hey guys, iv been having a problem with my 350. well first my intake manifold had a large rip in it, bit for some reason it still ran good. but to be safe it took it off and put about 8 coats of liquid electrical tape on it and looked good. so I re-installed it and started it up. it ran like crap, so I just figured I would set the air screw ( the air screw was like 4 turns out from tight so now its 1.5 turns from tight) than we kept spraying gas into the carb so it would run so I could set the idle. with the idle set, I gave it a gas (half throttle or so) the it revved up SUPER high. I hit the kill switch and key but would NOT shut off so I pulled the plug wire and still would not shut off. the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was going crazy for about 30 secs but It finally shut off when I put my hand on the back of the carb and idled it down. (I almost needed new pants lol) after that I checked the intake boot and seen it must of cracked again but only like a drop or so of gas. any ideas?? the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is ok nothing bad happened im just scared to start it again and have it do that again and maybe blow the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). help me!

Yeah, you need to replace the intake manifold, patching it never works. Also do a leak test and find out if there are other air leaks that need to be fixed. And why did you spray gas into the carb? That isn't a very good idea either. Let the fuel run through the lines and feed the carb like it is supposed to.

I did that because it would not start with out it for same odd reason. it ran pretty good be4 I fixed the boot. after the re-install of the carb it wouldn't run. the carb was getting fuel.

Hence the name Dieseldirtbiker???

lol I knew someone was gonna say that haha!

You were spraying premix right?

yes, around 20:1

Well, if it don't run the way it is supposed to, then something is wrong! Do not spray fuel into the carb simply because it won't run, figure out why it won't run and fix it right.

Yeah that's what I'm gonna do. I just spraied fuel in it to prime it and to get it to start. I'm hopefully getting the manifold. I'm hoping that's the problem and gotta set the carb

Is it a stock carb with a choke? And if so, are you using the choke?

Don't try to start it anymore. If its not getting fuel, its not getting fuel. You know you've got air & spark, so focus on fuel (and air leaks)

When you pull the carb bowl drain plug, is there fuel in there? Clean the carb, making sure that every port can flow and that the needle valve and floats are moving fine. The carb may need a rebuild. Set the carb slide and then make sure the slide is getting full/free motion when you push the thumb throttle lever.

Do a leakdown test on the Engine from carb boot to exhaust outlet. Use 6-8psi air from a hand pump (not a compressor). It should hold steady for minutes without tailing off any or very, very little. If its leaking fast, use a spray bottle with soapy water and spray the sealing edges and crank seals everywhere and look for bubbles

Then with the plug boot off and carb re-plumbed, use the pull start to provide some crank pulse and check your fuel lines to see if/where you're getting fuel.

hey D$, yes the carb is stock from what I can tell. the choke seems to be working. if I do a leak down test, how do I seal off the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))? im pretty sure the problem was the intake boot. also I don't think the exhaust pipe is hooked to the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) all the way b/c some comes from the front of the pipe. The odyssey ran fine before I fixed the old intake boot even though it was ripped.

did you take the cap off of the carb? make sure you got the slide back in there the correct way. they can be put in slightly off and get hung all the way open or half open.

yeah it seemed to be ok. but to be safe I took it back out after this happened and put it back in. it went as far down as it could. by the way nitro sport, Iv seen that vid on youtube of your fl350 build like a million times lol. its lookin awesome!

The way my leakdown tester works...

1-1/4" PVC adapter with 3/8" threads on the ID. PVC adapter fits into the carb boot and then is clamped with the intake boot / carb clamp. Carb is off.

Air fitting threaded into the 3/8" thread

Connect the leak hand-pump / gage / check-valve to the air fitting

Spark plug seals the spark plug hole

Expanding drain plug seals the exhaust flange (pipe is off)

Pulse tube is sealed off with a piece of 1/4" stock and a hose clamp

All leakdown tester threads have a few layers of ptfe tape

Pump it up to 7psi and see what happens. If the gage drops quickly, you can usually hear where the leak is. Check all of your fittings and plugs to make sure your tester isn't the source of the leaks.

Places to check...both crank seals, intake boot, reed gasket, head gasket, base gasket, exhaust flange gasket, spark plug, case halve centerline.

Gasket seal surfaces on the cases might have rough spots from damage, old gasket material, silicone-homo, etc.

Main bearing play, crank runout/wobble, and/or rough crankshaft seal surface can cause crank seals to leak/fail.

Best if you've got the Engine on the bench. Can't see/reach everything very well with the Engine installed and all the peripherals blocking.

Once you've got all the leaks chased away, that gage should hold 7psi steady for many minutes.

Don't try to chase leaks away by over-torquing bolts to "squeeze" them out. Its a good way to strip threads and break stuff. Stick to the torque specs. Sometimes you just need to loosen the bolts, tighten to half-torque in a criss-cross pattern, and then torque to spec in a criss-cross pattern and it will seal better. You have no idea who or how the previous guy worked on the Engine.

thanks D$ ! ill give it a try