Hi, I just acquired a new(well new to me) 1984 fl250. It appeared to be ALL stock except for a goki starter kit. I got it in trade for fixing the guys trailer(needed major welding). anyway he said he got it 8 years ago from the original owner. it been garaged most of the time and taken upstate to his property to ride most weekend over the summer for the past 8 years. all he said he has ever done was have a shop KREEM the tank because the rust was pluggin up the filter. the thing ran great and had plenty of power. BUT seeing all of the horror stories here I decided to strip it and check everything before I kept riding it. First thing I noticed was the wiring near the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) was all hacked up and the goki wiring was done real shoddy. soldered everything shrink wrapped and taped the harness, good as new. noticed the stator wiring was near the exhaust, almost melted through one of the wires, I will have to fix that. So I decide to pull the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and check it out. Great compression! look through the exhaust port, WOW piston installed backwards. the ring end gaps should be over the intake (im pretty sure), Im surprised they didnt get snagged on the exhaust port. cylinder looks good no scoring. someone port matched the exhaust manifold and did a nice job raidusing the port edges. so when the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was rebuilt someone took care (just not enough care). When I took the starter off, someone drilled out the holes to 5/16 and used american hardware instead of the proper 6mm bolts. one of the tabs that the bolts went through on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) now has a crack I think it will all have to be re-welded then drilled and re-tapped. Also noticed the Engine case has been cracked and re-welded before. At least that looks like it was done properly. Ill keep updating. I have a couple pics(cell phone sorry about the quality) . will have to get some more.

is that green wire the ground? is it melted/cooked..?

Good catch on the piston in backwards cant wait to see whats inside hopefully its in good shape.

Yes the green wire was cooked, it was too close to the exhaust. the others survived. the odyssey looks like it was taken care of. the last owner said all he did was drive it. the exhaust had almost no carbon in it. same with the exhaust port, very clean. ill tear into it soon,

Hoser - I have a question, I have a spare cr250 cylinder and wanted to use it and I also have a new oem cr250 1mm oversize piston. the piston fits into the cylinder but very very tight, I don't want to put the whole piston in since it was so tight. If it almost fits in can it just be honed to size or does it need to be bored, how much can be honed? what clearance should I run and should the oem piston be drilled for the bridge or is that only a wiseco thing?

were you thinking of using the Cr cylinder on the fl250?
if so what year is the cr cylinder?
and for what year cylinder is the pistom?

just for my information
thanks
OMO

You would need to first verify the bore was straight and round then it might be possible to hone to fit the piston you have but it should be honed with a ridged hone not a flex hone, a flex hone will just follow any imperfections in the cylinder and will not keep the bore straight due to the ever changing tension on the flexible wires.

I would drill the holes in the piston and relieve the exhaust bridge on any Engine that has a exhaust bridge.

Any detail pics of the cylinder you want to use?

My other odyssey has the same cylinder, its a standard 73-74 cr cylinder I wanted to use, casting flaws cleaned up and the exhaust port matched to the manifold. no other porting done. I bought it as a spare awhile back, and after measuring it I bought the piston. piston is a oem 1mm oversize for the cr250 (71mm). Im still looking for a intake manifold for the cr cylinder. they are not made anymore and I do not have another. If I cant find one Ill have to make one. If I use the cr cylinder Ill use it with the spare DG radial fin head I have. It has a little pitting on the dome but worked fine on my other odyssey before I switched to a DG watercooled head.

What should the piston/cylinder clearance be with a stock cast piston?

check your ring pins and the front ports - if it is a 87 cr250 piston the ring pins are in a dangerous place and you need to watch them closely.

just my opinion

OMO

No its a 73-74 cr250 piston. I bought it awhile back as NOS on ebay for $10 with the rings and pin. I knew I would use it sooner or later.

so it a honda piston?
what is the honda number

could you post a picture of the piston please

it is a honda piston (ART), I bought the piston a couple years ago, the box was falling apart and crumbling I threw it away I don't have the part #, but at the time I checked it online and the #'s matched. next time I take pics Ill take some of the piston. it looks just like a stock fl250 piston except with thin rings like the wisecos have

