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 Post subject: A turbo on a pilot?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:15 pm
Posts: 631
Location: Fredon,NJ
Is there enough heat and exhaust gas velocity in a pilot Engine to spool up a turbo? I think the older ford thunderbirds had a small enough turbo to use.

Just a thought.
Has this been done?
Any of the draks run turbos?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
Yah you can turbo a 2 stroke this small but there are better and easier ways to make power.

If for a turbo you are talking about a turbo off a ford 2.3 four cylinder thunderbird forget it. That turbo is about two to three and maybe four times the size needed.

By the time you go thru the trouble to build a pilot motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) with a hot turbo you would be farther ahead to buy a kit of someone who puts a twin Engine sled motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) in one with far less Engine problems.

There are builders now that can build a pilot motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to the high power edge of blowing up WITHOUT a turbo. So the gains would be little.

A tiny motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) about to blow from being built is not as much fun (and a lot more work) than a large motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) making more power running far more easy and reliable. Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:15 pm
Posts: 631
Location: Fredon,NJ
oh I do hear ya on the larger is better Nutz...that will be enough for me.....i just thought a turbo might be a cool idea...not saying it would be the best or most reliable way to achieve more power....maybe a device that whistles like a turbo when you crank it up. :-)

still wondering if it has been done.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
I have seen pilots with turbo setups but I believe they had other motors already. I sure someone somwhere has done it to a pilots orignal motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Be a few bucks but what aint?

For a good cheap turbo type whine you might look into some kind of bolt on addtion to the clutch near the bolt with tiny vanes (think like a washer type deal under the bolt with vanes on it.) Make sure it can deal with the RPMS first! Then a properly placed air duct or tube as the vanes pass by could be tailored to produce a sound that would alter with motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) revs. Could sound much like a turbo.

Just an idea that came to mind. Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3636
Location: Wichita ks
check out y-tube theres a video of one it is there with "H" ,fl670 and nukem racing up a hill.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
A guy from Kansas use to have one, I think he said it cost him 4500 bux for the turbo EFI mod after it poofkaboom he removed the turbo and sold on evilbay.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
I wonder who bought the Pilot, see where they welded over the serial numbers to hide them, then said it was not a STOLEN Pilot haha, only ONE reason to weld over numbers.... that so people cant read them..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Call aerocharger they probably still have his info on file and can tell you the current cost to install.

Never did hear what poofkaboom on it but I doubt you will keep any Pilot bottom end together that's making close to 100hp very long, it would be a high maintenance setup for sure, one you would want to carry a few spare engines with you, for the money IMO you be better off installing a STOCK 100hp sled Engine.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:48 pm
Posts: 1037
Location: CT
The tune is what is going to make it reliable. The set up pictured looks like it has a programmable Engine managment system. You could easily set a lower rev limiter and run a two stage boost controller. Low boost and lower rpm set up to run on 93 octane and make 60 hp (for example) then flip a swith and run high boost, 93 octane, and say 8,000rpm for a 100 hp. Have reliable fun on the 60 and kick some tail when needed on the 100 hp. The aerocharger is unique in that it uses ceramic bearings for the turbine shaft. This means that you do not need pressurized lube oil for the turbo. If you used the t-bird turbo you would need a pressurized lube system. This can easily be made from a metal tank and an electric pump. On a single cylinder turbo set up, your airbox NEEDS to be at least 4 times the size of the stock box. The pulses in the air box are strong enough to hurt spool time and idle quality if the air box is not properly built. The more cylinders, the smaller the air box. If you have a stock oem honda piston, scrap it and put in a forged one (wiseco) The heat from the added fuel/air and any detnation encountered while tuning the set up will destroy the cast piston. You will need some way of retarding the timing as boost comes up. (programable Engine managment unit) You will also need a carb that can be pressurized without blowing fuel out. I believe Keihns are ok to use, (I could find out for sure tommorrow)

For a turbo, the ford t-bird unit is a T-3, way to big
A garrett GT-12 is the smallest turbo that garrett makes. Good for 120-130 hp Also internally wastegated for simplicity.
Some pics of the GT-12 on a susuki DRZ400


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
King Kx wrote:
The tune is what is going to make it reliable. The set up pictured looks like it has a programmable Engine managment system. You could easily set a lower rev limiter and run a two stage boost controller. Low boost and lower rpm set up to run on 93 octane and make 60 hp (for example) then flip a swith and run high boost, 93 octane, and say 8,000rpm for a 100 hp. Have reliable fun on the 60 and kick some tail when needed on the 100 hp. The aerocharger is unique in that it uses ceramic bearings for the turbine shaft. This means that you do not need pressurized lube oil for the turbo. If you used the t-bird turbo you would need a pressurized lube system. This can easily be made from a metal tank and an electric pump. On a single cylinder turbo set up, your airbox NEEDS to be at least 4 times the size of the stock box. The pulses in the air box are strong enough to hurt spool time and idle quality if the air box is not properly built. The more cylinders, the smaller the air box. If you have a stock oem honda piston, scrap it and put in a forged one (wiseco) The heat from the added fuel/air and any detnation encountered while tuning the set up will destroy the cast piston. You will need some way of retarding the timing as boost comes up. (programable Engine managment unit) You will also need a carb that can be pressurized without blowing fuel out. I believe Keihns are ok to use, (I could find out for sure tommorrow)

For a turbo, the ford t-bird unit is a T-3, way to big
A garrett GT-12 is the smallest turbo that garrett makes. Good for 120-130 hp Also internally wastegated for simplicity.
Some pics of the GT-12 on a susuki DRZ400


He had a switch that he could flip that changed the boost he ran it on the lower boost most the time and only used the high boost at the drag strip, the thing flat hauled ass, I knew it would be short lived because of the crank bearing problem the Pilot needs dual bearings like they made after market for the FL250, then they last...


He ran a EFI throttle body thingie, not sure if he was able to adjust the timing I assume he could tie the computer controller into the pulse trigger of the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) and delay it to retard?

Image

If it would last it would be the hot setup for Pilot guys, I seen him ride a wheelie down a slight downhill on sand with paddles... I havent seen any twin cylinder sled Engine Drakarts or Pilots come close yet, cant beat that torque of a longer stroke single... Its just like th eold 350 Engine stadium lites in mud they always out performed the twin sled Engine powered cars.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Something I never noticed until I post that last pic was the wire running to the thing attached to the cylinder stud, knock sensor perhaps?

Blue arrow points to the injector.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:48 pm
Posts: 1037
Location: CT
I can't tell what that is from the pic. Typically you don't want to run a knock sensor on any forced induction Engine. The noise frequency from turbos and superchargers is enough to trigger a knock sensor into pulling timing.

That pilot sounds impressive
x2 on the crank bearing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
King Kx wrote:
I can't tell what that is from the pic. Typically you don't want to run a knock sensor on any forced induction Engine. The noise frequency from turbos and superchargers is enough to trigger a knock sensor into pulling timing.

That pilot sounds impressive
x2 on the crank bearing.


You can search my old site and find more details on this setup that's where I had originally post this material, I think the guy even came to the site to provide details.

The throttle response was instant if their was any turbo lag I didnt see it :-)


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