It's a bit dusty but otherwise new...

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-atv-parts-traile ... 1006129807

You'd need to change the head since this was pre-recall. Is it worth $800?

Okay...I'll take $50 off. Where else can you buy a brand new FL350 Engine?

What's your address? I'll get you a shipping quote.

I wasn't critisizing just asking but I'm not in the market for a new Engine.
Thanks

Find me a reference for NOS Engine pricing and I'll be happy to adjust accordingly. Gotta start somewhere, right?

Personally I think anybody / you can ask any price you want for parts, machines, services long as your giving all the details you know aobut the parts, machines, services.

Do you know that Engine has the pre recall head on it?
Do you know their is a great possibility that is a re recall Engine and that its a used Engine with a unknown amount of hours on it.
How were these engines stored since it was removed open like in your pictures?

IMO your asking way too much for a bunch of unknowns, you can help yourself justify the price by pulling off the head and putting the piston at bottom dead center take detailed clear pictures of the cylinder walls so the condition can be seen, then put the piston at top dead center and take pictures of the rod and crankshaft so perspective buyers can see if their is any dirt and rust inside.

If I was selling this Engine I would at the very least pull the whole top end off so I could verify and validate the engines internals, take plenty of detailed pictures, you can tell by the pictures if their is any wear or scuffing on the piston and cylinder walls, I would also take pictures of the crankshaft rotating it so the pictures verify their is no rust or dirt on it anyplace.

If the Engine is NEW or near new low hour I would replace the mag side crankshaft seal, I would also ensure the exhaust bridge was properly relieved and drill the lube/cooling holes in the piston and reinstall the top end, I would bolt the head on snug tight without the new head gasket installed so the perspective new owner could change the head to the updated head.

After doing all this and the Engine proved to be clean, not rusted, low hour or a new take out Engine I would not hesitate to ask 800 bux for it.

IMO anybody that paid more than 300 bux for the Engine with all the unknowns and just going by your pictures and description would be a idiot, WHY well its simple Honda replaced, repaired and updated EVERY FL350 they sold this cost them THOUSANDS of dollars they only did it for a very good reason because their was some serious problems with the engineering and design of the original FL350s including the engines.

Installing and running this Engine is a huge gamble it might last 5 minutes or 5 years you cant see if their is dirt and rust in and on the crank and rod bearings without taking the top end off.

Their are other unkowns about the pre recall FL350 Honda Odyssey engines that's never been clarified or verified, I have heard many stories about these engines I was told that ALL the 350s were recalled and ALL the engines were replaced even if they were running perfect and the owner had no problems with them and ALL the recalled Engine were destroyed, also heard most the recalled engines were given away to trade schools for training purposes and most them after mane years made it back on the market for use or for sale.

I have also been told if the Engine was blown up they replaced the whole Engine with new, if they were still running they just changed the top end and kept the original bottom end installed.

The sources that told me ALL the engines were replaced said Honda changed the timing on the updated engines by cutting the flywheel key in a new location on the crankshaft so using the old pre recall crank would give the owner the old timing curve that was part of the Engine blowing up so easily so the poofkabbom issue would last the life of the pre recall Engine, I have never been able to verify this you would need a pre recall crankshaft and a post recall crankshaft side by side to verify this OR have two assembled engines verified pre and post recall engines side by side so you could use a degree wheel and verify the flywheel key is in the same location.

To complicate things even more others has concluded Honda just changed the flywheels and that is how they changed the timing not by the key in the crankshaft, they also apparently changed the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) box giving the timing curve and rev limiter an adjustment.

About 15 years ago I had a phone number at Honda that I called and the lady read to me what Honda did during the recalls this was suppose to be the official word what they did, she would not mail me or email me the list only read it over the phone, ALL these details of the phone call was lost when Kiowa the dumbfuck confiscated my old Pilot Odyssey website, maybe Lee knows how to contact them to hear the recall details again?

Again IMO ask 10 zillion dollars for your stuff but if you list it where people who know about these engines or stuff expect them to come forward and notify others, if you want to dump your unkown stuff on some unsuspecting ignorant buyer take it to evilbay and play your capitalism games and go to sleep telling yourself "its not my fault the buyer did not do the research" excuse

LMAO I have yet to see anyone ever rip apart an Engine to take pics of it in order to sell it. You can see by the pic of the piston in the top position that it has never been run. However, if a potential buyer asks me to do this before fully committing, I would be happy to oblige.

