Well I got screwed on the cv shaft I ordered. The seller gave me a fake tracking number and then over a week later he refunded my money and said when he went to ship it he didn't actually have the shaft. So I will attempt to contact a cv axle dealer and see what they have to offer.

well that sucks

Ok I finally got some good specs here on a axle I believe should work. Thanks to the fine people at American cv they were very helpful. I went ahead and ordered a pair from them. I will have to ether modify a set of hubs or build my own to get back to the 350's bolt pattern. The outer splines are only 20 spline vs the 350's 24. I found banshee hubs are the same 24 spline. But now ill have to rethink my hubs.

I'm looking for a final drive shaft for the transmission if anyone has a extra please let me know

i might

ill look later

Ok thank you.

The axles came today. They look good.

Got my petcock today. Its from a margay gokart or at least that's what its listed as. It's 1/4 pipe and duel 1/4" barbed outlets. The fuel tank is being built I hope to have it Friday.

Which Polaris Rgr model are the axles from? Must be something smaller than a 700cc? Everything I've looked at for the RGR & RZR & Sportsman 700-800 is 26-spline outer.

the axles i bought are 2013 ranger 500 front shafts. the rear shafts that i found had a much larger splined end for the differential. the outer splines are slightly smaller than the inner but i don't think this will be a issue. plus id rather the weak point to be outside of the gear box. i guess we'll see if it can broken ill usually be the one who breaks it.

Yep, the fronts should be fine. The Rangers are not only 2-seaters and weigh more, but they're also meant to haul/tow cargo. They've got 1200-1500# payload, 50-60hp, 25" tires.

Front or rear off the 09+ 700/800 should be enough. If the axle is gonna break, IMO it will break at the plunging cup (like they do on the RZR/RGR), or at the adapter weld. Hopefully it would break outside the trans. Fingers crossed. With a twin 617 thru a trans without a diff and on grippy tires...you can probably count on something breaking during some trail thrashing! lol

I may have sourced a RZR S axle and a hub...not like I don't have enough trial and error parts hoarded already! I talked the carrier idea over with the machinist at work, and he's onboard for a quick gub'ment project. 5" OD steel bar, bearing pocket for press fit, snap ring groove, and recess/taper the back as needed. He could do it 45min or less...but I need the parts here for reference. I'd like to copy the 5-link Gen IV trailing arm design as shown previously. My little lathe at home isn't big enough to grapple 5", plus we have four of them at work we rarely use. But if I get some parts on hand and chips start to fly, I'll start a thread in my D$ World and will quit hijacking your build thread for FL350 rear LT R&D, lol.

I'be been trying to figure out how I can build this shaft and hubs. The splining will be the tricky part. I found that it can be done fairly simply on a lathe. Using a single point broaching method. But you have to build a indexer for the head stock. And its fairly time consuming. Next pay day ill probably order some dividing plates and material to try it out.

Yep you can broach the spline, you can cut them on the lathe with indexer plates, or you can cut them on a mill with a precision index base.

Our prior machinist used to make his own 4130 shafts. He'd cut splines on the mill with the indexer as the 4th axis of his cnc. Then he'd heat-treat the shafts himself in a furnace, carbon powder, and oil quench. Dude was a genius (but also crazy).

I do have a collet indexer and a mill. Unfortunately my indexer only has a 24 position plate and cant be changed out. Originally I wasn't going to mess with the rear suspension and only do the long travel front. But the more I looked at it I realized that in order to get the full travel out of the front I was going to have to do something with the rear. Or I would end up with a gasser look with the front end way up in the air. Not my preference. So I've hacked it this much why not do the rear too. The front I set it up so that the A arms are as far in as they can get so that it didn't end up too wide. I wanted a set of shafts that wouldn't be too wide in the rear. I think these will work for me. Worst case scenario I will have to purchase a more inset wheel. Or longer A arms for the front.

Someone else said it on here somewhere, but to quote the mystery PO.com'er: "The rear tires have to drive over the same bump the front tires did!" The bumps that hurt your back are the ones the rear end hits.

For my Rotax buggy...I'm not worried about fitting on trails and trail-rules, so I don't care about width. I figure in order to take advantage of +3" travel, figure you'll need to lift the frame up off the ground a bit = the buggy will have a higher COG. So it makes sense to go wider anyways in my case. Granted, you are really gaining per the increased angular travel of the CV over the stock Oddy u-joints. Just has to fit on my 6.5' wide trailer. I was planning on adding a little nose to the frame, too, to bring the front a-arm mounts in closer to the frame's centerline.

This one I'm building for the sand. Hopefully when I'm done it will look good enough I won't trash it in the dirt. Plus I figure I can always pick up another one for the dirt and trails. I've also got a trailer I would like to set up just for these. I was thinking of putting a 64" flat top peterbilt sleeper on the front and room for two 350s sideways on the back.

Ok before I talked about having to enlarge the splined portion of the output shaft. I happen to find that the crank shaft gear of stock 350 has a 34 spline count and seems to be an ideal spline size to enlarge my shaft to. The OD size of the splines are slightly smaller than the ID of the bearing race. So this will be the new spline size for the brake disc hub. I found a Ducati disc that measures 9-1/2" in diameter. I'd like to build a new hub that will fit both the disc and the new larger output shaft. The nut from the crank is also larger and I will use this nut for the new shaft and brake hub.

Finally finished my brake caliper. I've been waiting on some seals. Found that a 2000 Chevy rear wheel cylinder boot fits great for a replacement parking brake boot.

Now that's a spiffy rear caliper!

Added a tip to my silencer and welded and polished my intake.

Ok I finally pulled my gear box and the final drive shaft. The spline size I decided to use for the new brake hub is actually the same splines as the inner drive splines of the same shaft. I hope to send the shaft out to have the new shaft made next week.

my gear box oil cap was old and Sun rotten. So I machined a new one.

Nice machine work. Did you make a groove at the base of the cap for an o-ring?

There's a relief area like the factory one has. The o-ring will sit there. I just put a small hole for a vent. I think I may add a pressed brass filter like a quadrajet uses. To help keep debris out and oil in. This is my first attempt I have at least 3 more to build.

It fits nicely