In the process of making Engine mounts and intake manifolds for larger carbs with poly urethane shore A 60 . I tried making the first mold out of blue silicone. That was a disaster. After a week the crap still wasn't dry. So I ordered some two part urethane. Got some of it done last night. Making the mold for the intake manifold is a bit time consuming and requires some thought.

CO, is this what you guys do up there during the winter...Awesome...simply awesome!

I had that same glue gun!

Worked great until my kids destroyed it!

Well I poured the very first Engine mount tonight. Will post a pic of it tomorrow night.
Also poured the mold for the intake. Not sure how it is gona turn out because there was a very very small leak in my mold box. This is just the mold to make an intake, not like the finished product I will have for the Engine mount. Looking forward to seeing what happens

Well if you don't have a wife up here in the winter, you better keep busy

Maybe mould yaself a wifeywoman?

Or if I was thinkin Aussie ------------ May be a sheep

Well that first Engine mount was a complete and total failure.
Stupid me was to cheap to buy the coloring agent that they were selling because they want so much money for it and would only sell it in huge quantities. So I thought I would be smart and add food coloring. When I did that the liquid rubber started "gassing off" for the lack of a better term. As you can see by the first pic, it looks like there is a mushroom on top but I did not fill it up that high. When I removed it from the mold today it didn't look to bad actually. Unfortunately the few drops of coloring that I added completely changed the properties of the rubber. It's supposed to be shore A 60 hardness but this mount is softer than chewing gum. Total failure. The molds that were made with the same stuff are fine. So basically it's gona be white or nothing. Will do another one later without the coloring and post tomorrow.

Not sure if you can tell by the photo but look how much of the food coloring I added (right bottle).
We are talking about an eye droppers worth and it completely changed the rubber compound.

Just finished the pour on the second Engine mount and an intake manifold (without the food coloring LOL). The pour went well and it looks good. Won't be able to tell until I de-mold it tomorrow. If it turns out well then I will begin some testing on some pieces of the rubber. For the testing I plan on putting the pieces in some fuel/oil mix. A few pieces in premium fuel and 35/1 mix and a few pieces in Avgas at 50/1 mix. Will let them sit for a day and pull one piece out of each to see if the rubber turned to gummie bear consistency. Then after a few days pull out the rest of the pieces.

Great idea! Can ya make up some,like enough for a Flock of 'em?
You know you wano...Then forever more,you will be knighted the Newe Hewe Hefner!!!

PS.I know ol Big Gaz Newekum will want some too!
You know what,Wyoming was the 1st USA state to allow the woman's vote...Guess what their 2nd was?

Is there an aging process beyond the mold setting time? Additionally is there a compound or agent that can be applied to the rubber before you expose it to the gas mixture?
Great work!

This is where i go for my casting supply's
https://www.freemansupply.com/

I use the Freeman 1060 Semi-Rigid Polyurethane
last purchased back in 2009 paid $222 for 10lbs 1 gal kit

Looking good

I good release agent is Johnson's Past wax works great


Speed

I don't like sheep. May be I will take the left over and make the top half of a wifeywoman --------oooppps------ never mind, that's the talking half. May be the bottom.

The aging process is 24hrs total cure time and then 8 hrs in an oven at 150'F. That just ain't gona happen here. There is no agent that I am aware of to apply before exposure to the fuel.

I get my stuff from Sculpture Supply Canada. I use Vytaflex60. The total cost for a 1 gal kit with tax is $196.04 but shipping was 56.00 of that cost. That's why I hate using delivery services here in Canada. We get raped. Unfortunately they could not ship Canada post because it is a liquid. I use Vaseline as a release agent. Works well so far.

The natural color is not a issue with me, function is my concern, is the durometer same or close to OEM I will assume our current mounts are harder than when new perhaps LEE can tell us the design durometer?

IMO adding color is taking the space where the material should be.

Is the new stuff fuel/oil resistant?

THANKS for sharing intake boots next?

How do the mounts fit the Odyssey I would have considered shaving down the one you use to make the mold so the replacement is just a few thousands over sized to make up for worn parts that the mount makes contact with, follow me?

I'm with you on the function issue. I don't give a poo what my oddy looks like as long as it is fast.
Is the new stuff fuel/oil resistant? ------ that's why I will do the test above.
THANKS for sharing intake boots next? ------ already made an intake boot last night and am going to de-mold it in about an hour from now. Will post pics in a little while.
--just a few thousands over sized to make up for worn parts that the mount makes contact with, follow me? ------ Yes I do. I found a mount that seemed to fit nicely and used that for the mold. I am planning on de-molding in about an hour so will get back to all of you on this in a little while.

Well after yesterdays total disaster I am happy to say today was a double success. Well may be success and a half. I don't really like the Engine mount. The pics tell the story. Some of the inclusions were caused by the Vaseline. The intake is awesome and I plan on make another one as well as making a stock intake mold. Note also that I did not put a metal face plate into the mold for the intake. I was planning on making one and mounting on top of the intake and bolting it down. The Engine mount "feels" like the original in regards to durometer. The intake is very very flexible compared to the stock "iron" intake.
more pics coming

More pics
The new Engine mount fits real nice into the Engine. I don't think I have to mod the mold.

At the end of the day I am happy with the results. Some fine tuning is required on the Engine mount mold though. I think the rubber did not adhere to the pipe because I may have got some Vaseline on it during the install. The inclusion may have been caused by some excessive amounts of Vaseline -- not sure. I am a bit concerned about the flexible intake but I think it should be ok. Hey D$ if you are reading this thread and you get a chance can you check the durometer of the stock intake rubber for me ?? In my opinion there is no reason why everyone on this site couldn't make their own Engine mounts. Making the mold was very easy. Just smear some Vaseline on a mount, put it in a cup, mix your two part rubber and pour it in. After 16hrs pull the stock mount out. Get a piece of pipe the right size and weld a washer on the end. Vaseline your mold. Put pipe in your mold and pour some rubber mix in it. Done. The intakes are a different story. Mine is a two piece and I was thinking of making a three piece early on, but the two piece works well. It is made the same way as the Engine mount mold except you need to be able to remove one of the parts so that you can get the rest of your piece out.

Avgas 50/1 mix --- test.
I am just going to pass on the premium fuel test. We only run Avgas anyways. Someone else take the ball and run with it.
In 24hrs I will post the first result.

Just finished another pour on a intake and an Engine mount and a second Engine mount mold.
De-mold tomorrow afternoon.
Originally I was going to do a stock intake mold but my brother and I don't run the stock carbs anymore. So I think I will just forget about it. Just for clarification here - the manifold I poured and the pics you see of it are for a TM38 flat slide carb. The stock carb is a PE32.

No metal in the intake manifold?

Hahaaaaa ---- I was waiting for that one LOL.
I did not add a metal outer frame on purpose. I was worried that the rubber would not bond well, so my plan is to install it as is and the metal plate goes over the top. Then it is all bolted to the cylinder. It might not work, but I feel confident that it will.