Looks good I bet you feel better now. I hate it when you cant sleep cuz all you want to do is work on your projects

Thanks, I do fell more comfortable with it operation. Once tested it's time to break out the cold ones and chase Drakman and others. They better have fuel because I will be ready to ride. I'll post up ics when shocks get here and also the new rear race set up.

Are you replacing the rear shocks as well? What shocks were you running before on the rear?

I,am wating for new front and rear shocks to get here ,already ordered. The rears are done and the front are being put together today. I presently use work triple rate in rear and dual rate in front with cans. The new ones will provide 14" in rear and 13.5 in front. I built two differeent type of shock relocate in rear to accomadate stock/work and new lt shocks. The new shock will bolt up to stock mounts so no upper lt brackets required. I also having the new built with low/high speed compression and rebound adjustable with cans. If you go with the atvr type you can not get rebound due to the long shock shaft hollowing it out for rebound make it to week for its lenght. This is why I changed the lever ratio changing the shock angle so I could get rebound adjust. They will big body and sprung( 3.125 in dia. ) I will post up data and setting when they get here and are set up. I opted for low and high speed so I can control body roll and maintain a soft high speed to take advantage of all the shock travle. They will dual rate front and rear. I also wanted to make a set up that could be changed for serveal application and conditions with out cutting and welding frame.

I have some front wheel lock pics and the rear race set up.

I measured up the lt and stock.
Stock: width - F=54", R= 59" and Hub center to center 62"
Wide body dune and trx: width - F=61, R=67/65 and Hub center to center 62"

I oped to maintain the hub to hub so the turning radius could be maintained. Longer and forward arm can just be bolted up to change set up.

few more lt and stock for comparison

One thing I think I should mention about the new bump kit is now that toe issue and wheel lock is resolved the negitive effect is the radius thru travle as the tires scrub. Before the toe offset the radius thu scrub and now it effect radius at wheel lock as it scub thu travle. So there may be one more change before done once I see what feed back is created thru wheel at lock and travle. Before there was zero feed back on off camber wheel lock hits. No kick.

How dod you like the works rear shocks on the pilot? I have the stock in the rear and they suck. When I do the LT to the rear I want to run the stock length shocks like your setup. What you doing with your works when your newones come in? Putting them on the other pilot?

The work work great for the stock set up. If you were to use them for wide body the need resprung and valved. The transition rate and valving with the lever ratio is off. Sandy at works can rework # for new design. The stock hoda shock have a longer shaft so if works could rebuild and sping thaat would give you another 1" of usable travle. The difference between stock and works is night and day. once you free up the rear bind at droop the reaction of the shock will even work better. The spring will not need to be so stiff to over ride the bind allowing a softer setting improving rear action and take some kick and packing out of it. If you go work I would recomend some adjusters since you race. Maybe even go dual ( woods /race)rate instead of triple (dunes/woods). The stiffer I fell will work better on track at speed. Yes I will be keeping mine and having them re worked for a back up set in caseof crash. Once you bought the works with adjusters you can get a full on race shock big body and sprung. I have used works for 20 years so changing was hard for me. They could not meet spec on shocks.

Something looks really wrong here with the angle of the outside tires

Looks like one tire moves further out than the other. Do the arms hit the wheel? Cant tell

No, they do not hit the wheel. They have 2" clearence from wheel to arm. I had a issue wiith it when I changed the toe thru rake and changed the ratio to fix. As the tires scub the clearence does change this is why I changed the ratio. The pic is particaly a optical illussion that is why I should pics looking strartight down.If anybody feels its a issue I,am listening. Rember its not a pilot front end its a trx

Only way I see it as a issue if it it could flip easier with that tight of turning. Or does it grip well with the rear widened?

It turns tight, thighter then stock. with the rear width it like to come around instead of bycicle. Changeing caster will dial the front end in ( slowing the steering).

What are you running for your camber in the front. I believe it looks like your getting bad positive camber as you turn the wheel. do you have straight on pics turned left and right to see the camber center and right to left?

