
Well it runs. I picked up a new set of carbs off eBay as the old fuel pitted the existing carbs terrible. I still have a bunch to do but am happy it ran. Next will be checking for air leaks, new carb boots from carb to air cleaners, adjusting cables, mounting air filters, repack the muffler, check to make sure it’s all tight and so on and so on. Just a short video, I think the starter took a crap after this. It will turn over without the plugs but just clicks with the plugs in.
https://youtu.be/jRyK_zCAgTw
Bob


Doesn't look very good.
Looks like one of my machines after a ride ----- parts missing.
You better send it to me for repairs and test n tune.
CO


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 2:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
sounds like it need a can, then you get that sweet sounding braappp


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 8:18 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Doesn't look very good.
Looks like one of my machines after a ride ----- parts missing.
You better send it to me for repairs and test n tune.
CO[/quote]

Haha, if you weren’t a couple thousand miles away we could go for a ride. Maybe next time your in Vegas it will be up and running and you can take it for a spin.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 8:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
fully wrote:
sounds like it need a can, then you get that sweet sounding braappp


I couldn’t find part of the exhaust at that moment. Looked again and found the silencer then ran it again quickly. Need to adjust the cables and carbs.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 12:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2018 2:03 pm
Posts: 549
Location: Jerseydale, CA
I have thought several times in the past that my Goki starter gave out but come to find out, it just takes an absolute beast of a battery and PERFECT starter cables. I'm using full automotive gauge wire and a Lithium battery with CCA of 300.


Not sure that's what happened to you, but it saved me. Works Everytime now.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
I just wanted to hear it run. I was using a 250 amp jump starter. Hell I don’t have radiator hoses for it, fuel tank/fuel pump wasn’t hooked up ( ran a fuel line and filled up the bowls that way). I have to find some tuning info on the flat side Mikuni carbs. The old ones gas went bad and pitted them. This buggy sat in a conex box in Texas for a couple years before I picked it up. I have one ground cable from Engine to frame that is old. All the other cables are 4 gauge and new from BatterycableUSA. They will make any length/gauge end size you need and prices are very good.
Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 4:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Rppjr wrote:
Doesn't look very good.
Looks like one of my machines after a ride ----- parts missing.
You better send it to me for repairs and test n tune.
CO


Haha, if you weren’t a couple thousand miles away we could go for a ride. Maybe next time your in Vegas it will be up and running and you can take it for a spin.[/quote]





That sounds pretty tempting.
I hope you got spare parts. Things tend to fly off in crashes. Crashes tough on this old body too.

Actually thought about coming down in Dec but when I looked online, those hotels have all gone mad on their prices. Unbelievable. Most likely be down in June for the world series of poker. That's the plan anyways. Things change daily. Fighting off a flu bug right now. Haven't been feeling well for 3 days now.
CO


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
I bit the bullet and took some parts down to a machine shop. Bought a splined hub and had it turned into the brake setup on the other EEE. Turbos buggy was using a Honda Goldwing brake caliper, the problem was the mount was terrible. It wouldn’t slide on the pins. This setup I can swap between buggies if I never need to. The caliper is smaller but according to the web site has the same clamping force. We will see, here are some pictures


Attachments:
File comment: Splined hub on the right and the “other” buggies hub and rotor assembly
6BBC646A-949A-406B-9031-93C4986B84F4.jpeg
6BBC646A-949A-406B-9031-93C4986B84F4.jpeg [ 30.74 KiB | Viewed 2741 times ]
File comment: Complete setup that was copied
D4F0D7CF-55EC-41E6-A391-6EC6E2679881.jpeg
D4F0D7CF-55EC-41E6-A391-6EC6E2679881.jpeg [ 60.07 KiB | Viewed 2741 times ]
File comment: The completed setup for turbos buggy. The rotor had to have about 6 thousandths turned off of it to clear the intake tube for the carburetors and the carb itself. It all fits now though
08F2D21E-160C-42B6-8C88-8C30E753F0B6.jpeg
08F2D21E-160C-42B6-8C88-8C30E753F0B6.jpeg [ 60.6 KiB | Viewed 2741 times ]
File comment: The individual parts. This caliper is the 150 series made by airheart. The other EEE uses the 175 series (it’s no longer made).
7422AC69-503D-4BEC-B323-535D5E040802.jpeg
7422AC69-503D-4BEC-B323-535D5E040802.jpeg [ 60.44 KiB | Viewed 2741 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2020 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Decided to test fit all the suspension and steering except the shocks. I’m still waiting on those as they need to new rear shafts and one new front reservoir. Some pics of the front/rear control arms, front and rear hub and cv assemblies and finally tie rods. Couple pictures of the rear outboard hub assembly. I’m going to have a local machine shop mill the inside enough for the cv boot to fit in a groove and then bolt the 2 halves together. Trying to avoid the way it was done before.


