The longer ones are distance collars they go between the two bearings inner race so when you tighten the BIG nut your not putting stress on the ball bearings, the vertical line you see looks like a weld on a seam I assume they used seam pipe to make the collars, the length is critical it sets the exact distance if the ends are not damaged or worn down, or any damage that would affect the length use them again.

The short collars are a spacer the grooves on the outside are where the seal rides it is exposed to the elements so wear and rust easily, we need some of these fabricated out of stainless steel tubing they would last forever.. If worn too much they will allow dirt, water etc. past, you have seen whats inside.

a little scrubbing and banging and this is where I stand so far,

Take a hack saw and cut them off bewteen the round part and the frame, they put a HUGE GOB of weld in their lol

those look familiar!!! what you are cutting off to return yto stock!!!
did chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts copy tis for his long travel kit???

Yeah there is way too much play in the steering on this setup.
I knew it when I bought it. With maintenance the steering sures up. But, it was more than just the rack that needed servicing.

And as we looked into it the play was additive from the ball joints to steering wheel.
Started down the path of replacing the ball joints. Then Hare was nice enough to score some parts for me.

In the northeast here the trails are tight and I need a tighter turning radius without having the lite up the rear tires to turn around. I decided to swap out the LT A Arms and while I'm at it replace the steering back to Honda.

I liked the LT and all. But, I need to be more practical.

I would have just removed the clips and pulled the rack. But then the mounts are in the way of the tie rods etc.

I have all the parts. Except for brake lines. I have braided lines and they were damaged by my carelessness.
Once I get the rack exposed and removed I will order new braided lines sized to fit.

keep these parts for me if you don't mind.... just for some research stuff... make some good msrmt on fitting that you will cut off!!! LOL

rack & pinion steering??? interesting...
How did this handle and steer??? were you happy with it??? except for your width concerns???

Take all kinds of pics as you remove it.

OK I will keep taking pics.
Right now I need to raise the front end way up to make it easier to work on....
Without it falling and crushing me or the kids.

I have very few hours of riding with this machine. My second name is Squarerim due to all the flats I've gotten and the fact I've squared a rim. I found the Powerblock clutch was not good for me. It blew up anyways. And now I'm a stock clutch user. I don't need the extra torque that would lift the front end up on me. I recall a PA ride where I was stuck in a gully and the front end would lift as I tried to get going. I was trying to steer but as the weight let off the front tires I just kept getting deeper into trouble. Those teens sure had fun watching me..... Thanks Guys for helping!!

But I liked it. I could get the steering to lock if I was not careful though.

PilotNut maybe a better person to comment. I bought this from him.

Once I get this back and operating I'll have a better opinion.

I see your point on the front end lift... I am a control freak... driving wise I mean... if your tires up front are light to airborn there is no control...
minus the r & bp steering this looks alot like my new setup... I need to explore this more... I am sure you will like the stock setup with the works shocks... did you get them set up to litespeed's spec's

Well. My Works shocks are on the Odyssey FL350.

I had Works for the LT setup. And for now I'm leaving them alone and will include with the pile of LT parts.

I am considering new works OR over haul these. But, not until I have this running again and I've had a chance to ride again. Once the CC bill is gone then I can consider more parts.... But, wife wants/needs a new SUV/car.

Hmm I got a thought will FL350 Shocks fit a Pilot? I have Works ready to go for my second FL350 project.

This weekend I got to a lot of the Pilot work.

Removed the front bumper in order to remove the skid plate. Easier said than done.

Washed sanded and painted many parts.

Got into the steering and after a couple hours of persuasion I removed the rack steering.

Next steps will be to replace the steering rod. Its hard to tell wahts stock and whats not.

This is a lot more work than I was expecting. But well worth the fun.

and some more

and some more

yep looks to me like Steve copied this set up, and he just couldn't find the stilito or couldn't afford it... Hell he didn't even bother to search for a 10mm hiem So a guy wouldn't have to drill out the hard steering knuckle... Which by they way I am in need of a cherry knuckle if anyone has laying around... I think I will use the hiems I have when I get my stainless links remade!!! I don't like mine wearing so much with 20 minutes of driving on them...

yep looks to me like Steve copied this set up, and he just couldn't find the stilito or couldn't afford it... Hell he didn't even bother to search for a 10mm hiem So a guy wouldn't have to drill out the hard steering knuckle... Which by they way I am in need of a cherry knuckle if anyone has laying around... I think I will use the hiems I have when I get my stainless links remade!!! I don't like mine wearing so much with 20 minutes of driving on them...

He did a piss poor job of copying it, those bungs you see are steel tubing with nylon bushings NOT STEEL ON STEEL I forget exactly the clearance you would have to call hi performance ATV guy and ask but I think it was .060 clearance.

Nylon was used because it was no afterthought, its soft so it CANT JAM UP the material is too soft for it to dig in, its also design to wear out the bushing not the tie rod...

IMO metal on metal in this environment is just plain dumb.

I know someone that can make the nylon bushings for you if you change your design

Don't they make nylon lined heims?

Was pretty sure they did, may not be thick enough nylon though.

Yup the liner is between the outer ball not the inside, I never seen a hiem used like this before where lateral loads were applied or sliding force was implied, I am not sold on the idea, even with clearance it looks like it could lock up under the wrong conditions, I am all for inventing new stuff but this looks dangerous to me, after beating my Pilot all these years http://pilotodyssey.com/hosertrip.htm and seeing the underside of my Pilot and all the dings and dents from the beating I would not leave my shop with a setup like that.

Their is already BETTER ideas engineered out their, no need to reinvent the wheel, look at any radio controlled car or truck suspension and steering, go to walmart and start looking under the cars in the parking lot at their steering, skip the front wheel drive cars.

Where is Lee I bet he has a better idea, I am a suspension and steering moron.

You can get some wood and trial and error your setup, prototype real fas with wood, if it works ok then duplicate out of metal.

The ATV Racing bump steer is an example but I don't like adding all the extra hiem joints to the tierods soon as they start to wear all that wear adds up fas to lose steering, its a maintenance nightmare but that's better than a tie rod locked up in a hiem.

Yeah, you're right, that was a stupid thought, I have a box of the nylon lined ones in the garage for the buggy links.

Tapped the steering shaft out. Was a lot easier than the manual will tell.

getting closer...

Make note. Don't paint the shaft as much as I did. Its a bear to drive the shaft up throught he lower bushing.

From what I can tell the steering shaft column on my Pilot was cut shorter.
As stock steering shaft is too long to fit correctly. I think the top was cut to allow for more arm length maybe?
I do know the rack's steering rod was cut and a new fitting was added. Look slike a stock shaft modified.

In any case I think I will just cut a piece of pipe to make an upper collar. Other wise the shaft will creep downband it screws up the tie rod travel.

MORE

But with the macro lens on the camera

some more

The consensus is that the lower end was chopped.

I hammered the shaft down and made the steering wheel fit right.

I will either replace the steering column or just add a pipe to compensate.
In either case I need to bang the shaft out and start again.

No Worry this is what it is all about!

Bob