Thanks Odykid and Mudbogger, but unless it is a proven fact I will most definitely stay with the powerbloc. I definitely felt the difference as soon as I change it....and the capabilities of the fine duning are fabulous. I also have my stocker for a back up.

Thanks I think just the basics would do,
"do you balance your clutches"
"how can I tell if my clutch was balanced what are the identifying marks"
"Is it possible I received a clutch that was not balanced"
"how come you offer no email support to customers" heh
we also need to provide the exact model number off the clutch or box.

let me get the smartass comments out of the way first.

Ask them to stop speaking French, they are in Canada which is in North America and we speak english damn it.

I AM ONE of the ones that interjected the power block theroy, the main reason being most of the engines losing the bearing on the left side HAD power bolck clutches and mine didn't. Before on my old motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) the rod bearing let loose not the main, i use a stock clutch , not by choice just laziness.


Save that bearing! that was stopped dead in its tracks, should provide a picture of exactly what failed. I am inclined to change my opinion to lack of oil combined with added load of higher stall clutch/ higher performance, this is depending on what we find with my newer pilot and mikey's, if we get a bad lower rod bearing on mine and the left bearing on mike's i say powerblocks will start selling real cheap. If my left side bearing is bad i might have a 102c for sale.

IMO the French canadians ALL know how to speak English. They just play dumb so they don't have to talk to us Americans. But that's just MO

Again I want proof anybody can point fingers and blame other parts we need facts not fiction we already got a few mutts in the Pilot Odyssey world putting the scare on seizures and selling piston and cylinder coatings at HUGE profits to people implying that's the cure, we still see these coated engines dieing just as fast or faster than a non coated Engine, I have brought up the coatings are a waste of money but I am out voted by those want to believe if they spend the extra 200 bux on secret Engine sauce the Engine will last longer.

This Engine is MORE proof you don't need the cylinder coatings, look at the gouge taken out of the side of the piston, it DIDN'T damage the cylinder at all, look at the rest of the piston real close ALL the machine marks are worn completely off (well worn Engine) almost ALL the way around the piston, the cylinder is still nice and round with no unusual wear marks or patterns, I have seen this same thing on dozens of other uncoated treated engines, again if you do GOOD filter maintenance can wear out 2-3 pistons on a cylinder bore.

So.... I want only FACTS so we can cure the problem, IMO the cure is the same as the cure for the FL250 Engine was (same bearing failure) install a second bearing on the clutch side...

im not a pilot guy buy any means, but that added strees do to larger stall really is a very good point, also agree two bearings may be a good cure...

Here is a parts list of stuff needed for rebuild

Gasket kit
Crank seals
Right side cover oil seal
Piston
Rings
Wrist pin
Wrist pin bearing
Circlips (Two required)
Crank bearings

Need to address the crank I would say at the least the big end bearing and pin needs replaced, I see some uneven wear on the small end of the rod, I will try to get pics of this and post. (((EDIT))) here is a link to the pics they are high res so I put them in their own post http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?p=17536

So you either need to have the crank rebuild or buy a new crank, we need to find a crank rebuilder we can count on, Harescrambles your guy retired? You ever find a replacement???

Do we have a $$$ for the parts list - without crank?

What is cost of a new crank?
What is cost to rebuild crank?

Parts prices will depent on where you order the parts, the cost of the crank rebuild will depend alot on who does the work?

If you want I can price out the parts using the Service Honda web page...

Here is the parts break down
91201-402-015 OIL SEAL (35X52X7) 6.68 Right crank case cover
91032-HE0-005 BEARING (6306) (C3) 27.97 crank bearing
91033-HE0-005 BEARING (S6306 C3) 27.97 crank bearing
91203-HE0-003 OIL SEAL (42X65X11) 8.93 crank seal
91204-HE0-003 OIL SEAL (30X45X8) 7.12 crank seal

13000-HE0-010 CRANKSHAFT 361.87


TWO 90601-KA5-000 CLIP (1.2X20) 0.79
13111-HE0-000 PIN, PISTON 12.96
91003-HE0-003 BEARING 9.77
13011-HE0-305 RING SET (STD) 36.97
13103-HE0-010 PISTON 72.37
061A0-HE0-000 Disontinued GASKET KIT 45.73
((((When you order the gasket set try this number of the other one still says Disontinued, 061AO-HEO-T00 ))))
===========================================================================
If you rebuild crank you need these parts
13201-HE0-310 ROD, CONNECTING 73.82
Two 13202-KA5-741 PLATE 6.54
13381-HE0-300 PIN A, CRANK 24.63
91006-HE0-004 BEARING, CONN ROD 16.20
======================================================================

I still have the CR500 Rod kit if you wanted to go that route.
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.ph ... ight=cr500

They list the gasket set as "Disontinued" I would call see if it really is tell them to order them we might need to do like we did with the front left fender years ago, everybody call their local Honda shop and order one so they make them again.

