I never told anyone to do a search. I've always answered their question if I could.

you tell them what they need to hear and not what they want to hear.

I worked at the biggest and only Honda shop in my area (within 100 miles of any other shop) when I was 16 back in 1988.

I always wanted an Odyssey since I first saw one back in '85.

Some things I also own "because I had one or one similar as a kid, or just always wanted one"
1991 CR500
1986 CR80
2001 CR250
2000, 2001, 2004 TRX400EX

Can I reply today?

Tried to repost this last weekend but it said my IP address was corrupt.

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J B
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So I got the FL350 I bought as a basket case running. Everything turned out ok, had to get a used bottom end off ebay, had my cylinder bored to the next size which is 81mm.

The used bottom end cleaned up well, replaced gaskets, seals, pressure and vacuum tested.

After break in, heat cycles, etc. It runs really rich. The top end power is down and it smokes like a freight train at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) (Wide Open Throttle). It had a 45 pilot, 142 main, 3rd clip position. Pump gas 93 octane, 20:1 Bel-Ray non synthetic. Uni pod filter (it didn't come with an air box)

I leaned it out to 135, 42, 2nd clip and it gained power. It might run perfect at one very small throttle position.
Plug looks good, like medium dark chocolate.

Has stock exhaust. Has a 2 gallon fuel tank 10" above the carb. No pump.

Stock 32mm carb, new float valve from jets r us, 16mm float height. New manual choke plunger (cable operated one was missing)

I used an IR temp gun (which I'm not a fan of) to check temps. Don't remember exact numbers because they weren't unusual the head was approx 250-260, exhaust flange not much higher. The silencer area above the cleanout plate was in the 400 range, which I thought was odd.

Will the extra displacement with the stock carb need to be jetted leaner on these engines? I've done big bore engines before that ran fine with the stock jetting.

I'm at sea level, like less than 20' and it's been in the low 90's with 75-85% humidity.

AND THEN THIS HAPPENED
Carb manifold wasn't dry rotted but it came loose from the aluminum----Melted piston. I shut it off early, I'd say badly scuffed on the exhaust side. I know deep down some of you will be just tickled to death to hear this.

So I ordered a 36mm PWK, all this past week as parts were coming in I was prepping and putting it back together. The cylinder cleaned right up- just aluminum transfer.

Got it running and heat cycled yesterday on the RTV'd back together stock manifold. Then today I put on my home made intake manifold with the PWK and got some jetting done. It runs. It's hard to follow Wiseco's break in procedure when you're stall speed is 'high' , I need to connect a tach to see. But it ruined the old belt, the new one seems to stall higher.

I need to find or make another intake manifold. It seems like you can't get a straight shot to the reed cage and have the carb level AND fit an air filter on unless you take a plate and weld a pipe to it. My intake matches reed cage dimensions but points too far up in my opinion, and in order to level it, it would need to be even longer.

that's the update.

https://www.jetsrus.com/needle_valve_fl ... a_atv.html
They list one specifically for the 1985 FL350, it looks like my old one, it doesn't look like any other Keihin float valve I have (2000 CR250, 1986 CR80, 2003 TRX400EX)
I needed a new one because the spring on the bottom didn't work, was collapsed.

I don't know why it was running so rich. I have since bought, installed and mostly jetted a new carburetor. The new carb says specifically it's not designed for use with a fuel pump.
And it burned another piston, both BTW while the spark plug was a nice medium brown color. I posted another thread on that.