Hi i am new to the fl350. i bought this used and have been restoring it. i am a car tech so i know a few things. Engine has new bearings,seals,gaskets and piston. carb cleaned. i started it up after some breaking in and drove down the street the first time. no power at all and smokes a lot when i hit the gas. i removed the air filter and sprayed brake cleaner into the intake when this was happening to check for fuel starving- this was not it. i removed the muffler and this did nothing. grounded both wires to the neutral switch and no increase. i measured the resistance of the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) with a snap-on meter and according to the manual it has a bad CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) unit. does this sound right???? i am new to CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) ignition. will any CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) unit with the same connector work??? or how about a universal one for like kids race atvs???? any input would be apreciated. thanks paul.

Have you checked the compression?

All the brake cleaner I have used is non flammable so spraying it into a Engine would make a good fire extinguisher .

Any chances the piston was installed backwards, the rings end gaps should be on the carb side of the Engine not the exhaust side of the Engine.

I doubt its the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) I would look at everything else first.

THE PISTON IS INSTALLED CORRECTLY. THE PISTON RINGS END GAPS ARE ON THE INTAKE SIDE AND THE ARROW IS TO THE EXHAUST SIDE. THE BRAKE CLEAN I USED IS FLAMABLE. I WILL CHECK FUEL FLOW JUST TO BE SURE.

The Engine is smoking and acting like it wont clean out?

Remove the lid on the air box and see how it runs.

The carb and jetting is all stock ?

The choke is fully seated?

Were the two side wholes drilled into the piston before installing?

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All the brake cleaner I have used is non flammable so spraying it into a Engine would make a good fire extinguisher .



Try and use non chlorinated brake cleaner. It makes starting fluid look like a fire extinguisher. It will leave a flameable residue for over a half hour after wiping down.

I use what ever is on sale so far none has been flammable.

I REMOVED THE AIR BOX LID AND FILTER WITH NO IMPROVEMENT. AS FAR AS I KNOW THE CARB IS JETTED CORRECTLY. I don't KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT SIDE HOLES IN THE PISTON. I KNOW IT HAS TWO SMALL HOLES IN THE FRONT OF THE PIDTON. I DID NOT INSTALL THIS PISTON THE FIRST TIME, SO don't KNOW IF IT IS THE RIGHT ONE.
MORE INFO IS THAT THE IGNITION COIL IS A CHEAP HONDA LOOK A LIKE AND THE RESISTANCE IS NOT CORRECT. I AM LOOKING FOR A STOCK COIL TO ELIMINATE THIS POSIBILITY. THANKS FOR THE ADVICE AND KEEP THEM COMING.

I am sorry but I cant help you if your not going to answer my questions....


Kill the caps if you ever want me to reply again. WHENYOUTYPEINALLCAPSITLOOKSLIKEONEBIGWORDANDIAMNOTGOINGTOSTRAINMYEYESFORNOREASON!

Go ahead and spend hundreds of dollars changing electrical parts when you get done and it still don't work reread my questions and answer them maybe we can fix it.

Thanks

Here are the holes in the piston I think he is referring too, they add additional lubrication and cooling to the exhaust bridge, the FL350 has some special requirements to help prevent seizures, usually if these special requirements are not met the Engine is short lived.


Not only are the holes important but also relieving the exhaust bridge as seen here is important.
http://pilotodyssey.com/ExhaustBridgeRelief.htm

Since you did not perform the rebuild then you probably don't know if it was done or performed correctly, if it was mine I would remove the cylinder and see if it was, a cylinder gasket is cheap insurance, if it was not done and it seizes the piston your looking at about 150 bux minimum to replace the piston, hopefully it will not score the cylinder or twist the crank.

wiseco tech sheet

calm down hoser... i left caps on by accident. ok my piston has two small holes in the front. the brake cleaner is non chlorinated. the first thing i will try when i get home is removed the choke cable and check the choke piston fit in the carb. the carb was missing this part and i picked up a used one on ebay. the Engine does act like the choke is on all the time. if this is good then i will remove the piston and check it and drill the extra hole. THANK YOU! :)

And check the compression?


If the choke is ok carefully remove the line that goes from the crank case up to the fuel pump and look for signs of gas, if the diaphragm in the fuel pump is leaking it will allow extra gas to enter the Engine by bypassing the carb.

