Figured I would start a new thread specific to the transplant. I got this oddy a year a go and fixed it up pretty good. Ran great. It came with a torn intake boot. I replaced it with ODD Atv one. motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) started to run away. Thought it was the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) but turns out to it was the carb boot again. I am working on resolving this as we speak and hope to have a good outcome.

Fast forward to today I landed a nice NOS Straight Fin motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) in the original box ordered as a kit as well as some other parts.. So after looking at my slant fin it needs some love. Compression was 115. Leaking base gasket and has a broken bolt in the exhaust flange.

So oddy is stripped down motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) ready to be pulled.

Any tips or feedback you have would be appreciated. I know the straight fin is more potential for overheat but I don't ride much and I will be very cautious.

Although the piston is 80mm just like we all use as replacement, the compression is higher because the piston and head's combustion chamber are shaped differently. This makes it extremely important to run at minimum 91 octane and make sure it's jetted fat almost to the point of fouling plugs.

Rand

That's the plan. I usually run avgas.

No mods no idling . Should be good .

Old motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is out all parts are stripped off for transfer.

What should it do to the starter while out? Never had an issue. Something I should address now?

I would address it now. It's a major pain to pull a starter after everything together. Take it apart and check the brushes and commentator. Just my opinion. It's just sitting in front of you now anyways.

Got the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) out and all the parts off that need to go on the new motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) stripped off. Looking at the old motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) it is tired. Ordered a new seal for the balancer cover crank hole. Found a new starter rebuild kit in the parts stash so will do that this week.

Pulled the driven clutch off. It was very tired. Tapping the three holes 5/16 and using a puller came off real easy. Rig has a new 94C on it already so I am going to replace the driven with a new one while I am at it.

Got all the parts for my leakdown tester to keep on top of this new motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) before running and in life preventative. After starter rebuild this week hoping to install and put back together next week providing this mossbarger intake goes well and I can get the stock carb on somehow.

What is the trick to getting the bushings out of the starter ?

Figured it out. 1/4 NPT tap for the two bigger ones. Thread it it in and it pulls right out. 3/8 for the smaller one but you need flat tip taps. Pretty easy rebuilding these.

Few more parts on the way and the reassembly can begin.

Ended up ordering a new starter. Just waiting on the balancer cover crank seal. New driven clutch is on. Altenator and recoil back on. Leakdown tester built.

Did get that new intake from hootfoot. Going to try and make this straight work so I have a better solution into the future. Would adding a reed spacer help to gain some clearance? Could just put it on the carb side of the reeds to gain some clearance?

I don't think that spacer will work for you because the air intake boot on the carb will be crushed up against the transmission. What you will find is that you will have to cut the left Engine/transmission bracket. That's what the carb will hit and rub on. Might be easier to cut a small piece of flat bar and drill two holes. Then you will have the original bracket if you don't like the out come.

Can Oddy had the same idea I did with making a new bracket. I tried using the straight manifold and the decided against it.

If you do use the centered intake manifold and get it to clear the transmission mount, the next issue is the alignment of the rear carb boot to the air box.....

Rand

Thought I'd share a pic of the oddy project and roof over its head.

Didn't want you to think I was a catfish member!

86 trx 70 original owner hiding back there . Oddy not bad shape. Complete original going back to straight fin technically original motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).

Any tucker addicts let me know!

Tuckers are very unique cats. I worked at Kirkwood ski resort for a bit. We had prinoths, bombis, lmc, and dmc (yes deloren made snow cats) nice collection you have there.

Re the reed spacer

It is suppose to go between the reed block and the Cyc. I run one on my oddy
and yes it does move the air intake back 1/4" but you take your time no rushing
and it all goes together.

Is there a performance gain.
It's noticeable little more crisp a little better mid range not much but its there
NO big HP gains

yeoddy

I was thinking that the spacer would help with the straight flange intake clearance. Got the intake today hope to have motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) installed this weekend and see what I can do here.

New starter and intake on. Leak down check.

So what you guys are saying is with this straight intake I need to modify the left trans mount or make a new one that will clear?

Easy if that is the only road block here?

Also this has boysen reeds and the reed stops removed. Is this correct ?

Your rear carb boot which attaches to air box isn't going to line up either.

Rand

New balancer cover seal. Installed motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Starter wore hooked up. This aftermarket starter power is on bottom. Little reroute for but workable.

Cleaned and lubed up the comer drive clutch.

This is going pretty smooth. The moss barger intake solution is a great solution. Slight mod to the trans Engine bracket. I can get the stock air box and boot on but it pulls up on the carb more than I like.

Here's some pics. I'm going to make this work with the stock box. Need to think about it and make up and adapter.

How much would a tucker like that cost me?

10-20K and up. Tucker factory restore just sold for 60K. Many variables based on condition. The tracks rollers rails trunion and turn tables dictate everything.

Lots of proprietary parts and 64 rollers per track x 4 tracks x 30-50$ each of you can find them.

Success!

Straight intake stock air box oddy cool.

One 2.5" threaded nipple a little sanding and cutting. Oem fix for the future.

Back together new fuel lines filter Honda T . Stock airbox and hardware with mossbarger intake works great. Best part is you can buy new mikuni boot it ever needed. Surprised nobody made this work before.

She fired right up and sounds great. Few odds and ends to button up. Need to wire the oddy cool and and hour meter.

Is call project straight fin a success and great learning experience. Hope this intake issue that seems to be solved helps others.

It's been done countless times before. I have even done it myself. I just don't like having to cut stuff up and have things in a bind.

There's a lot of vibration there and you could tear the intake boot. That's what happened to a setup I tried.

Rand

In that case pray for me!

What do you think about jetting? I have the 142 main and the needle 4th groove from stock richer.