its been awhile and the odyssey is almost all put back together. besides the piston being in backwards, the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was very nice and clean and tight inside. I did a leakdown before I took the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) apart and it was fine. there was a nice piece of cylinder missing right above the exhaust port where the rings(which were facing the wrong way) snagged it. there was no scoring in the cylinder or any damage to the head, the piece must have gone right out the exhaust port.
I had my local shop hone out a spare cr250 cylinder and installed that with a oem 1mm oversize piston. the crank seals looked new and all the bearings were good. so I reassembled it with the cr250 cylinder/copper gasket(the exhaust bridge was relieved and 3 holes drilled in the piston). I used a DG radial fin head as well. I took pics of the whole process but I lost the memory card for the camera. I did some modifications to the airbox because it was a restriction. I was using a stock 36mm cr250 carb and the carb outlet was 2.5" and the bottom of the airbox was only 2" so I removed the stock pipe coming out of the bottom of the airbox and replaced it with a 2.5" tubing. the biggest improvement is the inside of the box. I hammered the tubing until I made a velocity stack to straighten the incoming air. It should breath much much better now. I also added an extra funnel tube to the side of the airbox from a spare airbox I had. I also noticed honda misspelled exhaust SYSTEM of the airbox lid they spelled it SISTEM. I took pics with my phone of the airbox mod. I hope I find the memory card with the other pics. I also installed a 102c clutch on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and spaced out the stock rear driven with 1/4" of spacers so I can use the wider 1 1/4" belt for the comet clutch. I also installed a 32 degree cam and much stiffer green spring. so far I just started it a couple times to heat cycle it and break in the rings and took it for a small spin in the driveway for 2 minutes. This odyssey has more power than any of my others. not even 1/2 throttle and it furiously spins the wheels. besides that I just cleaned up the wiring(it was a spliced mess) its all soldered/heat shrinked and wrapped in electric tape. I re-wired the goki kit with a key switch so I have a little security. I also removed all the goki wires and am waiting for a regulator rectifier to properly replace their hack "yellow wire" diode system. their charging system is a joke it provides half wave rectification at best. I floated the ground from the lighting coil so I can install the reg/rec when it comes. should provide much more power for maybe some more lights.. I also made a custom battery tray to hold a tractor battery( the tractor battery is cheaper and more powerful) the stock goki battery tray holds a tiny battery barely big enough for the starter in the cold. Ill get some pics of the other stuff in a day or two. heres the airbox pics.

looks good

here is a velocity stack


i wish i could aford a 38mm flatside to use with the vs.

OMO

that's nice. the velocity stack will help a lot. most of the turbulence in the intake was from that straight pipe in the airbox. with a bigger pipe with the velocity stack the box is no longer a restriction. I liked the look of the airbox and wanted it to remain. Otherwise I would have done what you did. I wanted some protection from the elements as well.
I used to have to run with the lid off to get enough air and you could tell is was still choked up. with the extra intake snorkel and the larger velocity stack it works well. If you have a spare airbox, send it to me if you want me to modify it. I think your setup would look cleaner with it. I am using a 90 degree 2 1/2" elbow from siliconeintakes.com to attach the carb to the modified box. I think the boot was 16.99.

Just some more pics,
Odyssey is in pretty nice shape. The seat belt is not faded like others I have had, the guy said this was stored in the garage. nothing on it is rusty either. that big ass pipe is a kustom kraft. Unfortunately the silencer that was welded on was missing the end cap and the core inside. So I used a cr250 one I got off ebay, not quite a perfect fit but it was $8 shipped and in nice shape. Its much better than a dg pipe, especially for the cr250 cylinder. there is also a pic of my custom battery tray. If you notice I had to flip the coil the other way so the wire would not hit the battery, all the wires fit. I didnt have to extend anything. I also made a lexan cover for the goki starter. The pull start that came with it was missing pieces and useless, im not going to use it so I made a block off. I just cut it to shape and used a little honda bond. I also installed a led lights in the tail light(scavenged them out of a broken trailer light-free!). I have to get some pics when its dark. it is much brighter than stock.

If hoser reads this can you move this to the projects section.

Hotrod

I picked up a FL250 Engine with a Goki starter. I did not get any of the Goki wiring harnest. Could you go over what you did in the bold above?

Questions

What do ou meen when you said "I floated the ground from the lighting coil so I can install the reg/rec"

Do you have a part number for the reg/rec you ordered or used.

Will the stock goki diod rec. work if I just use stock lights and tractor battery?

Thanks Friend

I'll make a diagram for you in the next couple days. I have some spare goki parts as well if you are missing anything. I used a trail tech voltage rectifier/regulator. To use it you add another wire going to the stator. You remove the grounded side of the lighting coil and attach the new wire to that. Then both the original and the new wire go to the regulator/rectifier.