Attachments:
CBD964D2-1EE2-42E1-B461-BF073F74B350.jpeg
CBD964D2-1EE2-42E1-B461-BF073F74B350.jpeg [ 66.8 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
CE45013E-7FE9-4CF4-9962-831DD7AEB595.jpeg
CE45013E-7FE9-4CF4-9962-831DD7AEB595.jpeg [ 57.77 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
40F335E0-C756-4ED0-8E75-224185F7F223.jpeg
40F335E0-C756-4ED0-8E75-224185F7F223.jpeg [ 80.85 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
66E9030A-FD78-421C-B216-7F85D83A8387.jpeg
66E9030A-FD78-421C-B216-7F85D83A8387.jpeg [ 80.65 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
EF89A7C9-373D-4F22-B3D0-58B047658D16.jpeg
EF89A7C9-373D-4F22-B3D0-58B047658D16.jpeg [ 88.21 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
7EAB3135-16DA-47C0-9275-AE538B1EA375.jpeg
7EAB3135-16DA-47C0-9275-AE538B1EA375.jpeg [ 36.63 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2020 8:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
One more of the rear hub and the inner body panels and heat shield. It’s going to need to be remade


Attachments:
A3C31025-081B-42AF-B8B3-791CB46DE5F6.jpeg
A3C31025-081B-42AF-B8B3-791CB46DE5F6.jpeg [ 51.97 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
E6F14CB4-8A65-4ED8-ABFD-6FC91034FAAD.jpeg
E6F14CB4-8A65-4ED8-ABFD-6FC91034FAAD.jpeg [ 86.97 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
F0C1AD76-EF4C-4F7B-9E85-31A02F1FFEEA.jpeg
F0C1AD76-EF4C-4F7B-9E85-31A02F1FFEEA.jpeg [ 84.6 KiB | Viewed 2727 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
top notch work bob


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Thanks Fully,

Took a day off from work, installed the knuckles, wheel bearings and seals. Bolted the rotors on and then finally the calipers. It all went relatively smoothly. Pulling the calipers (trx250R) back off and will grease them slide pins. Finished bleeding the brakes again as the brake lines needed to be routed another way.


Attachments:
image.jpg
image.jpg [ 70.55 KiB | Viewed 2685 times ]
image.jpg
image.jpg [ 55.16 KiB | Viewed 2685 times ]
image.jpg
image.jpg [ 67.2 KiB | Viewed 2685 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 8:46 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Pulled the wheels/tires out of the shed. After sitting for years they still hold air. Cleaned up the rears with just some aluminum wheel cleaner and the fronts with Mothers polish. They all came out pretty nice. I mentioned in the last post I was going to pull the pins in the front calipers and lube them. Well that didn’t go as planned. One wouldn’t budge at all. Tried a couple different ways to remove it and finally bought a set off of eBay. They were in great shape and came with all hardware. Ordered a battery, and have to paint the battery box and fuel tank hold down. Went through some boxes of parts and found some actual type 4 cv’s. All you can find now a days are the type 2’s. Dropped those off at the machine shop for some work as well as the outboard hubs.


Attachments:
C1886CB4-F81E-47CF-B9B1-42B47A923E2D.jpeg
C1886CB4-F81E-47CF-B9B1-42B47A923E2D.jpeg [ 53.55 KiB | Viewed 2630 times ]
B109301B-12DA-4066-8482-E297839B9819.jpeg
B109301B-12DA-4066-8482-E297839B9819.jpeg [ 50.25 KiB | Viewed 2630 times ]
EF5C8550-8855-4506-9145-7E303B9EA514.jpeg
EF5C8550-8855-4506-9145-7E303B9EA514.jpeg [ 37 KiB | Viewed 2630 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
You're doing a lot of nice work there lately.
You must be bored :-) .
CO


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2020 8:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
The inner part of the outboard cv assembly was milled to accommodate the lip of the cv boot. Machine shop left it sitting about .002 above the lip to help sandwich the boot in place. They lightened the cv’s as well as drilling the 8mm holes to 3/8ths to fit the cups being used. When turbo had the buggy it came with a large leather type cover over the assembly (see pic). It had a reducer that went over the axle and inside of the boot then finally a spring to pull it towards the inner cv. If not constantly greased and cleaned the o ring inside would dry out and try to wrap the boot around the axle. It worked but still let water and moisture get to the bearings. Seals we’re installed that he gave me but I believe it’s iffy on how well they will actually work. My idea gets rid of the large boot and just means I have to maintain the assembly. It’s a pain in the ass to replace the boots either way. From the pics you can see the outer half positioned in the carrier. 3 bolts attach the inner/outer parts together and then the cv joint is added and then the cap. The cv bolts go all the way through and bolt to the inner half. I was going to drill a hole in the cap add a zerk fitting to make greasing it easier. Hopefully that all makes sense.


