Crappy first post here, but gotta do it! Finally have one of these and love it. Unfortunately first run seems to have cooked the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) since a good coil still no spark and all the wiring seems fine. I also searched and read a lot here (thanks for the tons of good info here!) and this seems to be the culprit since it has compression and fuel.

Thanks for any help!

Jeremy

OK I will let you know. Still chasing the problem and wasn't able to pull the stator to check wiring / key. Getting there. lol

Give us a little more detail on how it died.

Was it running then died?

Or is it that you can't get it to start again after you shut it down?

Try this, pull the spark plug and use the pull starter rope to see if you can get spark from the plug when it is grounded to the head. The starters on FL350's are prone to failure because they get filled with oil which causes which them to slow down and draw excessive juice, thus allowing for a very week or in some cases, no spark at all.

Rand

I read a lot of posts on here with issues and it has decent compression, plenty of fuel (has a mikuni sled pump works great and plug gets wet from fuel), and the electric start fortunately works fine. Also tried a bunch with the pull start due to hearing about the drain from the starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).

Had it out on the trails for the first run since it had been sitting for a couple years from previous owner. Fresh gas with Amsoil (he was running 50:1, but I like to be safe and run rich so it was 40:1). Was running ok other than obvious need of a carb rebuild and hit a nice section of WOT (Wide Open Throttle) on the trail and she started breaking up. Actually thought it burned up a piston. Then figured it was the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) and not so sure of that now because it started to misfire and gradually get worse so now it won't run. Was figuring the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) box would just completely quit if it went bad. Also per the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) note: I tried the test per the factory manual which I assume is measuring resistance between the connector pins? If so then mine was pretty far on a few from the factory settings.

Received my flywheel puller tool today so I can check the crank key which is my best guess that it has failed or is worn enough to make the timing screwy.

Thanks for any help and sorry for the novel. Trying to be thorough and not just throw parts at the machine.

What does your spark plug look like?

Rand

It was a little rich looking and of course I tried a new one.

That's the answer we were looking for!

Hope you figure it out soon.

Rand

Thanks! That was the first thing I swapped.

Actually messing with a Yamaha 225DR I just picked up because it wouldn't run. Guy wasn't too great mechanically and first thing I noticed was the nasty old plug. New plug got it to fire. Now to clean the carb to get it running (he cleaned it, but I think it is still plugged up.

Best way to test it is to unplug it from your rig, plug it into another know running FL350R, and see if it works. Generally, you need to have the exact same model meter the factory uses/used to get their readings.

I had the same issue on my Suzuki quads and got all kinds of different readings on 3-4 different good CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) boxes with my Fluke meter.

Heard that before, too. Never trust the guy selling you a vehicle. Everything gets sold for a reason, rarely ever because it runs perfect. lol

Yeah no doubt! Runs awesome now. Had to clean the carb and pilot jet was blocked (could tell where he attempted to clean). I think crap got in there then fouled the plug which he never replaced. Plus he said it idled really high which seemed to be the throttle slide didn't go all the way in the carb so used one from a parts machine he had and idles great now.


Hopefully my Odyssey is this easy to fix. lol

Yeah that makes sense. Problem is I need to find a running rig to plug my CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) into. Saw that in the factory manual about the tester as well. Hopefully within another couple weeks I can get to storage now that I have the flywheel tool and check out the timing. Really wish I already had a known good CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). Would make one test a lot simpler. ha ha

Thanks for all the help!

Solved! The case by the starter had a chunk taken out of it (old blown up stator? Blown up starter?) and doesn't leak or anything but it was obvious the pieces were rattling around and someone removed them. Seems they hit but didn't disconnect the pickup wires. One was broken off the pickup yet just barely touching so that was my problem for barely a spark. The stator worked, but has seen better days so I will just have to replace the assembly.

At least now I know what was wrong. Now for a dumb question: the flywheel key looks perfect but should I replace it anyway since it is apart? Also guessing just crank the flywheel nut back on for install? I downloaded the manual just not on this computer.

Thanks!