I believe that bearing is 17mm wide but the Honda one is only 14mm wide.
You might want to check this out to confirm that bearing will fit.

I believe that bearing is 17mm wide but the Honda one is only 14mm wide.
You might want to check this out to confirm that bearing will fit.

Thanks for the answers.
Belt: I've seen where some one replaced the belt with out checking size, width etc. I have also seen where one shredded a belt and did not remove driven and clean debris and check seal and lead to failure.

Yes was making sure the shafts we're parallel or slight obtuse from the case.

curious if the Engine transmission was tied together solid allowing the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts and transmission mounts to work in unison.
Concerned about shaft Center and belt Center numbers.
I would consider removing the driven spring and the drive spring reassembling the clutches on the rebuilt transmission checking your Center to Center and run outs for the belt used.

this could contribute to bearing failure and or cracking the Engine mount.
Just some thought since I have never seen or worked on this combination.

if you decide to remove the driven spring also check all the roller bearings in The driven.
if you do remove the driven spring check it to make sure it's within spec or shim for correct poundage.
This could and will affect the load on the drive.
Few years back I posted a driven spring correction chart

The last thing you want is the drive to outrun The driven this lead to bearing failure. That is to say driven bottomed out and drive still expanding. If so you need to shim driven or take away from drive. Your rpm range will help with that.

That is where center to center plays a part. Once the driven locks out in the drive expands it takes the parallel shafts and makes them acute. That's where you'll see the stress on the bearings. with a new belt this is more crucial than already a stretched belt that is adjusted to this situation. V about where and stretch.
The angle we're on the Bell will be a Tell-Tale for this.
You will need to log the new belt and then check it then compare the difference. If there is this will impact we're on the drive in the driven until it wears to an acceptable level.

I 2nd that. Measure it before you install.

I thought both input shafts bearing were special thickness.

I beleive many guys run the seal without the steel protector.

I will measure everything now.

Now just a thought. Sincxe you have an extra input shaft in the gearbox with the excess play, and since you have the thicker bearings, I wonder if you could have the stops on the shaft ground down to accommodate the thicker bearings. This could solve your problem of excess play and not having oem bearings. The thicker bearing could also help to withstand the extra power you are introducing, along with the additional external bearing support. Just a thought.

I wouldn't try to turn or face the collar stops on the shaft. I would only use a lathe mounted grinder, as the shaft is hardened.

CO posted the link to the thread you are looking for, in this thread back on April 16th. Back on page one of this thread.

I am looking at different ways of handling this mess, all options are on the table at this time, for the #17 bearing, there is room in the case to machine out 2mm of the bottom of the bore, then the torque limiter would either need to be cut 2mm off the end or possibly no change to that as long at there is enough clearance on the cover.
for the #16, there does not appear to be enough in the case to machine out 3mm and keep the seal mounted, could possibly use a sealed bearing, and then maybe a thinner seal on the outside, I have not looked into this.
Another option is to pursue the thread CO posted, I need to look further into that, it seemed the biggest hurdle with that is getting the shifter to have the clearance.
A third option that I'm looking at is to have the oversized bearings ground to the proper thickness, I have priced this at roughly $125 for a lot of 10 and then they would need to be ultrasonically cleaned, I have not priced this. they said to grind one it would be about $60.
the only problem I see with grinding is that there will no longer be a radius on the outer edge, that you would need to put on with a dremmel tool or with a lathe, I don't recall how much of a radius is at the bottom, thinking how much of a radius would be needed on the bearing if any, I know without it would be very difficult to install.

Actually there is another option for this mess.
I posted it in my first comment on page 1.
Drop a few dimes and make some calls.

Here we go, found it:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7022