These are the Service Honda prices on their web site today, keep in mind with them the min charge for shipping is 9 bux you will easily exceed that I am sure just want you to know in case you order small item like a jet some day, Watch out for Hillside Honda they are messing with our long time discount on bigger items like the crank shaft or piston they are NOT giving you the same discount as the smaller items, I NO LONGER deal with Hillside they have a new parts flunky that has made dealing with them more trouble than its worth IMO he is a smart ass and gives me the impression he wants off the phone as fast as he possibly can, their is no longer any customer service their just parts flunkies that rather be burning one rather than spending any extra time to help you out, its now a brainless job, take the part number from you and process it you might as well be ordering it off a web site so your not on hold or have to have the guy on the other end repeat himself because you cant understand what he is saying, I wish some of these parts monkeys could see how parts guys did business 25 years ago they would shit their punk ass pants if they see how it really is suppose to be done, guess their is no apprenticeship to serve to be a parts guy, Hillside was good whilst it lasted I miss JOE and TREVOR that's when times were really good..

Their is also Odykids buddy you might check with...
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.ph ... ight=mario

As always I don't care who you use for parts or what you pay just giving you options and info best as I can.

I will go over this list again later today to ensure I didnt forget anything but I think its pretty complete.

if I went the 500 route. Are their changes to the carb I need to make.?
Is it worth doing the 500 thing?
Doesnt the jug and piston need to be change also?
Let's call this 500 build 101.

i think hoser was talking about just the 500cc rod, it does not change displacement at all, it just has a larger top end bearing from what I have read and you still have to get it rebuilt.
I would stay away from any mod where you fill in cylinder studs and tap new holes, that's more of the sales hype, bling bling stuff, no need for it.

I am probably going to buy a new crank and then rebuild my current bad one to keep as a spare, more so to speed up this and future rebuilds.

Actually i should have a new hook on crank rebuilds but he is untested by me, I have known the guy for a while and he is a good wrench, lets hope he is a great machinist, he is one for a living.

Thanks Doctor - That was my first thought -"always go with your instinct" So I will stick with it.
I will purchase a new crank and have hoser return the bad one to me. Next time we ride - Which will be soon - I will hand it over to you to pass along to your friend. I will take one for the team here and test out the new guy.

I have a spare FL350 crank I need rebuilt.

I'd be willing to test him out as well. I'll provide the parts and the money. Hare you do the inspection. ;)

One day when I get into this 'other' fl350 Engine of mine I may have a second crank to be done.

Ordered from Service Honda all parts using NEW crank- spoke with a most pleasant young lady "Allison"
They will have the order in 2 days then it will be forwarded directly to you(hoser)
FYI -As for the gaskit kit 061A0-HE0-000 Disontinued GASKET KIT this is a discontinued # only - the new number is 061AO-HEO-T00 - [/quote]

Cool on the parts I will be cleaning everything up today so I can assemble soon as the parts get here.

I have a spare Pilot crank that need the rod changed also guess I can have the CR500 rod installed since nobody wants to buy it heh

Got the word - parts are coming Fed ex - will be there 7-10 days

Anything new on the rebuild fellas?????

I recieved the Engine from Hoser today. It was shipped UPS ground insured for $1000. The outer box looks to be in very good condition. I popped the top in front of the UPS guy and alls well.

I will take some pics later and post up the packaging, here and also in the "Engine tutorial" thread.

Planning on reassembling the pilot tomorrow afternoon.

My riding itch is getting hard to deal with. ASK MY WIFE - she can't wait for me to get in a riding day- she says I glow after I ride.......

Their is NO OIL in the balancer case you will need to ADD OIL before starting the Engine!!!! also replace or adjust the clamps on the pulse tube that connects to the fuel pump even with the clamp tight it would not tighten real good on the hose, you will find the one radiator hose in the smaller box with the crank.

[/quote]

Their is NO OIL in the balancer case you will need to ADD OIL before starting the Engine!!!! also replace or adjust the clamps on the pulse tube that connects to the fuel pump even with the clamp tight it would not tighten real good on the hose, you will find the one radiator hose in the smaller box with the crank.[/quote]


I see the hose...i will b replacing the clamp. Most likely both. I also got the hose.

Here are some pics of the package.
I will update tomorrow once I reassemble and get her running.

The box looks about like it did when it left here glad it made it and they didnt knock the side out, like the note I put on top


When installing the metal plates that go between the rear of the Engine and trans make sure they are seated perfectly in the dowl pins before you tighten the bolts so you don't crush them, they can be a pain to seat, sometimes you get lucky and they just fall into place, I set the Engine in the Pilot then install the front bolts, leave them loose so you have some wiggle room and play to make the rear connection...

It was my lucky day......all seated perfect.
Last night motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was put in. All hoses and electrical are together. Need to put on the driven, the clutch, the seat and the pipe this morning. All goes well - turn key before noon.

Last night was my lucky night....everything went in place perfect. All hoses and wires are connected. Going to assemble the driven, the clutch, pipe seat etc. this morning. Planning on turning key by noon.