I believe the stock offset is like 5 X 1/2. Its hard to find an aftermarket or stock Honda rim that is close however I found a Honda rim that is like 3-3/4 X 1-3/4. If you order from a parts house you get 3 X 2, I think afterspurt has the 4 X 2 which is a little closer to stock but still not as close as the one I found, I would haveto dig to find out what ATV it came from.

Can you shoot a pic of the end of the hose that attaches to the hub, here is my ATVR set up. They have the stainless lines as well, maybe not ATVR lines and something that someone found that would work. Can you reverse the mount like on mine??

Thanks,

Using that document you gave a link to the one spare front bead lock would be 3x2 just like the diagram in the PDF .

The stock Pilot front wheel has no weld its all a one piece steel rim that they press in then spot weld a hub, if you follow the implied intent of the PDF you referenced then the stock rim would be about (eye balling) 5 x .5 YES the OEM rim is about 1/2" wider than the aftermarket crap.

When I get time I will remove all 4 of the bead lock rims and remove the tires and take measurements to verify the offset.

Now for the rear bead lock spare rim it measures 3x5.
The stock Honda rear again has no weld its all one piece spun steel but if you follow the intent of the document it measures 3x5.5 This again is eye balling from where the rim bolts to the hub.

The rear offset looks to be close to stock (within 1/2") other than the rim is about 1/2" narrower than the OEM.

Looks like the DT30K, the model should be on the back, some of the models vary slightly but have the same fundtions and programming... http://www.digatronusa.com/adobe/instru ... format.pdf

Just browsing the PDF I think that model records data, that way if you poof kaboom you can go back and playback where your EGT and RPMS were at "POOF"! Also you can swap the CHT probe with an EGT probe.

Thanks for the pics, I will investigate and take more pics in the next few days, this Pilot is on the back burner for a few days while I get caught up with some Engine work I need to get done first, I am thinking they just have them spun around the wrong way or at least I hope its that simple.

Thanks, when I get time I will find out the exact model, I need to pull the seat and firewall so I can see the pipe not even sure if it has a EGT probe or not.

Yep well good luck with it and let me know if you need any pics of ATVR's crap, its all over my Pilot, LOL

wow i was trying to help and you just fly off the handle, wow. what ever if banning me makes your day then go ahead

I am running a set of 4+1 offset wheels from Douglas. They are yellow labels and thick as hell at the bead. I know they are still a 1/2" off from stock but do help a lot. I did not have any decent front wheels so this was my only option. Only downside is that they are only available in 4/144 bolt pattern.

Before when I said the silencer was so loud it would make your ears bleed and that it had no packing inside I was wrong, it had a little packing inside, just not enough to be effective

When I repacked mine on a quad I bought a couple years ago it looked similar to that. I have a second buggy I'm working on and it was missing all the packing and the center was rusted in half.

Removed the front tires so I could remove them from the rims and replace with OEM rims, both rims has repairable damage on the backside but just along the edge one just needs tapped out with a hammer and sanded down the other needs a weld repair, not sure how this was damaged it got the crack but looks like an easy fix, weld it up sand it back down its one thing I like about the aluminum rims they are easily repairable, the crack was sealed with some sort of sealant and never leaked any air while I had it, I rather repair with weld.

Only posting one pic right now the other one is too fuzzy to show the damage I will post before after pics of the dented one later.

They had the brake lines installed wrong so I had to flip them over before the correct offset OEM rims would fit, whats wrong with the following pictures?

They had the drivers side brake line run where it was rubbing on the steering arm (pink arrows), they had a 1/2" flat washer installed under the nut that holds the tie rod on for some unknown reason and the nut was lose (red arrows) .

I have not studied the steering setup close on this machine but can the OEM tie rod ends be used rather than the hiem joints on the inner tie rods I think they might work easier and are sealed.

Anybody know if the pivot for the drag link arm has bearings inside (blue arrow)? Everything I have touched on this machine is completely dry as is no signs of lubrication on everything assembled, I even had a hard time trying to remove the screws for the brake fluid cover, anytime you remove them you put a dab of grease on the threads or fill the holes with oil, I fill them with oil before installing the screws I almost didnt get these screws out, I replaced all 8 screws so they are new.

Everything I look at needs attention this is a well molested Pilot by some very unskilled people, I spent 2.5 hrs repacking the silencer and fixing its associated problems, I had to remove every exhaust mount and change it because they had every one installed wrong, backwards, they used a bad mix of the wrong bolts to hold it together, the seller claimed that ATV Racing just did a recent top end on this machine you would think the "Pilot experts" would know how to install a simple exhaust system.

