chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports makes their own headS

I had one for my last Odyssey
kind of a shitty design IMO

Here is their Contact number..... 661-399-4907 (HOME) 661-747-5796 (CELL). Call and ask! I am curious if they are making them or not now. Their address is 11131 Nord Avenue in Bakersfield Ca. The only reason I remember that is I used to live in Bakersfield.

You mean I could have claimed that I have been making them all along?

Rand

hey you could have been making we will never know

all I know if you ever did you be running one on your Odyssey instead of the hillside

The guy is kindof an ass when you call him. I called him somtime last year looking for an FL350 honda piston, and he basicly told me he didnt want to deal with me unless i was spending thousands of dollars in parts.

what a dick

And you guys want me to call him after you post this

Thanks for all the help boys I do appreciate it.
Doesn't look like anyone making them at the moment.
Not sure of my options here yet. Make my own from scratch? Troll evilbay?
Buy a $2000 tig?

Even with the tig welder it's not a 100% guarantee that you can weld it

Just tried again last night to weld the head and to no avail it wouldn't weld at all and it was sandblasted cleaned with acetone and preheated so I'm done messing with this one as well

Some people say have it ultras sonicly cleaned

I have had some Honda castings weld fine then some won't weld at all it's hit and miss


So like I've said before rotax easer in the long run
You'll love the power


If you go for a tig welder get a miller if ya can
Next machine I plan on getting is a dynasty 200 or a syncrowave 200 like the dynasty better just don't like the price of them

Granted the TIG machine will come in handy on all kinds of stuff in the future. But if you were willing to burn $1000-$1500 to buy a machine just to spend a lot of time learning to make a l/c head & jug, you might as well just pay someone a gross amount of $'s to make a couple heads. OR go the Rotax conversion route, then you won't run into the parts availability issue and will have a lot more power. And if you do go the TIG route, spend the money on a good machine, not a junker.

I've got an @ftershock l/c head on my #1 FL350 buggy and its been pretty solid and reliable for me. Also have a A/M bore & piston job on it (piston lube holes, edge cleanup & PTFE dome coating + 80mm bore & bridge relief). I only get a chance to make like 6-10 rides/yr that are only ~2hrs long, but no problems, no leaks, nothing. This buggy has treated very, very well. It will be coming off and getting replaced with the Hillside head and jacketed jug I got from "Bill" in Florida, so I'll be able to see what the studs and interior looks like on the @ftershock head. The A/M head won't be for sale, as it will trickle down to one of my other "I'll get to it before I'm dead" FL350 projects.

I bought a rand head from the guy in Bakersfield and I've run it at 95 deg full sun for a 8 hr day and NEVER had a leak or Any other problem. HiS wife on the other hand shipped my head to another guy with his head so it took a little longer to get it. I wish speed or someone else would reproduce his head for less
Or create a cool head for the 350. I would probably buy 1 or 2.

The afterthought head is a backassward design has O rings seating on threaded rod look at a Rand head and you will see what I mean by the design, you can add a removable dome to the Rand head design also but they seem to go many years without a changeable dome.

I have seen many changes in the Honda casting material between engines some seems clean and tight others seem really porous so much so you cant clean the cases the dirt just bonds to the aluminum oil and grease you can wash off its like they are stained with mud or anodized with mud lol

From what I am told welding with a quality tig you can float the shit out of the weld zone it will float to the top of the weld puddle my tig has a setting to adjust for the amount of cleaning you want in the weld zone, mig can only do so much.

Knowing what a pain the ass it would be to weld up the cast aluminum, I have often thought about a quality bonding epoxy, etc.

