Hello, I am new to the forum and just bought a honda odyssey fl350 a few days ago and need some help. It is missing some parts and pieces but currently runs and drives. It is missing a shifter and cables, ebrake and cables, the electric start was cut and lights were cut. Missing plastics and floor pan and possibly some other parts. It is in need of a radiator as it has a liquid cooled head. Need an electrical diagram and a few other diagrams. 3 wheeler world sent me to here along with TrailBlogger on youtube. Any and all help/advice is much appreciated! Thank You!!!!

Hello and welcome to the site. Congrats on the purchase.

I believe you have a couple of different options for a radiator. Please post pics and tell us more about the machine.

Thanks

Here are a few pictures have some more. Just wish I could upload a group at once and not have to select one at a time

here are the last of them

So I bought this thing for $800 the other day from someone who bought it off another guy who worked at an auto zone. Well the guy from autozone I was told fixed things for hobby. Well screws in the wrong place, lost parts, sheared off pieces etc. The owner prior to me I don't think knew how to mix oil and gas as it has oil from the head to the end of the fmf can which is like wet paint. It runs, it drives, it doesn't smoke much surprisingly. But it is missing its shift lever, plastics, floor pan, some skid plates, snorkel, the high brake light, a bolt for the airbox, its starter I guess didn't work so it was detached? The front light's electrical was cut off. there is some of that black plastic coating the wires go in that is shaved but no wires are shaved surprisingly. Draining the fuel tomorrow, and I am going to try and put the exhaust back on as I think one bolt sheared off in the Engine...... It will need tirod ends innner and outer, and I will need to check the rest of the things. (will need help on how to find out if the rest of the bearings are good or bad) I just want to get it to working order so I can ride it a bit this summer but do a total over haul this winter. Plastics are least of the concerns as I work at a metal shop I can have some stuf fabricated, painted then bolted on. Not welding things on just in case I choose to go factory with this. Also looking into a suspension kit to lift it a bit but $2000 is a bit much for something I'll be using as a toy and not a race machine. I think it was on this forum someone made bolt on suspension to lift it up. Not sure though

As far as the radiator goes, you can use a Yamaha Banshee radiator or a YFZ 400 radiator from a quad. There are others that will work but as usually over sized for just running a water cooled head. Too large of a radiator will not allow the head to warm up properly.

Your head is a Rand's Manufacturing head.
Your radiator appears to be a Banshee radiator.
You water pump is a Mercedes Benz auxiliary heater pump.

What type and model number is that fuel cap? Do you know if it leaks?

Rand

Awesome! Thank you! Is that a good head?? That is good to know that I can buy a radiator from a yfz 400. I will check the model number on the fuel cap in a few. And should that water pump be replaced or is it ok?

Could not find a model number on it.

The Rand head (no affiliation to myself) is a good head and will cool well.

If the Mercedes Benz water pump isn't rattling or making racket when it's running, it should be fine.

If you don't want to use the water pump, you can change your cooling setup to a thermosiphon system if you use a vertical radiator such as a Banshee radiator like the one you have now. With a thermosiphon system, the heated water will rise to the top of the radiator and in the process of cooling becomes heavier than the heated water in the head, thus causing the water to slowly circulate through the system.

The benefit of using the water pump set up is better cooling. The disadvantage is a slower warm up. I have used both and prefer the water pump system.

I was asking about the gas cap because the replacement caps are beginning to become scarce and pricey.

Rand

Alright that helps a lot. I am going to stick with the water pump system but I think I need a new one. Don't think it works. Seems like it may be cracked. The machine is to loud to tell if it even works. Ya I don't see a model number on the cap. I am thinking of going with an aluminum tank at some point. seems like the current one might have some rust. Just started looking at the exhaust yesterday and the bolts stripped out. A buddy recommended Helicoils to fix that but I'm not to sure if they will stay in. And tapping it I don't know how much room I have.

And which model year yfz 400 radiator should I go with? There are some like the one I currently have and there are others that are shorter but wider. Going to have to get most the work done in the summer as I just noticed I will not be able to work somewhere warm with it in the winter. And thank you once again for helping me out. Going to keep looking for parts in the mean time.

04-08 YFZ 450 radiator. I believe that's what randman means. They work good. Make sure you buy one with the radiator cap and the electric fan on it. Otherwise you'll get nickeled and dimed $15 for the cap and more$$ for the fan. You'll need to run a pump with this radiator. Can use the Mercedes pump or a Prius water pump. You won't need the fan but its nice to have if you decide to wire it up for extra cooling down the road.

