Hoser,
I think I'm pretty much stuck with what I have. I need the thumb throttle throw the same in order to pull the carbs WFO, so no machanical advantage would be gained. I can't use a foot throttle as it's cramped as it is, and I like how it is set up for novice drivers. The only think I can do is eliminate the oil pump and go premix. It does help relieve the throttle pull but does not cure the problem. If I do eliminate the oil pump then I'll have a cable made to go straight to the carbs and not into a junction block then to the carbs, right now it's stock cable to snowmobile junction block to carbs/oil pump. How much does the junction block add I don't know.
I have also toyed with the thought of a hydrolic throttle, much like the hydrolic clutch for dirt bikes. I use to own a KTM SX250 and placed a Maruga unit on it, made a world of difference in the pull. Just another one of my to do list.

Wayne

Yes I have that problem with my rotax pilot, Thumb ache, I like pilot controls, no room for a accellerator pedal (I have cutter brakes by my feet) I have thought of using a fly by wire type set up off a car etc so the actuator is doing the work. Or even some sort of stepper motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). A hydrolic line will help but with the extra drag from linkages etc you may not be any better off.
The 2 stroke, 4 stroke debate could go on for ever, four strokes last longer but when they do go bang cost a lot more to fix, I have a 2001 ktm 520 EXC and love it but if it does let go in a big way Its probably not worth fixing. I used to do a lot of motorcross and enduro and had a few cr, kx 500,s and not been around one for a while, until a few weeks ago we all went to a practice track and I got behind my mate on his cr 500, I had forgot how good those 500 two strokes sound and how much dirt they throw up

Haha I have one of the old cr500's and its amazing on how often i get out to the dunes and people with these new CRF450's tell me it wont even stand a chance.. prove them wrong

How about swapping the thumb throttle to the break lever?

Also, hydraulic isnt a bad idea. I havent done anything like that on one of my machines, but I know my bikes had barely any response lag and it was an easy fluid motion.

As I am sitting at the computer now there is a a program on discovery science about artificial limbs and the electric motors that make the limbs move are controlled by electrical impulses from the muscles. So its easy, put a sensor on my temple and a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) on the accelerator cable, if I think go faster it will pull the cable , if I think slow down HOPEFULLY it will shut off, If any one would like to test it first and let me know how it works

Akpilot, I have a question about the oiler on the polaris. I was having issues with too much oil bein injected so I just unhooked the oiler goin to the intake and left the oiler going to the crank bearrings with the linkage set at idle.
Do you think that will be ok? I've been running it for a while with no problems but I just want to make sure.
Thanks Brock

Buggyfreak34z
You disconected the intake oil tubes? are you premixing? If your premixing you still need to do one of two things. First keep the oil pump connected to the throttle and the low output oil lines so it can oil the main bearings, or drill out the weep holes in the top of the bottom case above the main bearings. These low output oil lines are vary slow, to prime the pump use a drill in reverse rotation and you'll see how slow they are. I hook up the high volume to the low volume just to fill up the oil lines then switch over when I'm priming.

With the oil pump there is a line on the case and a line on the arm these need to be lined up with throttle off, if not adjust. You can adjust it down for less output, I know on my Firecat the pump is not adjusted to the factory settings but off by about 1/8" for less oil but my dealer adjusted it for me.

I would either keep the oiling system or remove it completely. In order to remove it completely you need to remove the jugs and make sure the weep holes above the outer bearings is open, if not drill them. This weep system is not a reliable as the oil system but it has to be there. You have not experience a problem yet but if the weep holes are casted over you WILL have a problem. The outer most bearings are being deprived of oil (double row of bearings), they do get some by the crank pressure but not enough. The Polaris dealers suggest keeping the low output oil lines and premix but this does not elimate the oil pump or the cable to the oil pump.

Wayne

thanks Wayne. I do run premix and have the small lines still running to the case with the oiler linkage set at idle. I think I will do away with the oiler system when I do the top end.

The A-Arm relocation frame worked great. It's sure nice to get that out of the Engine bay!
Right now the diagonal brace and the frame stretching will just well tacked for now as I fit the Engine and trans into the frame.
Progress will slow down a bit as I need to make 10 sets of frame attachment fixtures. These fixtures are patterned after the roll bar attachment points. I'll need 3 sets (6 each) for the removable frame member for the secondary clutch, 4 each for the front of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), and who knows how many for the rear of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), or make hard mounts. With hard mounts in the rear I fear the trans will be a pain to get out. I need the Engine mounting points in the front of the Engine to be removable or else I'll need to remove the Engine out the top and I don't want to remove the cage to get the Engine out.