Before drilling the 3rd hole call Ed at Triple E 1-800-763-3762 see if 3 are required on the 350.
Ok we know the choke is ok, the compression is up to snuff, their is no extra fuel entering the Engine through the fuel pump pulse hose so we need to look at the carb.


The carb and jetting is all stock ?

The float setting is correct, NO gas is or has been dripping out the vent or over flow tubes?

This have a stock exhaust?

Their is a spark arrester plate on the stock muffler that can be removed so the collected carbon can blow out.

Any chances of a mouse nest being built in the exhaust ?

ok i checked the chock plunger. it does seat fully. i removed the carb and cleaned again. i checked the float and adjusted. i set the float level with pushing the valve spring down to its stop. the shop manual does not specify this. i set the needle to the factory recomended middle and air bleed screw to 1 1/2 turns out. i drained the gas tank and the put in fresh gas with 25:1 gas to oil ratio. the manual said 20:1 and i have read on this sight 32:1. i have a new piston and do not want to burn it up. if you tink this is too mutch oil and will make it run bad off idle then let me know. i checked the pulse hose to the fuel pump after warming up the Engine. no wetness in the hose.i have the air box removed compleatly up to the carb. i let it cool down. sarted up and it seemed to rev up better cold and declined when warmed up. it is late hear so i had to stop. tomarrow i will remove the exhaust pipe and check it. i don't think i will find anything there. i put it on the Engine and nothing came out or rattles in it. the jet is 152. in the manual it should be 142. does this sound right? again thank you for the advice.

ALMOST FORGOT THE SPARK PLUG IS NOT A RESISTANT PLUG. DOES THIS MATTER?

I was just gonna say it sounds like a fouled plug

You don't set the float level by compressing the spring!
Holding the carb on a slight angle, so that the float just makes contact with the little plunger,that is the point of measure, 16mm , 0.63in.Before install, I used to rig a Temp hose n fuel supply to carb,and move the float by hand up n down, to make sure the valve was actually shutting off the fuel supply.
Also the mold line on the float should be approx parrallel with the carb gasket edge...Baz

ok i will set it back tonight. i am going to call my cycle shop and try to get the stock jet and plug.

Caps by accident again I suppose?


Buy and install a resister plug their is a difference..

Is the spark plug cap look stock?

152 sounds too big to me if everything is stock I would put the jetting back to stock and try it.

Below is a snip out of the service manual, I have not been able to locate the Honda jetting recommended jetting advice for different elevations and different temperatures, this info is usually found in the owners manual maybe someone else has one and can scan?

Ok here it is I didnt look far enough, you need to adjust your carb to the conditions that best match your location.

So if where your going to ride your 0-5000' in elevation and 22 to 104 degrees you want a 142 the needle in the 3rd groove air screw out 1.5 turns from full in, consider this a baseline.

Needle

You own a service manual?

my log in is in caps so if i forget to remove caps lock it is an accident. i do have a factory service manual and have set the needle to the stock 3rd groove. my elevation is only 195ft. i live in western oregon close to portland. so the high altitude thing is not a problem. i am going to try the stock jet and new correct spark plug tonight. the needle jet in my carb is a chromed metal and not brass. does that sound stock?? i am wondering if that was replaced with a high flow one, if there is sutch a thing. again thank you for the advice and prompt responce. your advice has been great.

Can you remove the needle and see if their is any markings on the needle then post them here, post a pic or scan of the needle if you can, I don't have any 350 carbs handy to see how it would compare but their is plenty of other 350 owners here that might be able to help.

I took a look at one of mine.

Mine is shiney silver color with a hint of yellow.

On the the edge of the top there are markings.

a 3 a tiny B and a C

well the jet and spark plug did not fix it. i adjusted the float like you said and still nothing. i then dropped the float further. too far no run. so then up a little and bingo... it runs like it should. i drove it down the street and full throttled it to the max. runs a lot better. so just in case the float or float valve are bad i ordered a new set from the cycle shop. when it arives i will set the float to the correct spot and drive it. i have a trip to the duns with this for next weekend. i should have the float and valve by then. when i get back i will post were i have set the float. thanks