A radiator setup like this.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 1405490637

Overflow bottle of your choice. Something like this.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 0883991174

Prius pump

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 1736163414

You can pitch the black radiator guard for a fancy one if you can find it. Build some brackets if you can fabricate and wire it up.

Cheapest way to do it is the banshee radiator setup. If you want to get fancy I'd do the YFZ setup.

I like the camo seat btw. How is that done?

This just helped me a ton. I am going to order everything by the end of the week. I have an overflow bottle already will the one I have work? Also the camo appears to be duct tape or similar done vertically then horizontally. How many times, I don't know but it is indeed cool. Pitch the radiator?? Would you happen to have picture or two of what I could do? Also exhaust will be going back on once I find out if I should helicoil the old threads or just tap them a size larger.

Instead of the YFZ radiator which you are going to buy used, why not buy a new Banshee radiator? They go for less than 75 bucks!

Here are some pictures of my Banshee radiator setup.

Rand

Andy,In your head pics,looks like the coolant hose is kinked?...or is it just me?

On the thread repair,I'd be going with this insert,complete unit instead of just threads.
Also IF ya hole is too big ,no probs go the Bigsert.
I've used them before and like the whole complete unit way of doing it instead of just threads.
Plus they lock in.

http://www.timesert.com/html/inchsert.html

http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html

yes the hoses are kinked in two spots. I ran it once for 1 minute or two to make sure it ran forward and backward. I need new hoses and radiator. I will get a few picks of the Engine area. Because nothing seems to be where its supposed to be.

Ok so here is the kinked hoses and busted exhaust (no bolts in it) sorry for so many pictures. Where is the exhaust supposed to be? Also See anything else major missing? And I have two holes by the rear that look like bearings? That are pictured. The two circles behind the air filter. Any banshee radiator good for the replacement? And Any ideas where I can put the new water pump. Don't want hoses to melt or kink.

Hear are the last two. I appreciate all the help guys! Should have this back and running in no time. Next one will be running and driving no issues. LOL

No clamps on the hose joiner?

The 2 holes at the rear are the OEM muffler rubber mounts.

That's some good camouflage. What seat? Lol. I can't even see the tape lines . I meant pitch the black plastic radiator guard that's factory on the yfz. Then again I don't see any aftermarket guards for sale anywhere. I know someone does or did make aftermarket ones. I had a chrome one with flames on it. Looked really nice. I do not have any pictures handy. Mudbogger owns it now. I wired the fuel pump to come on with the key. Then in the blank switch spot on the left side of the steering wheel I added an extra switch to control the fan. It was where the switch went for the hondaline lights so a factory switch bolts in perfect.

Randman is probably right on the banshee radiator. It's been done many times so it could be replicated easily. Works great and cheaper. I would personally use a water pump with it. That's arguable. I believe it was Nickrnr that had a water pump seize up and I believe he melted a piston because of it. On the other had I trust a pump more than the thermosiphon method. It's better to have more cooling than you need than to not have enough when you need it.

As far as the water pump and Banshee radiator, you can find them on evilbay quite easily.....

Here is an ebay link for the Mercedes Auxiliary Water Pump.....
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=me ... p&_sacat=0

If your water pump runs quietly, then there should be no reason to replace it.



The Banshee radiator can also be easily found on evilbay.....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=me ... r&_sacat=0



Your DG pipe actually is missing a mounting bracket.

The mounting bracket has broken off just below the frame rail, just above your clutch. You will need to replace the bracket to make sure it's mounted securely.

WARNING!!!!! DO NOT MOUNT THE PIPE RIGIDLY DIRECTLY TO THE FRAME ANYWHERE! You need to use the factory exhaust mounts that look like bearings. These will allow the pipe to move independent of the Engine and the frame. More than likely, the bracket that has broken of did so because the previous owner mounted the pipe directly to the frame and didn't use the exhaust mounting brackets.

Rand

Ordering the radiator and water pump. Also Anywhere where I could possibly find a bracket? If not anyone have a picture of one? I work at a metal shop so I could easily draw one up with proper dimensions and have it fabricated. That is also good to know to not mount it to the frame. Thank you everyone! Will still need parts in the future, such as inner and outer tierod ends, skid plates, Snorkel, then help with electrical as the electric start will be hooked up again soon.

Going to go with this radiator on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASI-PROCOOL-40m ... 65&vxp=mtr

and not sure which mercedez pump to go with. I don't think mine honestly works as it sits. Hoping previous owner didn't fry the Engine...