2nd cut at the very bottom of the exhaust side of the cylinder one small area here that I am not sure what caused it to be like this its not from piston wear perhaps happen during another poofkaboom in the past, part of a piston hit here or the rod made contact?????

Cleaned up fine in the end

After the bore cylinder was honed, deck lapped to ensure it was flat, studs reinstalled, then assembled.

The new cool head came with two domes I installed the larger 66cc dome, grease was used on the orings per instructions

The typical ATVR home made intake is used, the reeds on the Vforce looked really good shape.

Looks great hoser you do amazing work at fixing ATV racings mistakes. Stix have you replaced your radiator hoses?? It was something I over looked until it was almost to late. If you haven't talk to Afastcar and get your replacement hoses

Ill have to see what hoses I need, I have a precooler radiator so one hose will not be needed. Engine arrived safe and sound, ill keep the packing for future shiping needs.

Glad it arrived ok I am always worried about shipping, I think the key is to use a box they just can pick up and throw around easily seems the most beat up p[packages I get are those easy to pick up like plastic tubs with handles.

No oil in the balancer case make sure to fill it up then on your first cool down from the heat cycle check the level again, takes a while for the oil to circulate around the cases and get behind the balancer gear.

Ok well today will be heat cycle day. The crankcase is filled with oil. Plug gapped and coolant full. I installed the drive clutch.Ill also be filling the carb bowl with gas so i don't crank the Engine dry for any length of time. Anything else Im missing besides checking the compression and filling full of 91 octane/mix?

Well I had a few things come up so the heat cycles wont take place unitl next week. I did however get some compression readings. 140 lbs and then 145 with a capfull of oil dumped into the cylinder.

Hmmn.. I thought your number would be higher? What's your take.

I don't really know EZ. I cant find anything in my CR500 manual regarding compression. I always had problems with that Engine having high compression readings when I got the thing. It was 210 with ATVR's "race gas" head at first then with ATVR's "pump gas" head it was like 185. My fl350 after doing a top end would always read lower than what I would expect after a top end and they always ran well. Maybe Ill swap the 66cc dome with the 63cc.

What do you think Hoser?

Hell yeah try it that is the cool thing about the cool head all it cost you is time to swap out since it uses O rings and they are reusable.

Well good news, I installed the 63cc dome and it raised my compression to 155. So I think Im good to go. Just waiting on a radiator hose and then Ill begin the heat cycles.

Hoser do you know if the orientation of the spark plug angle(dome orientation) is important other than angling it towards the rider for easier spark plug changeability. I installed the 63 dome with the plug angled towards the seat, just like you installed the 66 and like the factory head. The instructions say angle it to the left of the ATV??

I am not sure how much affect the angle of the plug will have I assume it was angled for clearance on the bike frame?

that's what I was thinking.

I was wondering why compression so low with the Coolhead domes. I looked at some notes I had and found the head that was on there before the poofkaboom was 55cc dome and squish. Later I carved on the head a bit so that number might be a cc or two or three more. Hmmm.

Stock CR is 6.8:1. Should I be concerned with the Coolhead affecting my stock CR or will it be ok. I would think the design of the Coolhead is made to keep a safe CCR. However since the jug has been modified by ATVR that thinking kinda goes out the window. Maybe Im worrying about nothing. If this one poofs I could always go back to stock cylinder and let someone who know how to port do some light porting. I have an old spreadsheet for Corrected CR that Adnoh gave me with my head cc's, gasket inside diameter, top of transfer/exhaust ports to top of cylinder, bore, stroke, rod length etc. Anyhow these numbers can be put into this spreadsheet to figure CCR but I don't know how to make it work Screw it, if it blow again it blows, Ill deal with it then, maybe go with a 5hp Briggs & Stratton

I wanted to thank DBloudharley for doing some welding work to my my "new to me" pipe. It looks great and bolted right in. If your reading this Mark in Ponca thank you for the donated pipe. I had it ceramic coated by a shope here in town called Jet Hot. The guys there were square off dudes and have done 2 stroke pipes before. They have several different colors thay can coat and i chose the lightly polished aluminum color to match the silencer.

looks great.

Thanks. That PIlot came back up for sale in Katy TX. Buyer beware according to his Ebay feedback though http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Honda-Pilo ... 07&pt=ATVs

4 heat cycles complete. Had 156lbs after first and last heat cycle, now ready for break in

Weather is looking favorable http://www.weather.com/weather/tenday/O ... K0400:1:US

What kind of intake setup you have on your Pilot if you have the air box and dual intake tape off one intake for your first ride so you have a little safety margin and can verify jetting, only takes seconds to peel off a piece of duct tape

Yea its gonna be decent weather for break-in. Problem is my neighbors don't take to kindly to my pipe, lol. Oh I could probably sneak it out for half hour or so but if Im gonna burn a full tank of gas I think I might be pushing it. My plan was to head out to Little Sahara next weekend or the weekend after, maybe take my kid out ther for some bonding.
Heres my air intake set up. I havnt used it yet but at least I can close one or two of the valves if its a little chilly during jetting.
I bumped my main jet up from 178 to 182 for initial tuning, my needle is an EEG, I had so much trouble jetting on the last Engine I had to change the needle to get a richer mixture. So ill leave that needle in for now. Manual says use a BR8EG(NGK), for some reasone I was using a colder 9 plug on my last Engine?? Should I go back to an 8 on this one? The 8 should just get hotter to burn fuel off to keep from fouling right?
For break in I usually just tool around the dunes not going over 1/2 throttle and do this for a full tank. Periodically checking plug color. After a tank of gas I start jetting.

Hey HOser, I have coolant leaking out of the weep hole just under the water pump. Is that the mechanical seal?

Ill make a post in the Tech area to help others as well.

Update, had some time between ordering parts thought I would measure the squish. I measured from side to side instead of exhaust port and intake port, For kicks I might go measure the intake and exhaust side. Anyhow I measured .065 on one side and .063 on the other side. I measured twice and got the same results. I read up a little at the CR500 forums on squish clearances to see what those yahoos were running. .040 and .050 seemed to be the norm. Im wondering once I get the Engine "broke in" if that will change since the piston will swell some.