Someone forgot to put the crush washer gaskets in there

The drag links have sealed bearings in them, at least the ones I received from ATV do and all the atv pilots I have worked on have them. All atv racing pilots I have worked on the steering has been a mess on and way out of adjustment, both small tie rods have been right hand thread at both ends making adjustments a pain in the tail to do instead of a simple turn of the rod you have to take each end apart. I have also had to redo the drag link stops on all of them also. The way they have been adjusted made for very stiff steering and toe change was way out to lunch when the wheel goes up and down. I can see the front spring rate is beyond the galaxy on that machine, I am pretty sure it is 250 up front and I can see the front suspension is limited in a big way from to short of a shock and the shock mount they installed leaving it with at least 7 inches or more wheel travel a AtV racing pilot will never see. When you get a chance hoser remove the front shock and and let the suspension drop and move the arms up. 7 inch loss is a conservative number because the stock tie rods ends will not travel as far as the Vw ball joints will. With small fab work to change the top shock mount and a 18.8 eyeshock and spring change the suspension has the potential for at least 15 inches and using hymes for tie rod ends which cost about 100 bucks for the 4 ends. I can make you the tie rods for it. ATV took what could have been a great suspension and limited it just like honda did front and back. The potential is there in front, the rear is in the stock location just move 2 inches or so out with the arms you have giving a very limited rear travel that has been even more limited by ATV and most I have worked on the rear wheel has a huge bind in that position. to check for that bind remove the rear shock and see how smooth it goes threw the travel, it takes very little movement of the rods that goes from the seat area to the rear wheel to remove or cause a bind in the rear end, I am talking 1-2 turns of the rod, its that close to binding or not! Again the potential is there but not with the top rear arm or the shock hoops they installed but I will help you figure out spring rates to smooth out the ride, and make it far more enjoyable. great find hoser

Thanks again for the info I will try all this out I am trying to free up some time right now just for this, I need to clear a spot in my shop where I can start this project and get the whole machine on jack stands and go over everything, every nut and bolt.

Plan your work work your plan as I always say.

First on the list is to remove and sell all the stuff I don't want and will probably never use, I need to get the Pilot back to where it can be worked on and serviced with ease right now its a 1/2 day project to do something simple like change the balancer oil, reseal the exhaust, pressure wash the dirt off, with the racing nets, cage, body work its almost impossible to remove the spark plug, I read and clean my plug almost every time I fill the gas tank, I need quick easy access.

To restore easy access I have grown use to and proven that meets all my needs I will be replacing the top roll cage with a stock one, installing the OEM head net, stock seat, hoser skid plates.

The Engine will be removed and complete CSI will be done, at the least it will receive my standard hoserizing, new crank bearings, seals, gaskets, checked the compression the other day its 170 psi so a Speedchaser cool head will be installed to lower it back down some.

Axles will be removed and inspected, trans removed and inspected, bet the trans mounts are about worn out...

All 4 shocks removed cleaned inspected, correct springs ordered.

All the suspension removed, cleaned, painted, inspected, lubricated, modified as needed..

The same with the whole steering system..

Once I get this thing where I know its reliable and serviceable I can start to ride and evaluate it better

Right 3 crush washers missing http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 0-000.html put them on my list of parts needed, not sure why they did not install them, just the fact they didnt get reinstalled makes me question every thing that was done to this Pilot, I guess the excuse "well they didnt leak" could be used DUMB!

Guess it was a blessing that they installed the brake lines 180 degrees off and required me to remove the lines and discover they were missing, WHO would ever think to look for missing crush washers, I will be taking my powers of observation and attention to detail to its highest level ever on this machine.

Used machines are always a winding road of mystery, eh? lol

In my spare time I have removed the top roll cage, seat, skid plates firewall to expose the Engine for removal.

With the seat removed you can see the spooge stain on the firewall from the leaking exhaust system, the spooge is from bad jetting but moron that later Spooge was hitting the back side of the firewall then running around behind the seat.

Pipe removed you can see where its had a repair to the head pipe their is also another crack some place you can see where the spooge is weeping out the pipe, the bottom side of the end of the pipe is where gravity took some of the spooge.

I am not surprised to see the pipe cracked they had every single rubber isolator for the exhaust system installed 100% backwards the pipe was in a metal to metal contact with the FRAME where all the harmonics and vibration from the Engine is then conducted to the frame it was so bad it cracked the pipe then it was reinstalled so it could do further damage to the pipe and the frame, the first mount that attaches to the frame is cracked and broken off it will have to be welded back on while the Engine is out.

Crappy picture I know but can you see the two holes that was cut into the skid plate, no holes to drain the oil from the trans and the Engine balancer but holes for the frame tube and the disk for the rear brake to be beat to death.

Can someone please tell me what the purpose of the skid plate is and why you would disable its only reason for being installed on the Pilot?

In the past someone even welded a patch on it.

Maybe they cut the holes so the spooge from the leaking exhaust could drain?

I don't know anything about this brand of skid plate (ATVR plate?) but would assume at one time in its life it had spacers that spaced it down away from the frame to provide clearance?

This next picture is a real busy one, see the air screw that's the as found condition as you see it in the pic the only thing keeping it from falling the rest of the way out was its hitting on the vent hose, look a little closer, the wrong sized gas line is held on by wire the hose clamp that no longer works because its not the right size fuel hose is just their for looks, see the groove worn into the starter cable from NOT running the belt guard, if I would have tilted the camera up just a little more it would have captured the fuel/oil soaked electrical taped throttle cable to carb connection that didnt work.

The perfect fitting factory engineered rubber dust boot for the choke cable was left up 3" away from the carb inviting more dust/moisture into the Engine.

So much failure in such a small area.

I wish I made a video of me washing out the top of the carb slide that thing has been sucking dust and collecting dust probably since the carb was installed new, it was almost like someone dumped a teaspoon of dust into the top slide then installed the top of the carb and went for a ride.

All you have to do is find a piece of vacuum hose that fits tight over the throttle cable and use that to keep the dirt out, slide it up over the cable install the carb as normal screw the cap on slide the rubber vacuum tube down over the adjuster on top the carb and tight up against the top of the carb.

I have never seen this one before a rock trapped between the Engine and the coolant hose, no damage done but if left their long enough it could be.