Ugh. One of the nuts that holds the cylinder jug on my FL350 is stripped. I tried heating it up, but there' just no purchase on the wrench and it's slipping making the problem worse.

Any ideas on where to start? I could probably get a dremel in there and grind a slot in it and try to knock it off with a chisel... I could drill a hole in one of the faces and try welding a rod onto it, but I don't like the idea of getting in there with a welder since I'm not all that good with it.

cut an slot in the bolt with an dremal and hit it with an chizel to see if you can get it to move

otherwise cut it threw to the stud on one side so you can split it open to move it


i would get one of these that wil fit it


its an nut splitter
harbor freight sell them

habe used them in the past they work pretty goot for breaking stripped nuts off

can you get vice grips in there? has worked for me in the past

I don't think there's room for a nut splitter or vice grips. It's pretty tight in there. I think it's dremel time. I can put a deep slot in it and work on spinning it off with a chisel. I'm not too worried about buggering the stud since Honda actually seems to stock them and they're only a few bucks.

Just chop it off if all else fails

maybe try one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-20 ... B000065CJ8

I got one there pretty crappy to say the least

I would use a die grinder or an air saw and carefully grind or cut down one side of the nut off to expose the thread then tap it around with a small chisel or centre punch .

Ah, the front clutch-side cylinder bolt.

Once you get 'er off of there, go buy yourself a 12mm/14mm wrench extension for your torque & socket wrench. Moose Racing, Motion Pro, etc sells 'em online and on evilBay. Its the only way to tighten this bolt to spec torque unless you customize a box wrench or socket.

Obviously the previous owner of your rig didn't have one and used vice grips or a crescent wrench.


Update: here's the evilBay link to the tool...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTION-PRO-TORQUE-WRENCH-ADAPTER-12MM-14MM-80134-TORQUE-WRENCH-ADAPT-/330776373886?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d03ceea7e&vxp=mtr

I have a 14mm crows foot that I'm planning to grind down the sides to fit... somewhere I have the torque conversion tables, but since it only moves the pivot about an inch I can probably just lower the torque a bit and be pretty darn close.

I drilled straight in a front face of the nut, working from 1/16" and worked my way up until I was at a bit the same as the stud diameter, basically taking the stud out

Remember to start high enough up on the nut so you don't end up cutting down into the jug as you move up in bit sizes

Also, don't poke through the back (at least try not to as much as you can) and damage the jug too much

Drill slow and steady, use cutting fluid, it should work pretty smoothly

Here is a calculator so you don't have to guess on adapter length variables, etc.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/rende ... egstraight

P.S. I'm pretty sure I got hat link from here somewhere, so thanks to whoever originally posted it

Seems like I saw a socket set at Home Depot or Lowes that had a spiral cut then was for removing nuts like that, the socket gets tighter the more torque you put on it, sort of a reverse easyout.

Success!

I can't imagine life before Dremel's... I cut a couple of slots in the nut and with a nice sharp chisel, gave it a good rap and it was off. The other 3 came off without too much of a fight (although the left rear one took the stud out with it).

congrats on busting you nut! now keep us posted on the rebuild

Glad you got it off they are sometimes hard to remove

Good job on the removal did the cylinder come off ok sometimes the dowels can get rusted and make the cylinder hard to remove at that time I usually take a soft blow hammer and tap up on the exhaust manifold then on the intake side of the cylinder with the reed cage removed striking the cylinder inside where the reeds go in the center and top where its reinforced, alternating from intake to exhaust then once its moving wiggle it back and forth between blows I have spent as much as 15 minutes removing stubborn cylinders from both Pilots and Odysseys always without damage.

What you NEVER want to do is pry them apart at the seams!

Another trick you can try to get a cylinder off is to put a length of small rope down through the plug hole and slowly rotate the clutch by hand.

Rand

Been their tried that has not worked yet you end up where your using the rope as a hammer and beating the rod bearings in the process I found if the rope worked you can usually wiggle them off by hand.

Your out in the desert so probably have better luck with the rope thing I am stuck here in the rust belt where water/mud is almost part of every ride followed by more water to clean up once your home some machines are even towed 500+ miles on a open trailer in the salt and by time you get home all the aluminum has that 'white rust' look on it Mike123 haha

What is rust? LOL!

You guys do get a lot of moisture out there. We get snow in the winter but if it rains in the summer its usually because of a thunder storm. Other than that is popcorn fart dry out here.

Rand

Shit it's amazing how much corrosion comes just sitting in the garage. I think it may be the humidity we deal with. The concrete at my dads sweats all the time. Been an especially bad year for that. Gonna be a late harvest with all this moisture. Oct. 1st I bet. We need some hot dry days. The farmers will be crying.

The concrete is earth coupled that's why the inside of my shop is about 70 degrees year round, the extra insulation I installed , long as the wife does not park her car inside in the summer when its 400 degrees and heats the shop for 4 hours after she turns it off then decides to go up town for 15 min and brings it back for another 4 hr heat soaking, with her parked outside I usually turn the a/c on 68 for a few hrs a day to keep the humidity down don't want stuff I store inside out of the weather to rust lol.

Parking inside in the winter is encouraged since its free heat

Plastic under the concrete helps a ton with moisture...

One of my friends put up a building a couple of years ago and they installed piping before they poured the concrete. Geothermal heating I think it's called. It was pricey from what he said but it works good. Its super nice to work on stuff at his place in the winter. The floor heats the place so you don't mind being the guy laying under the car. It's a nice setup I think. Not sure the efficiency but I'm assuming very good. I doubt my dads has plastic under the concrete. It's pretty bad. It always happens a few times every spring but its almost daily this year. He's been leaving a fan on. That does a lot to help.