Camber is at zero and caster is at zero toe at 1/4" in at sag I will double check before test. Been none to get in hurry and loose track of setting as I change set up . I will get turning camber #'s when I get back out to garage.

The trx uses positive camber when wheel is turned and set at zero. If I get to much I could, try to offset by adding some negitive at sag set up. I wll get numbers to use as a guide. For those reading post trying to follow, negtive camber is were the top of wheel leans in and positive camber is the top of tire leaning out. In this case I set it at zero and may be getting to much positive beacus I increased the turning radius of the hub. This may account for the excessive positive #. By backing out some radius via ratio on bump kit may resolve issue, if it is a issue the gauge will tell the story.

Turning radius always been a problem with a disc break comversion like a 400 ex set up. There is a conversion avalible for the pilot using stock hub and then fitting a disc set up to it which used will help breaking but does not provide any breaking rake on loading front end (dive)for cornoring. The stock pilot will lock up and push. I do have rake #'s on atvr long travle or yods arms so I do not know if the stock disc conversion will help on cornoring.

You should try and run 1 to 2 degrees of negative camber at ride height if your getting any positive camber when your wheels turn. Also you can adjust bumpsteer out with caster. Im running 2 degrees negative camber and 4 degrees positive caster with 1 degree of toe in

I went out last night to check #s at sag. I had the left set a zero/zero and the right camber at positive 2 and caster at zero. I adjusted back to zero and went to bed. I will try negitve setting and see what it does. The thing with the right side that is were the frame is bent. This side may take a little work and even a little frame work. With both side set the same the left is off on caster and camber. So the left and right will need different settingto get same results. This is an advantage of adjustable arms. The upper front adjustment is out kinda far so I may cut rear bung out and take 1" out then weld back in for propper adjustment and allow for futher adjustments. Man, a yahama set up on a honda, think anbody will notice and make me put on sticker. I wont tell the bike.

You know how it measures how does it handle? I ran mine for 3 years? and never measured anything just eye balled it in seems to work pretty good...

The old bump kit handles very well. I have not tested new bump kit yet. New kit being new idler and a-rrm re confiquire. The old kit was set up with the upper a-arms on backwards and the new idler is set up with upper a-arms on the right way. This may account for the positive camber set up. It is raining here and can not test. I like to set arms at a netural position ( base line) and than adjust logging change and handling notes.I will test with arms on both diertions before finalizing which to use. They look better( non hacker like) with them on the right way. My eye ball set is usally off and then changeing setting is a guess. When done I will try to get video for some one to upload for viewing. It's hard to ansawer questions using eyeball method. I enjoy all the input to help dial in and test results building data from the borads thoughts. You never know untill you try it. I would like to use this data for stock shock set up and then I will need to redo once the lt shocks get here. The base line setting will help set back to netural for lt testing. Plus I'am no "H" eyeballing would be bad if I did it. Whats you eye telling you. A little left or right come on give me your thoughts. I wont hold you accountable. Thanks Rich.

can you show pic's of new set up? shoubadabadabado (sp?) you got better bigger pictures of yours???

Why of course I can. I thought I already posted some where But will share again. You looking to do so hacking. I will share a nice set that afast car did based on ATVR set up. It a class act. His post is some ware on here but I have a pic.

I like your bolt on setup better than the ATVR I cant wait to see yours up close, if it works like I think it does I might have to get me one so I can add another 2" travel on the front of my Pilot, the idea of using the Honda tie rod ends is all me lol

It is time to start hacking/improving this setup... I have discoveered WHY I kept having my right wheel lock up on me, Pictures in the morning, but parts are bent that shouldn't be bent! I am trying to look at all these pics and then start collecting parts. Money wise the more I can use of whay I got the better! I don't have a lathe or much of a shop so i will truly be a backyard hacker... How or where did you incorporate the steer stops richard? I see how afastcar did his...


You mentioned that you changed this earlier in the thread is why I asked for more pics