Yeah I am not liking that flywheel.
Just my opinion.

Swapping it with my other one now

WTF! No change! Still does the same thing

That's fkn crazy.
New carb, new CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), exhaust off, filter off, new flywheel, it starts and idles -- WTF ??

Lets try one more thing then I give up.
Start it up -- hold full throttle -- get a can of ether and spray it in the intake.
If it revs up then your not getting fuel. Has to be.

It's the stator, the larger coil has no continuity through the windings. I have it apart on the bench, the guy bought a new stator and installed it. He just got a bad part and just assumed it was good because it was new. I assumed the same thing and after the flywheel didn't work I did side by side testing with my meter on both the odysseys.

I'm going to unsolder the good larger coil from the old stator and solder it onto the "new" stator.

This is amazing, they never removed the coating when they soldered the wire on. I removed the coating and it's fine, unbelievable.

Great catch.
Who would ever think that when you buy new stuff it turns out to be junk.
I azzumed the same as you. Why would we think different ??

There's a first time for everything. Way to endure! Glad you got it worked out.

I hope this thread helps someone if they have the same problem. How many of these stators made it out the door like this? Someone out there frustrated because they bought a new stator and had the same or new problems.

So I put the hole thing back together last night, did the red rtv on the exhaust a 9:00pm so I wont be starting it today. Tomorrow when I get home from work I'm going to start it up and tune the carb best I can. I told my son it will be sitting in the yard running when he gets off the bus from school on Thursday.

Next I'm going to look into the starter and see if I can find a alternative or repair the one I have. I will post anything I find on the starter.

Thanks again for the help everyone.

Went to start it today for my son getting off the bus.... same problem

You said it was fine after you fixed the stator.
Maybe it got a short after you fixed it.
Replace that stator with one off of your running machine and see if it runs.
Just keep swapping parts from your running machine. Looks like that's the best solution now.

Found this on youboob: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=747x2nmHlcQ
I think you are right on with the problem based on that vid but maybe they screwed that whole coil when they built it.
Read the comments by "fidel catsro" and click on the "read more" tab.

Thanks CO, I went through and tested everything again per the shop manual, coil, CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), stator and even ohm the harness and checked the switches. The coil that I fixed in my post up above is the lighting coil and from what I can tell in the schematic has nothing to do with ignition.

I pulled the Engine and removed the stator again. It has to be something with the primary coil, just like they talk about in the comments of the YouTube video.

Since this is AC can the primary coil be backwards causing the AC signal to rise or fall at the wrong time? That would be similar to having the timing off.

did a little reading this morning and I think it might be the pulse/trigger coil. This is the small coil used to tell the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) when to fire the spark, timing. I'll have to double check this one when I get home. I measured it last night and if I remember right it was 39 ohms and the manual stated 40 ohms, so its testing out right, maybe this one it mounted wrong?

I'm close, just need to figure it out

I thought about the trigger coil too but discounted it because the machine runs.
If it was shot then your machine won't run -- period.
It's just a switch -- it works or it don't.
That's how I see it.

Did you clean that magneto? The one pictured in this thread has a lot of debris. Could the debris be causing issues? Did you gap coils? I used a playing card to gap mine.

If you get metallic debris between the magneto and the coil wouldn't it short out?

I can imaging that ferrous debris moving around as the magnetic fields change as the RPMs increase.

I had a similar problem. It wound up being the exciter coil. There are bad replacement parts floating around with them. They test fine with a dmm, but only let the Engine idle. When you try to run them, they just feel gutless. I changed it out for one from ODDATV.

