Tank has a good-sized crack in it - probably 5 or 6 inches total.

Does anyone know of a good product that will adhere to the tank AND permanently seal it?

What type of plastic is the tank made of?

how about JB weld, I think they include plastic. make sure to clean thoroughly, maybe rough it up with some 220 grit paper and do a final cleaning with IPA.

Do you know if the tank is made of polyethylene or polypropylene?

I was considering the use of a plastic welder to fix it.

where is the crack on the tank?

Goes along the bottom of the tank and then almost completely up the side with the rubber grommet. It's a big crack, but just a crack. I'm thinking about plastic welding it but I'm not sure what type of plastic it is.

I can tell you what wont work lol. I have tried 2 part epoxy before on the tab that mounts it to the frame with no luck. Try plastic welding it. that's what i would do

Plastic welding seems to be the way to go. I have looked extensively for some sort of glue-type product but have found nothing that just screams out that it will do the trick. I still need to somehow find out what type of plastic the tank is made of. I'll need to get plastic rods of the same type to make sure I get a good weld. The search continues.

Or you can get one from Summit for $6.97.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-603-001/overview/

Haha! You know, $6.97 for that tank is cheaper than purchasing the plastic welding rods! I could either mod the one from Summit or slice it into pieces and use the material to weld the crack in the OEM tank.

Thanks!

What's the volume needed for the Pilot overflow tank? There are several out there but make sure you have the needed volume.

Rand

Oh looky here: http://www.amazon.com/Weapon-R-826-134- ... sbs_auto_6

And it's purty too. Bookmarked!

this one looks prettier
http://www.amazon.com/Weapon-R-826-111- ... sbs_auto_7

Yes I saw that one too. However, what is up with the two hose attachments up on the top? Isn't that model just for overflow? I chose the other one because it had the attachment down low that would allow the radiator to siphon coolant into the radiator instead of just dumping overflow into the reservoir. The hose up high is to expel coolant in the event that the tank fills up (at least that is how it works in the stock tank).

Now, if I could find one with the proper hose setup, AND that little site hose on the side to check the fluid level, AND a spiffy red cap, that would be the bomb!

Does anyone know how important it is to have the tank mounted at a lower elevation than the radiator? Could the reserve tank be mounted higher than or parallel to the radiator? It seems to me that, in most automobiles, the reserve coolant tank is mounted parallel or higher than the radiator.

My vote would be for the plastic welding.

I don't think the elevation would matter long as their was a uninterrupted supply of coolant from the radiator to the over flow, the Pilot works the same as a auto, fill the system then allow the bottle to control the level in the radiator, you only add coolant to the over flow bottle and check the level at the over flow.

With each heat cycle coolant will move to and from the over flow to the radiator and back when the Engine cools after each heat cycle if it needs more coolant in the radiator it sucks it in.

Thanks hoser, that's what I thought.

I'll give the plastic welding a shot, but the crack is at least 6 inches long so I'm thinking it will never be as strong as it used to be. That's why I was also looking at alternatives to the stock plastic tank. I sent off an email to ATV Racing to see if they had any coolant reservoirs but I never heard back from them. Haha, love the customer service!

I used a Raptor tank.

Ive used the raptor tank as well, good fit and good look. Heres an aftermarket tank for the Pilot http://www.ebay.com/itm/380662568303?ss ... 1438.l2649

That's the one atv racing just started making the lid looks like crap

that's a plug like you would use in a boat bilge. Theres gotta be a better plug for it.

There is its called money

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Weld-F ... vi-content

I have a spare laying around if you did not buy 1 yet I think.

I have not bought one yet. I'm in the middle of my 3rd cycle of chemotherapy. In fact, I'm sitting in the Mayo Clinic with an IV in my arm as I type this. I might be interested in purchasing your spare, but I'm going to look into some of those other options first. At least I know that there are several solutions to this problem.

Chemo is over. I am in full remission! Almost time to get back to the game of life. Unfortunately, as a result of the chemo, I'm dealing with several pulmonary emboli (blood clots in my lungs) and will be on blood thinners for 6 months. I swear, if it isn't one thing, it's another. Anywho, the reason I'm updating this thread is because I discovered a great product that I thought you guys might be interested in.

After extensive research I found a product that worked like a champ on the coolant reservoir. It seemed too good to be true but the stuff works like advertised. I would highly recommend this product to you all. It works on plastic, rubber, metal, and god knows what else.

It's called RapidFix.

http://www.rapid-fix.com/

Some video demo's of the product in action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSmgEkbp5eM

The tank is sealed up and the weld appears to be EXTREMELY strong. Cost me $20 for the adhesive kit (and I still have 75% of the ingredients left) to fix a basically priceless coolant reservoir tank. Now I don't have to buy the aluminum one from ATVRacing!

I was able to find it at Pep Boys, not in the adhesive section, but in a display located back at the parts counter. Best $20 I've spent in a long, long time.

Congrats on your recovery, glad to see you are getting back in the "game'..

Sounds like a good product, thanks for the product review....

i have been using the stuff called Q bond for years basilly the same concept just will dry out ?