For instance, whatever epoxy has been used by racers for years to reshape transfer ports obviously sticks well, I just don't know if it would bond two separate parts very well

If my Engine blows up after the rebuild I was even going to try and JB weld a jacket for shits and giggles

Don't laugh at the JB idea. I used to race a formula sports racer car. The intake tubes on a peripheral port rotary Engine are JB welded in place. I had no issues with it for ten years. Keep in mind though that is intake tubes, where there is cold air running through all the time.
Thanks for all the info on the tig units. It appears others are having the same issue I am and you are using a tig.
I like to tinker and am not afraid to experiment. I am in no hurry here as I bought these for a project. I don't wana go the rotax route because of all the other costs involved. Namely buy two used sleds $$$, then buy two fuel cells $$$, axels $$$. You get the idea. I do like the rotax units I have seen on this site but I really wana make the stock stuff run.

Cool car Oddy.

My wife had a ford windstar, there was a heater tube thingy that rusted out in a really bad spot. I threw some JB on it just to get through the winter and ended up never touching it again. Never leaked, I thought for sure the vibration would have popped it off, but it didnt. Went for at least a couple more years before junking the car.

OK. I'll confess.....

I have JB weld on the side of an aluminum radiator to plug a small leak!

Rand

Had some success tonight welding on the head. Here is a photo.
All I can think of is that the aluminum piece I added supplied enough extra to the parent metal that I didn't have as much problem with the weld like I did when I just tried to weld on one of the fins. When welding on the fins alone it gassed off bad and the welds were full of holes. No doubt there are probably inclusions in the weld but it does seem to be ok. Gona try more tomorrow late at night after the trick or treaters are gone.

That's good you got some progress done

You may have a pin hole or two, but hopefully nothing some rad leak-stop can't fix.

Are you going to weld-in fittings? I'd recommend welding the bung in only so you can replace the elbow/fitting if it should ever get damaged. Seen a lot of "cool heads" with flattened or chipped outlets!

How true / perpendicular is that core you welded in? Could you chuck that piece up on a lathe, turn the OD down and then get like a 8" or 10" or 12" piece of aluminum tubing to just fit over? Like a piece like this here could cover like 4-5 heads and jugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-OD-X-32-L-X-3-8-WALL-6063-ALUMINUM-ROUND-TUBE-PAINTED-WHITE-41-/300753054475?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4606476b0b

Now your cooking, you try preheating the head in the oven before welding?

Not sure about the fittings yet as that is to far away for me right now.
No I didn't preheat, just wiped with acetone and brushed with stainless brush.
Seemed to work well. You might laugh but I am actually thinking of buying a block of ice to
put the head on when I weld up the the main piece. The reason being is that I don't want
to warp the head when welding.

Give this a try Mig welding aluminum Take your old Finns and try to weld them in the FLAT

First get a cutting torch turn on the Acetylene and light it so its all black smoke and turn your parts black with the torch on the side your welding

second bridge your part up off the table with some steel or aluminum rod so it has a small surface to the table

Third preheat your parts with torch with a good blue flame in tell all the black is burned off the aluminum

Forth start welding you will have to play with the setting on the welder you get it right

Please note I did not read this whole thread

NOTE This is for Tig & Mig Welding used aluminum . You need to preheat it.
It needs to be about 600f. this is about the time the black burn off or your spit bounces off your work piece
by preheating this will burn out the oil in the pores on the aluminum . If you see a lot of oil coming out of the pores preheat it let it air cool the heat it up again.



For welding aluminum you will need to run 100 % Argon gas Or a 75% helium 25% Argon Helium is for thicker cross sections above 1/2" thick
this goes for tig welding also. Any gas with co2 will make a dirty weld on aluminum


SpeedChaser

Some updated photos. This is more work than I thought. It's taking time.
Plan on welding it up solid and having plugs you can remove to get at the head
bolts so you can torque or remove. One hole will be used for water out and
another hole will be drilled n tapped on the other side for water in.

Lol nice

been thinking about having one of the guys at work help me make a copy of this

Looks good to me I like the idea of just having the plugs to access the head nuts good thinking, you might need copper sealing washers between the nuts and the head?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/flat-washers/washers/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8ogZ1z0w5de



Where did you find the large diameter aluminum pipe and how much?

I have a first generation 350 head here I might attempt to do the same as your doing you want to sell me the materials you used to make yours?

Nice work looks good