Wayne

Frame attachments.

Removable frame member for servicing the secondary clutch. I used this method on my FL800 and with great results. It was a no brainer for me to do it again, as I feel this is really strong. Another point is I'm using LT on these Pilots so the bottoming out forced are not transfered above this removable frame member as it would be in a stock Pilot, so how much force is really placed right here?

More on the removable frame member.

Progress will now will really come to a halt. This thursday my work is sending me to Vegas for the Fence Convention and I'll be gone untill mid Febuary. I will also be going to see my brother and his hopefully get his new sand car in the sand. It's a 2 seat busa car, should be fun.

Wayne

Any more updates?

Hoser,

I just got back to Alaska on Feb 13th to 15 more inches of snow, so it looks like I might get back in the garage this weekend if I get all my snowblowing done.

Next on the slate is robbing my Fl800 of it's RPM transmission and start mounting it into the Rage Pilot.

I think that the second hoop for the roll bar should be done next week and that should complete the frame stretch, then I can weld it all together. Since I did not widen the FL800, I think I'm going to use a % of the total width gained to determine how much to widen the roll cage. Example: I widened the back 2 inches then half way the cage should widen 1", sound good? I will also take into account what the frame/cage wants to do, hence don't put undo stress making it fit the formula, just see where it wants to be and what looks good. I'm liking the idea of extra room in the roll cage.

Wayne

Well I finally was able to spend some time on the basket case, been reinforcing the rust.

The bottom of the transmission/Engine cradle is rusted pretty good, so much so that I decited to reinforce the lower suspension mounts.

Wayne

At one point the bottom Engine/transmission cradle took a big hit, don't they all

Wayne

It's starting to look a lot like a Pilot! kindof

Well I got the second main hoop for the rollcage yesterday and wanted to mock up how it will look, well the bends don't match up very well at all. I was afraid of that, with the stock hoop and the new bent hoop being so close to one another I thought it might stand out. Honda uses a very tight radius on their 1.5" hoop, so I will be forced to have a second hoop made up. On the Fl800 I purchased a used hoop, but the cost of the roll cage and shipping made me look elsewhere this time. Oh well I guess IF I do another Pilot I'll already have a second hoop Or my wife will commit my arse.

Wayne

With the Engine/transmission cradle out it made it much easier to repair the rust and mount the RPM transmission. I took out the trans from the FL800 as my new one is still on order.

I made mounting tabs for plates that bolt to the sides of the RPM, the front tab will be a piviot point and the back and the top (hat) will be slotted so the trans can piviot forward. This makes for easy belt removal and more importantly allows me to use many different belts lengths (with in a certian range) by setting the belt deflection. I think the center-to-center distance between clutches changes 3/4" which translates to a 1.5" difference in outside circumference.

Wayne

Well, I set the Engine in this weekend. That's about all I can say, the light at the end of the tunnel is getting dimmer! Those high Engine mounts are going to be a bioach to build. Not only are they high but they need to be removable. I'll definately have a low center of gravity!

The Engine is so tall it will be .25" above bottom of frame and just clear the crossbar for the seatbelts. I'm thinking I'll need the seatbelt bar removable to remove the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). With the Engine so far to the right the Engine cradle will need to be cut back almost to the lower suspension mounts, it's still not far enough to the right in pic #001.

Hoser/Anyone, what is the safe height distance for the seatbelt bar to be at behind the seat? Can I move it up say 2-3 inches? Or does it need to be lower than the seat back height? On my FL800 it is the stock height but this monster is tall, I REALLY don't want to remove the cage to get that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) out!

Wayne

Any updates?

It's been awhile since I posted my progress here, but I have been working.

Wayne

Centering up the cradle in the chassie.

Wayne

Rear Engine mounts. I kept the Engine .5" from the bottom of the frame.

Wayne

The front Engine mounts were much harder to figure out. I needed them to be removable.

Wayne

been playing with styrofoam!

I decited to mock-up the tank in styrofoam so I could make a pattern. Hopefully this will keep the "opps I need a filler peice here" down to a minimum. With my FL800 it was MUCH more complicated so there was more filler peices because of the angles involved. I think filler pieces will stick out on this one, although the wrap-around peices will be challanging to make with out a lot of weld lines. I sure it'll have a few though.

I'm still waiting on the second hoop to be bent, it is holding up the filler neck, oil tank, radiator ect. Seems like everything is held up by that.

Wayne

Well I'm still waiting on parts for the Rage Pilot.....so I picked up a "quickie" project. I thought you guys might appreciate this one.

Wayne