Have started to make some plastic panels for up and coming Northam Race.
First up ,the number plate, then a prototype protective bonnet.Last race meet, I got blasted by the big Bearclaws on the 100hp plus Piranhas, Was not fun!
Tested it out today and was fine, just needs some more shaping and finishing trims.
Will post more pics during the week.

Looks good, I have seen wire mesh screen used with great success over the open area to keep rocks and stuff out usually a 1/2" x 1/2" mesh, if you get mud on it and cant see you just smack it a few times with the back of your hand it falls off.

Yeah, I was thinkin of something similar, but don't want it to impede vision too much.
Best thing I'm thinkin is, Best Holeshot Ever! Get to first hairpin first, then spray them and go like !@#$
The rejetting has made a big diff, and with new Powerbloc, n belt ,running 12 maybe 11 discs has really perked up the ol girl!

Watching your last race videos you need to work on your launch, remove weights until you can spin the tires on the hard pack, their should be NO hesitation off idle to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), no bog, if their is your not done tuning, when setting waiting for the flag to drop ease up on the throttle, bring the RPM's UP to the point where you feel the clutch just starting to engage and grab the belt then when the flag drops you get a better hole shot.


Go practice this, practice on all types of ground you might have to launch from, hard, soft, dirt, sand, play with tire pressures.

You can set a distance and use a stop watch to see what is actually working, sometimes what feels good or faster by seat of the pants is not the fastest.

Did you mark your clutches for the last race to see if your getting into high gear?

On short tracks you might want to go to a 22" tire if your not shifting out all the way with a 24" tire, huge difference in acceleration with a shorter tire, if ground clearance is not a issue even a shorter tire can be used.

If all else fails build a heat laser and have your buds burn holes in the other cars tires at the starting line so they have to run with flats

Bugeye, look good. Can you maybe do some close ups and info on materials. I may need a set up like that for chasing drakarts. The rooster booster(AKA. Drakman, sound like an energy drink) dishes out a mean roost when trying to stay close. I 'am putting together a drakart chase package to help stay close. I think I would like to add your mod to my list. DCP for short. Thanks Adnoh

The launches were more like Crawlers, bogged down terribley! It was all to do with the 39mmPWK Carb jets.
165RD Main....Went down to 158.
55 Pilot.........." " #50
Clean n service, now is much better and crisper and still a bit rich, but will use these settings as my next base line, and advance from there.
Clutch was marked and was shifting out, but just over rich carb.
I normally start with rear brake on and throttle brought up to just pre engagement revs, then mash the throttle down at same time releasing the rear brake. I have been thinking of reversing my brakes, so that left hand can do front brakes and that would allow better readiness and slightly more engagement of clutch, maybe even have it wheel spinning slightly before flag drop!
Adnoh, when it's all done properly, I will blue print it for you.
Taklin Drakman? Your a brave soul!! Maybe put a garden type blower on the front to "Return to sender"
Good luck...Baz

in the old days of drag racing that was called a hurts line lock.



OMO

don't tell him that he will smoke the belt lmao

A blower, ya that's what I need. I wonder If I can get one to fix my 39mm carb and how will I drive the pully. Speaking of carbs. 158 on a 39mm. You running a stock bore ,stock port and pipe or is the fuel over there a little more punchy. I use a 39 with stock "A" cylinder and pipe it take a 195 main. Knowing all engines are different and jetting will be different it kinda surprises me that you had to go down. If you had to jet down did you change the neddle setting to pull of the bottom and mid. You know the setup over there appears to be different form this side of the sea. I wonder if the water turning a different way when flushing has something to do with it. 165 to 158 I bet it bogged and idoled like a four stroke in sheeps clothing. If your are in stock trim the 39 will hurt your bottom to mid pull, to big of carb. Theres a formula for carb size. I bet "H" can figure it for you. You will need to pull a long straigt on top to get any advantages out of the 39mm if stock exhaust. Usally a flow port job,head work with air intake and pipe will be nedded to use the 39 effencly. It's fun chasing drakman and ted. By the end of the day my jaw hurts for the big smile on my face when not keep it closed for the rooster boosters. They are as fun to talk with as they are to ride with. Keep up the pilot faith and go get those higher horse powered buggies. Is there a db level set for your races. Thanks for the info for the DCP.

Hey Rich, motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is all OEM stock, brand new cyl, piston , head 2-3 yrs ago. PWK's 39mm carbs come standard with #160 main, mine had a #165RD. Pipe is a Hi Rev Ceramic, I think from ATV racing.Hav'nt changed the needle, seems OK for now. Fuel I use is 98 octane premium unleaded.
No limits on Decibal!
I am still keeping up the Pilot faith, and trying to teach these non-believers!

Any idea what needle, slide and pilot jet your using, any intake mods or air box mods?

I ran a 162 main in my mod Pilot from sea level to I think the most of 3500' in elevation.



195 is HUGE I would figure out why you need so big, list your mods...

Needle is 48DDJ, I also think too fat.
Throttle valve C.A.6.0
Dual air lid.

I also thought 195 main seems too big.But who am I to judge?

