Yes,and it's more cost effective for me to just to buy the whole block.
When the PTO bearing went,not only did it do the crank,but also piston,cyl and head.
By the time I buy all the necessary parts,gaskets,shipping etc might as well just buy a complete block and start out with everything new.

Just realised why I can't sleep at night anymore,Fug meeee!

While waiting on my new short block Polaris 800 from Utah,thought I'd remove the VForce3 reed PETALS....easy peasy I thought.......yeah right!
Says they are tool less design,but could'nt find anywhere info on actual reed petal removal technique.
Finally found that they use a white plastic rectangle sheet/plate thingy to spread apart the internal/outer cage to disengage the internal section.
Then you need a narrow screwdriver to pry out the internal petals locking pins.
So for a TOOLESS system design,the screwdriver and special reed petal disconnect somehow are NOT TOOLS?
They should rename this a NUTLESS system?
I cut a piece of the same black HDPE plastic sheet I used for under skid plate,I got from a customer,to act as the spreader TOOL.
All worked out easy in the end...No broke back jokes.
Here's some pics if it ever helps others out.

more pics.

Its refreshing to see a set of their reeds that are not broke, split or chipped on the ends, hard to see in the pics but does that one reed cage have damage like its cracking or is that just the pic?

Just the pic I think,I did check the cage,but will check again in the morn.
If you look at the pic above your one,you'll see the one chipped end petal.
BOTH reed cages had the same position reed end chipped,top outer/upper.
I noticed that the outer and inner reed cages are at a slightly diff angle to each other.
The inner being more perpendicular to the flange base,the outer is at a greater angle.
I guess it's 2 stage,the outer for low and inner for high revs?

I put a few red arrows in the area I see is damaged?

I don't see the chipped reeds in your pics you have more pics?
Wonder if the reeds when full open are hitting on something in the Engine causing the chipping?

No to the cage cracks,just slight molding marks.Shows up more and pronounced in digi pics.

I removed the petals again for direct comparisons with each other.Currently Sunday,sunny morn,hot humid,and it's Autumn(Fall)
You can see the chipped ones at the top,both cages had the same damaged petals,the upper,top petals,mainly 2nd from RHS.
Has got me puzzled,needs some explanation-investigation I feel,inorder to prevent it rehappening maybe?
Also to avoid "petal to the metal" Engine ingestion.

Were already in here when Diablo shipped the FL800 Downunder.
Wayne you know the history on these?Already installed when you got the Engine?
Ever dissasembled the petals before?

Just took some pics of the reed-case area internally.
Shows definate contact wear marks on both the upper case reed valve ceilings.
Good CSI advice whoser.

Note to self: Beer cans make great Engine props!

I wonder if a spacer plate,repositioning the reed cage outwards a tad,would solve this?
Dremel the ceiling area? Most prob have flow-on effects,sorry for the pun...no I'm not.

No wonder these reeds are getting a bad rapp on some Forums then?
Not necessarily the reeds material at fault,but the design of the cages,not allowing enough working clearance?
All the inner reeds are perfect.

Lol motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))! What's Carlton Mid??

Love the thumbnail art and the custom made Engine stand!

Randiestman

What's wrong with you blokes!!!!!!
This is a serious tech section,with serious questions,issues,that need to be explored,investigated,and hopefully solved!



I was wondering if anyone was gonna make the Carlton comparison,thought the same thing setting up the pic shot!
Trust you ObesePussy!
Carlton is a suburb in Melbourne,Victoria,east coast.
The beer is from there(DERrrr) and is a Mid strength beer,double hopped tho.Good for if ya wanna go all night and morning.

Randiestman,I have many,many Engine stands!
Enough to do all the Forum's engines,many,many times over!

More testing.
Using a mirror and simulating an open reed on the upper #2 reed RHS,the tip does come in contact with the case ceiling,but I can't see any wear marks exactly at that spot.
Previously I said there were wear marks,but now realise it's the cage's wear there,the reed tip is further in than that.
The cast alu surface does'nt appear to be too rough there,but might as well fine sand/polish it there just in case,can't hurt?
Possibly just touching it there enough at full throttle,to cause reed tip wear over time?But not enough to wear the alu case?

Smoothing the cases might help, but what happens if you removed 1mm yet the reed petal still wants to flex another 2mm its still going to hit, this is why I like the OEM cages with the reed limiters.

Reed spacer might help but here we go again modifying after market parts to cure design problems, were these reed cages tested with spacers how does the spacers affect the performance, are these OEM cages I know some mfgs used V force as OEM on some applications, if not, has anybody done any head up testing between the OEM cages and these then OEM compared to these with spacers heck you might be making less power than stock, just because you bought after market and spent big bux on the parts don't mean its giving better performance than OEM no doubt the psychological gains will be their and make your man hood stiffer knowing you have the "race parts" ...

What I would do again if V force is not stock for this Engine is find a set of OEM cages see if they have the limiters on them,, if they do install the stock cages it probably would not hurt to research the OEM cages to see what the parts life is like right now I assume like most other reed cages OEM last about 3x longer than after market does but since this is a Polaris I would research.

This Engine makes too much power for the application anyways so if the OEM cages did make less power would it even matter other than the blow to the ego and having to suffer the psychological losses of not having the V force 3 reed cages any more, maybe just keep the stickers?

Personally I would not want reed tips breaking off and going though my new Engine, hopefully the fragments of the reeds would just cycle through the Engine and not do any harm but you never know.

Hopefully your back up and running soon!
Zoom zoom

ZOOM ZOOM update.
Not much of an update,decided to go with JJ Machinery in Utah for the shortblock.
Not worth trying to do all the lil stuff yourself with all the postage cost$ etc.

Being where I am Downunder,and on the West coast,is a major PITA when you wanna get another Ingine
Did'nt know the core prices would be so dear and varied.
eg 1st call,Canada,$1,700 shortblock-$800 Core.
....2nd call,Shortblocks r us,Cali,$1,700 shortblock,$1,200 core!!! WTF?
Then JJ Machinery,$1,400 shortblock,and $499 core.
It gets better tho.
I do the Baz call thingy,(midnight my time)explain my situ on the core $,my isolation,shipping cost$ etc...can you help me out?
Then they come back with,$400 core($99 off),and $1350 shortblock($50off),plus only another $50 for used head.(not Lynda's)
They really do deserve some good praise/kudos.

Here's a pic Cara/Jeremy emailed me of my ready to post Polaris 800 Motengorine.

My baby's a commin'!


How I'll be feeling till bout' April 3! SEE RandiestMan,you pre-judged me!

Alright Bazmasterson......

Quit posting pictures of me on the internet!

Randiestman

Does it have the billet bearing mod thing on the end of the block?

Nope,that is from the Cali company,shortblocksrus.
I wanted to go with them for the support bearing advantage,but the overall price diffs were mega.
eg,Their shortblock $350 dearer,core price $800 dearer,and shipping unknown.
So that makes it $1,150 dearer! Nearly the price of another shortblock from JJ's.
JJ's in Utah also sold me a good head(not Linda's'! ) for $50,and fitted it up.