I tried this after i read this in his store add:

HERE WE HAVE THE REPLACMENT (the real one) IGNITION COIL FOR THE

81-84 FL250 STATOR ASSEMBLY. fully encapsulated like O.E.M.(TO PROTECT THE WINDINGS FROM IMPACT , AND CORROSION FROM WATER)--THIS COIL IS AS GOOD, IF NOT BETTER AND MORE DURABLE THAN THE O.E.M. ONE. FAR SUPERIOR TO OTHER GENERIC COILS OUT THERE. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR--DO YOU REALLY WANT TO BE 4 MILES INTO THE WOODS--AND YOUR STATOR COIL FAILS?--THERE ARE OTHER COILS OUT THERE THAT FIT AND LOOK CORRECT--YOUR ODYSSEY WILL START AND IDLE--BUT IT WONT ACCELERATE---people spend weeks pulling their hair out--trying to figure out why their odyssey starts and idles --but wont run. ALSO, IF YOU BOUGHT A EMGO COIL P/N

24-37800 FOR YOUR 81-84 FL250 AND IT STARTS AND IDLES, BUT IT WONT ACCELERATE ITS BECAUSE THE EMGO COIL DOSENT WORK.--EVEN THE OHM READINGS ARE CORRECT--ANYWAY--THIS NEW CUSTOM WOUND COIL IS THE WAY TO GO.YOUR CURRENT STATOR COIL-- could be the problem.-- STATOR PLATE PHOTO IS FOR INSTALLATION REFERENCE ONLY--STATOR PLATE IS NOT INCLUDED-YOU WILL RECEIVE THE COIL, THE CLAMP, AND THE INSLULATOR TUBE FOR THE WIRE----FOR TECH HELP, OR ANY OTHER QUESTIONS REGARDING SHIPPING--EMAIL ME OR CALL ME AT 1 631 737 3340 THANK YOU! JOE

Here is a link to the add on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-FL250-OD ... Swu4BV6len

I'm pretty sure i got my first machine for cheap because they guy replaced the original with a EMGO coil, and couldn't get it to run right. When/if you install it, make sure you clean the coating off the wire like you did with the lighting coil. Just an idea.

I switch stators this morning with my other odyssey and it works. Definitely the excitor coil, I'll order a new one from oddatv. The bad one I have measures good with my dmm. Im putting my other one back together and adding a goki starter kit that I picked up for it.

I also think I found a replacement starter for the goki kit, so both my sons will have starters. I will post up pictures, part number and the source after I order and know that it works.

Anyway check out this NOS goki kit.

Holy F--K Where did you get a NOS Goki kit?


That's cool!!!


Also you're a saint for finding a replacement starter. This thread has turned into a wealth of FL250 knowledge.

Thanks, I picked the NOS Goki starter kit up on ebay

I ordered the replacement starter for my other fl250 that had the goki kit but had a bad starter. The starter was $69 shipped, I'll post all the info in a few days when I have it. I did send measurements and spec of my starter and they did confirm everything is the same.

I ordered the replacement exciter coil from oddatv and that should be here Thursday. Hopefully the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is here and I can just assemble everything and be done.

On top of all of this I picked up a FL350 last night, beat up but runs and drives great. So now my two sons and I all have something to drive and all with electric starters... my shoulder is so happy.

I'm happy for you too! You know how much your kids love you for those Odysseys and what better way to spend time with your kids.


Congrats on the cool machines and keep us posted on the coil.


So jealous of the NOS Goki kit, can I ask what you paid? I was waiting for one for a very long time before I caved and bought a used one.

Sure, I paid $400 for the kit and $22 for shipping. It was 100% complete and even came in the box the Goki shipped the starters in, had the Goki address and everything.

What did you pay for a used one and how complete was it?

Paid $300 for a used kit that was missing the recoil starter spacer.....

Having two machines helps a lot for trouble shooting. Make sure you find a spare t for the fuel system. I try to keep one on hand for when they fail. That is a whole 'nother pain in the ass to diagnose.

No sir -- If it fails the flow test when you take the line off the carb to measure flow then put the line back on carb and remove return line to tank. Retest. If it passes the flow test now then T is shot. If it still fails then pump is shot.
One indication I got when jetting was leaned out was that you get a backfire when going to full throttle.
If an oddy EVEN ONCE backfires get out of the throttle NOW !!
A spare T is always good because they are cheap. I make my own check valves out of a spring and bearing. There is a thread on here about it somewhere.