Attachments:
File comment: Lip machined in the inner assembly that the lip of the cv fits into
95019DCF-F6FA-488D-88EA-C1C9408BF7A0.jpeg
95019DCF-F6FA-488D-88EA-C1C9408BF7A0.jpeg [ 37.92 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
File comment: Cv boot assembled in the lip. The outer half bolts to this and sandwiches the boot in place. It all rotated as one assembly so it should work.
516614AB-9938-4981-8662-99568AC9AFCA.jpeg
516614AB-9938-4981-8662-99568AC9AFCA.jpeg [ 40.3 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
File comment: Pic of the original setup. From what I’ve seen most of these setups ran 2 boots. The one in this pic was just to protect in the inner assembly.
C9298837-4E98-44D9-8A0D-98B89D2DA1B1.jpeg
C9298837-4E98-44D9-8A0D-98B89D2DA1B1.jpeg [ 75.99 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
File comment: Pic of the outer seal.
7D04CF51-F089-4A0E-9495-11B62D0B7B54.jpeg
7D04CF51-F089-4A0E-9495-11B62D0B7B54.jpeg [ 45.19 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
File comment: Inner seal with outer assembly installed. Note the 6 holes for the cv bolts and three to bolt the halves together
DCD4C973-CFC7-44AD-8371-B9A75DFFEC7D.jpeg
DCD4C973-CFC7-44AD-8371-B9A75DFFEC7D.jpeg [ 57.6 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
File comment: Lightened cv assembly, the original came this way. I scored a set of Lobro type 4’s. About all you can are type 2’s and they can’t achieve the same angles as the type 4’s
CA091619-8DA9-4357-91C5-3CA06FE1E5AA.jpeg
CA091619-8DA9-4357-91C5-3CA06FE1E5AA.jpeg [ 40.25 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2020 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Few more pictures
With all the parts back I should have the axles assemblies installed by next Monday.


Attachments:
File comment: All three pieces in the carrier
4ABC2311-CB37-44D9-8BDF-7A8DA9D7C0D5.jpeg
4ABC2311-CB37-44D9-8BDF-7A8DA9D7C0D5.jpeg [ 65.1 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
5F658792-2C1C-4846-A434-6AB38FB130D5.jpeg
5F658792-2C1C-4846-A434-6AB38FB130D5.jpeg [ 70.3 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
File comment: This setup runs 25 1/2 inch 33 spline axles with type 4 cv assemblies. The shocks I thought were 10” worx. When I sent them to be rebuilt QSS ( formerly worx) said the shafts were longer than normal. So I’m waiting on them to make new shafts as well as finding a new front reservoir as one was cracked.
FB9B0E7D-6BBB-4288-94F3-91F8762112F0.jpeg
FB9B0E7D-6BBB-4288-94F3-91F8762112F0.jpeg [ 59.76 KiB | Viewed 2532 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2021 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 874
Here are a few pictures to revive this thread. I havent done much because im still waiting on the shocks to be finished. they have been out for over a year between Quality shock and Works shock. It does run/drive/shift/brake. Still needs skid plates, seat mounted, belt gaurd, heat shield. Here are some old pictures of the EEE when it was raced in the desert. The car was owned by Stu Pearce and he had 2 cars one for each son that raced. the colors were reversed on the cars to tell who was who. he had a guy (i don't remember the name re inforce the front and rear control arms as well as make a mid board hub for them to get more rear wheel travel. He also had a buggy built for himself running a street bike Engine in it. the EEE's both ran a modified verson of the 350 engines.


Attachments:
File comment: The top buggy is the one Stu had built for himself the lower left is the buggy I bought from Brooks who purchased it from Stu. The buggy on the right Rusty (shoudababa)owns. These cars are easy to identify because of the 15" wheels on the rear.
GDBR3652.JPG
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File comment: This is the for sale ad, Brooks still had the picture and the phone number was actually still in use by Stu.
IMG_8023.JPG
IMG_8023.JPG [ 43.7 KiB | Viewed 2259 times ]
IMG_8111.JPG
IMG_8111.JPG [ 66.36 KiB | Viewed 2259 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2021 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I hope I'm in your will :-) .
CO


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