I find your last paragraph highly offensive!!!

No offense but get used to it if you want to post here. Im not trying to be offensive here but other forums let you post just about anything with no one to monitor what is being posted. Hoser police's this site in order to inform the buyers what to look out for before purchasing to keep the unsuspecting or "uninformed" users and readers from getting screwed. Not saying you are giving bad info but there are a lot of unknowns with that Engine and Hoser doesnt want someone on this forum to think they are going to be able to drop in this Engine, run it and have it last as "new". You mentioned why take the Engine apart to sell?? Everyone who buys NOS parts for cars or ATV's knows that those parts are just that, New OLD Stock,NOS parts whether it be bearings and/or cranks can develop "shelf wear" (rust), the protectant Honda put on the bearings and pins wears off over time and humidity take over. Obviously you don't want to run the Engine with ANY rust on the bearing races, balls or pins. If you were to take it apart and show the buyer there is no rust you will get more money. Or just wait for that buyer to come along who doesnt know any better.

Yep most people who are trying to screw others would be offended, I have yet to see a single open and honest person get offended at such advice, were talking 20 bux in gaskets and 1 hr of your time but its your Engine do what you want after all you have nothing to hide.

I gave my best advice based on experience if someone wants to buy a unknown Engine and pay too much more power to them.

Here is an example that comes to mind, a Engine sold to another member of this community, it was sold in good faith and bought in good faith, lucky for the buyer he didn't waste his time installing and trying to run this unknown undocumented Engine. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3402

FYI as I explained in great detail before the condition of the Engine can NOT be determined without removing at least the cylinder.

I find your last paragraph highly offensive!!![/quote]

Man, I kinda felt bad about my original post. Lots of guys post links to things they see for sale that others on this site might be interested in, so when I saw the link to your Engine I didnt realize it was YOUR Engine. Well I just came across your original post from when you 1st joined and were looking for advise because you didnt want to make a bad purchase or get taken. Hoser offered excellent advise and insite into the problems and pitfalls of the pre-recall Odyssey's and im sure you used that wealth of knowledge to leverage a great deal when you bought your odyssey.
However, instead of paying it back and forward by offering your NOS Engine to the group with full disclosure of the information and warnings that both Hoser and Stix offerd you originally you just omitted this information completely. You know it has rust, you can clearly see it in the original picture's you posted after bringing them home.

Im relatively new to posting on this forum but Ive been watching and reading about these guys for four years now and one thing is certain, these guys will go the extra mile for a fellow member they can trust or shut you down hard if your a scoundrel. Correct me if im wrong Hoser but this site is not about commerce and profit, its about friendship and the common interest and love of these machine and sport. Treat the group the way you want to be treated and you wont find a better bunch of guys and endless good advise.

Go ahead and tell me that it's in rotten condition... LOL

Just a quick wipe to take off the factory preservatives. No internal rust.

I was bored so I cracked it open.

ooo shiney :D looks good to me. id run it lol. does anyone have any specifics of what it would take to bring this Engine up to the post-recall specs? not that im in the market for a stock Engine but just curious. i know the heads are different but there has to be more than just that or honda would have just changed the heads out instead of the entire Engine.

I'm considering getting the exhaust bridge relieved and the piston drilled. I have a shop lined up to do it. I have three engines to get done, the one on the buggy, my spare Engine plus this extra. But then again, I should keep them all...no worries for the next 20 years... LOL

It looks new never run to me their are some scratches on the cylinder wall and the piston from dirt entering the Engine then the Engine being rotated.

Can you measure the bore to see what size the bore is this the 78mm or the 80 mm version?

Definitely do the exhaust bridge work.

Looking at the exhaust port from the inside of the cylinder the match of the exhaust port tunnel to the exhaust manifold is not even close?

The exhaust port doesn't look pretty...that's for sure. I guess the factory makes the minimal effort. I would think it's the 80mm version...let me check.

I was going to buy it ...before you took it apart!

Just kidding .....good luck dude.

First Engine I've ever cracked open. Quite proud of myself...always been leery of going there. Kinda like heart or brain surgery!!!

Not exactly the most accurate measuring tool but you get the idea. No, the piston isn't wider than the cylinder!!!

Withdrawn. Having the bridge relieved and the piston drilled.

The pistons are tapered and bigger at the bottom measure their you will see, they are also not round they are 'cam ground' the taper and the oval is so the piston is round when up to operating temps and everything expands