Here is my jetting page where I sorta kept track what I was doing I don't remember now how updated it was but it gives you a feel or a ballpark no doubt everybody jetting will be different and you should jet to your needs not someone else's.
http://pilotodyssey.com/currentjetting.htm

Don,t really know why It's like the 195. In the summer above 100 it even likes the 205 wierd uh. Mods mainly bolt on. I have an stock "A" cylinder that got a back yard hacker (flow)port job( by Probie, aka me). I milled head with a recut dome and squish by the back yard hacker himself( me) It has reeds, spacer pipe and hillbilly air box lid mod. I use champions not ngks, please no slap on head just always used them there cheap at auto zone. The plug is a NC4 ( 7 ) for spring summer anf fall and NC5 (6) for winter. Head pressure of 171 when built and 171 with 32 hr on it. I run 91 pump gas. The head when done was at 185 but did not want to run fuel so I recut squish and tappered. Oh ya use hp-2 at 32 to 1. That it other than drive drive stuff. You alredy know about the 39MM carb. The head work and flow job reguired a new carb the stock would not flow enough It keep saying need more input like 5 alive. When dialing in the carb I started by taking out the main jeat and dialing the slow jet than the nedle and than drop a 185 in it and ya not big enough. Though maybe developed a iar leak pulled motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and re checked all ok so I took the 185 out and it stumbled so I made a trip to the honda shop and said hand over the jet box and I'll bring it back monday. Drop in a 215 and it took with the exception of long and I mean long hard pull. Than did plug checks and reading and found the 195 with the 7( NC4 ) was the one it ask for. Been running well ever since At times as you know it likes a little bigger thou humity and air has something to do with it. PLESAE DO NOT USE these numbers as a guide anybody It's just what this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) likes the wifes a little different. If this is out of the ordanry let me know what to look for. I just gave the Tiger chaser what it ask for. Just had to throw a shout out to them. Don't want to make tiger mad, it bites. This maybe why Dennis questioned my set up on the stock "A" cylinder. Is there something I should know? Man I hate second quessing my self. Any way that's it.

Forgot that's at kansas and oklahomo (usa) for baz) elevation. Maybe it has something to do with oklahoma blow and kansas sucks. Not my words just heard them somewhere. Or maybe that blower baz mentioned, Man I thought about that all day untill the beer and tequila set in and it went to twin blowers.

Ya know BAZ the rev pipe with stock porting and no head mod maybe part of your bottom end pulling problem as well. I know a lot of peolple don't like reed spacers however it and a bump in comp will help with your set up. The wave strenght and timming on the rev pipe is lagging not getting enough charge back into the cylinder. What's you runout rpm and power rpm range. I have found that the stock porting only is effencient up to 6500 rpm. You can rev past but no power. Do ya have a tac. "H" can probly make recomondation in regerds to wave timming. Not much for egt reading however you may not be getting enough heat in the pipe to work with in the rage it's built for meaning gas not hot enough to flow fast enough. hot gas flows faster. the cermic coating will help the hot gas from cooling down as much thuss flowing quicker thru the pipe and stuffing the intake charge that entered in the pipe back into the cylinder via increased wave strenght. Sorry the head was babbling again, wheres the beer. Never did get an ansawer on the still question out there.

You read my mind on the Tacho! Always wanted one, never seems enough time to do these things!
I have always felt that the revs are lacking at top end, but without Tacho...?? Who knows ,exactly, for sure.

I,m going to try to install one before the race on Sun am. Also my ol' mechanic, says the BR7ES is too cold for Northam.
Will try a hotter plug...rain forecast for race day,dratts! But will suit the mighty Pilot,more nimble! The bigger buggies get around the tight hairpins like" Overweight Breakdancing Hippo's" They cost me quite a few seconds!
First tho, have to finish my "Startrek meets Mad Max Bonnet". ...Baz

Rain on that track = mud?

Be ready, take plenty of duct tape and card board, make a temp belt guard to keep mud off the clutches, low tire pressure, install that screen we talked about they are great for mud, think about a duct tape extension on your visor.

CARFULL, the 7 preaty hot a 6 is usally used when below 5-c or 40 degrees. Most of the borad runs 9's and maybe sometimes and 8. I hate to see a hole in the piston. Also not knowing you fuel calculation 98 oct with stock comp may be retarding you Engine timming using 98 octane. Take a look at octane post and talk it over with your Engine builder for his recomendation. After all he the one that has to fix it.. If your 98 is equall to our 91 or 93 unleaded ,r m squared method your good to go. "H" had a good one on anti belt slipper, heard of the milk jug and tie wrap trick first for the cardboard and duct tape one. GO get those guy and keep the faith. Rich

Yeah,already thought about the clutches. Will be making up some side protectors from thick vinyl flooring off cuts I was given from one of my customers. Man I am cheap! Hope not as cheap as Nukem! Bonett is made from Ex shower cubicle plastic Covers from vinyl flooring Must have something to do with my Ex Architectural Drafting and Building background. What next?...Spiral tyre cutters fitted to rim centres, ALA! Ben Hur!

Well I got some more done today on the bonnet, what do you think?

HELL OF A JOB !!!!!!!!!

Like the number...........

G'Day Joe, thanks, and yeah ive always liked #2, 2 many drinks! 2 much to eat! 2 much fun! 2 much bullshit!
You get the idea! ...Baz

Nice
Could you post some info and pix of the mud flaps on the front fenders. I have thought of doing the same.

oh no doubt - right there with ya!!!!!