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 Post subject: Pilot tranny..kaboom!!
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 1:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 26, 2010 9:15 am
Posts: 156
Location: Columbiana, Ohio (Youngstown,Oh)
Well once again my young age and adrenaline push my pilot too far.. I was running the machine around the yard for about 45min and I relized it pulled really bad and I jacked it and only one tire would spin so I all day yesterday tearing the axles and suspension off..and I started spinning the cv cup on the right side and it would spin free from the other one,it was a really nasty grinding..somebody help me..should I pull the tranny? What do you guys thinks wrong?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
http://pilotodyssey.com/800reasons.htm

Splines on your axle is probably gone you will need a axle and final shaft ?

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=454


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 4:38 pm 
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Location: Columbiana, Ohio (Youngstown,Oh)
Should I pull the tranny out?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 4:40 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Pull the axles first confirm the problem but in the end I bet the trans will have to come out.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 5:31 pm 
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Location: Columbiana, Ohio (Youngstown,Oh)
How do I take out the cv cups?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 6:13 pm 
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Location: Chicago
ctucker333 wrote:
How do I take out the cv cups?

http://pilotodyssey.com/800reasons.htm

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=454


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 7:34 pm 
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Location: Columbiana, Ohio (Youngstown,Oh)
Is there any clips or anything holding the cv cups in?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:19 pm
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Location: Chandler, AZ
They have a snap ring that's why you have to use a slide hammer type puller to pop them out.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2868
Location: East Peoria IL
If its your final it will be hard to find a new one and it will not be cheap. Last I knew the inner cv joint was still available from Honda. Once you have it apart take some photos for us to see.

If you can find a final shaft I bet you will pay at least $400. The inner cup from Honda is around $250 I believe. Then you need seals for both axles. I think your best bet would be to look for a good used tranny and keep yours around for parts.

I would think if the splines were stripped enough for the stub to spin that the stub would just pullout by hand. You asked what held them in so I assume it does not slide out by hand. I'm sure anxious to see a few pictures when you get it apart.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 10:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 26, 2010 9:15 am
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Location: Columbiana, Ohio (Youngstown,Oh)
I don't think it's the spines because the left side works and the right side grinds...I drained the oil and not 1 flack of metal..so idk I'll start tearing it apart tonight..is there any ways to take the cv cups out without a slide hammer?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
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Location: East Peoria IL
If the splines stripped you would not see any change in the fluid. The fluid does not flow inside the final shaft. The grind has to be what's left of the spline rubbing on each other.

The slide hammer is the best way. If you pry on the case you will only break it.

So if it is not sliding out by hand and you get a grinding sound there must be some splines left. The groove of the circling is probably full of rust and shavings which is stopping it from collapsing into the groove. I would try to flush out the crap with wd40. Stick the tube in as far as you can and try it from all angles as you rotate the final. This may allow the circlip to collapse so you can get the stripped stub out. Then you will be able to drive the other side out with a large punch.

In my opinion it is easier to take the axles out when the tranny is installed in the frame.

It has to be the splines. There is nothing else there but a hollow final shaft with splines on the inside and two stubs with splines and a circlip in a groove at the end of each stub.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 4:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
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Location: Wichita ks
The final shaft concerns me as well as far as getting them. I see where I well need one or two in the near future.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
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Location: East Peoria IL
adnoh wrote:
The final shaft concerns me as well as far as getting them. I see where I well need one or two in the near future.



Whats happening that you will need to replace the final? Or are you just planning for a future failure?


I'm staring to sound like hoser - but all Fl400 owners need to remove the axles and clean the stubs and final and regrease at least once a year, and use the silicone like H designed to seal em up the best that you can.

anyone remember who the guy was that posted the video of a final getting the splines cut into it, that he was having machined??????


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3636
Location: Wichita ks
Time man, just time. I change mine before damage is done. When I replace the cups I replace the final drive or did. My last one is in the dcp ( my pilot)and the wife's will be in need of one soon. EZ and Stix have some play as well. Maintenance you say, I take mine out every winter if not sooner as well as remove drive and driven and take the load off the springs and let them relax not to mention all the other item I do for winter storage/post ride. I do not silicone them I just clean inspect the splines and apply anti seize and re install. It's easier for me to clean and inspect with out the silicone. I post up some pics of the ones I have that the spline are thin and wore. Think about how much stress the final drive is put under every time you accelerate and break hard. The add play between it and the cups spline and the wear increases and the stress applied is greater due to the distance increase between splines now add a set of paddles higher drive engagement rpm which is an increase in load. Well you get the idea.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
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Location: East Peoria IL
seems like you never hear of anyone having trouble with the outer splines, but they take the same kinda forces as the inner. Just a thought. The outer is sealed up much better then the inner for sure.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3636
Location: Wichita ks
Great point. Mine has play and so does a few others. It does seam that all failures are in the inner cup stripping out. Wonder if Honda designed it that way or if the cast hub are stronger and wear better.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2868
Location: East Peoria IL
Lee - you got any thoughts on this?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:22 pm
Posts: 2641
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, Ca
So I just started reading this thread and was a little confused, so I made a picture to help me visualize what is going on here. Let me know if I am close.


Attachments:
Pilot Tranny Kaboom.png
Pilot Tranny Kaboom.png [ 285.23 KiB | Viewed 2520 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:19 pm
Posts: 2245
Location: Chandler, AZ
nickRNR wrote:
So I just started reading this thread and was a little confused, so I made a picture to help me visualize what is going on here. Let me know if I am close.



Quack
Creep
Cocaine


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 2:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2868
Location: East Peoria IL
LMAO!!!!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:20 pm
Posts: 793
Location: Joliet, Illinois
That is some funny shite....lol......... nick, do you write for "Family Guy' in ur spare time?...lol


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Rusty pose for the tranny pic?


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