Didn't like what I saw... The reeds have a layer of crust on them (oil/sand? or dirt?) so I think that I might have a compression problem. Won't know until I do an actual test, but this can't be too good for the internals. The carb as jetted at 155 with a 48 pilot jet, needle on the top clip. I'm debating whether or not just to tear into the Engine, yank the head, etc. I was hoping to go out again the weekend of December 5th, but that may not be feasible at this point. Well, I'll go out, but just not with my Ody .

In any event, if I have to rebuild, do we have a good supplier here that I can ship my cylinder to? I can do it locally, I suppose, but I'd like to ship it to someone that knows Ody's (piston lightening, etc.), and maybe get a bit of porting while its off.

I have a 36mmKeihin PJ coming, but I think I'll hold off for the 35mm PWK. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks again, guys!!!

Incidentally, I can turn the Engine over with my hand by turing the flywheel/clutch. Is this any indication of poor compression?

talk to hoser about boring and porting

TALK TO HOSER--do not send it to these fly by nighters that will email you instead of posting-they in most cases just ship it out anyway and don't even bore the jug properly--IMO.
Triple EEE is a fine place to send the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) but I am pretty sure ED and SARA have retired-try calling them-link is on Hosers page-he still does work in the back garage at his house when he feels like it to keep busy.BTW is the plug in when your turning over the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?If so you have a compression issue for sure.

You really should do a full on compression check. Carb wide open (Or off the machine) Ground the spark plug and pull it over a few times hard. See what the gauge says.

You can turn over most small engines by the flywheel or clutch like a CVT while they are in good running shape. The question is how easy?
Do you feel the compression build and it slowly eases off? Can you spin it fast and easy with NO noticable compression?

Different motors have different strokes and different porting so some do not close off the exhaust port till they are very high in the cylinder. (High revvers like Yamaha banshees and such have exhaust ports very high. Older enduro two strokes have the exhaust port FAR down the cylinder in comparison.) Some motors like the Polaris Scrambler 400 two smokes have a compression release built into the cylinder very high up that exits into the exhaust port. Turning then Engine over by hand allows this to bleed much of the pressure off. Its literally a hol drilled from the exhasut port to the top of the cylinder.

So a person who knows motors and especially he motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) they are working on might be able to spin it by hand and get a rough idea. But its no way to tell anything for certain.

If you got crud in the reeds its likely the airfilter was compromised and crap has been into the guts and took out the piston/rings/cylinder.

Good points. If I go out to garage today I will get some pics that may interest ya on what nutz said. Theres a way to get an idea on ex port duration without taking it apart. If you what to learn hands on ask and do top end your self if needed. Go slow and take the right steps to first determin theres a problem before you tare it done. If not comfortable than use some one that knows what there doing and will stand behind it. Down time sucks while everone else is ridding.

Starting with the comp check and since you intakes off take a peek inside and look around. Your compressiion reading will be higher with the reeds and crab off less restriction to flow. Once you log reading, dump a cap full of two cycle oil thu plug hole and re check if reading raises more than 10% of first reading you may have a problem. If you crank the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) with carb off and reeds out and compression guage installed ( not spark plug) put some pre mixed fuel in a spray bottle and spry in intake so you don ot dry run and create a siezure. I use fogging oil for this( coates piston,rings and bearings) as not to cause damage. The friction from cranking the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) will swell the piston and stick it if dry. Compression reading is a good pre and post ride gauge of motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) life and preformance. I always recomend a hour meter for motors it helps log accual time and numbers. Every herd it olny had 40 hr on it. How do they know. I believe this came about because the average work week is based on 40 hours a week. Standards, what is standard.

Crud does not belong on the reeds. If your changing carbs this will require some jetting changes. Very seldom does one just bolt up and run right. Read up on jetting "H" has a lot of great info here for that. One change at a time so you do not chase thing and get frustrated. Make sure it bad or wrong before changing every step of the way. OH ya we like pics. Have fun.

I Know Adnoh knows this hands down but I just wanted to add for those who might not that this above is for COMPRESSION TESTING ONLY "WITH THE SPARK PLUG OUT!!!!" If you put premix in the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) with no carb or reeds and pull it over it COULD start. Talk about wide open throttle!!! lol Some may think this cannot start this way nor will it but it can and MAY. If it does and there is enough fuel the machine may take off by itself! It may not try to rev quick but it may and even if it does it slow you may not have time to react to bring it to a stop. Plus going form cold to massive revs can do damage to the mtor even if the machines restrained or hits nothing.

This is usually based on how expensive of a thing is in front of it (Murphys law!). If its something you cherish and/or cost a fortune then the machine will plow into it like nobodys buisness. Doing horrendous damage of course.

Never crank a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) over with the spark plug in and no carb. Especially if any kind of fuel mix or ether (starting fluid) has been used Then you will be much safer/better off. Even a Briggs/Stratton 3.5 horsepower three wheeler is pretty quick/fast with no human weight on it. Ask me how I know..... Luckily mine hit a fence right near the post that actually to my surprise stopped it. Bill

Checking the compression with the carb off will give you a higer (false) reading than checking the compression with the carb on and holding it WOT (Wide Open Throttle) while checking the compression, same goes with the rest of the intake tract, rubber boot between the carb and air box, filter etc.

Years ago I did a post showing the different compression levels on a Pilot with just the cylinder installed, then as I added each component I would test the compression to see how it was affected, add, pipe and check, add reed cage and test, add carb test, add rubber boot, test add air box test, add air filter, test.

YES the battery was on a charger and the no load battery voltage was checked before each test to ensure the batter was not lower as I added things.

MAybe I will do this again when I assemble Hares top end..

I agree with no plug on wet testing it's the thrid thing in the fire triangle. Its good to make it very clear since I do sometimes fail to do so. I edited post now that I now where it is. Thanks.

"H" when you do it throw on a vac/pressure gauge to the fuel pump port. . Do testing with diff reed blocks and reeds installed and then bolt up diff pipes and carbs and tube lenghts and dia. Then raise BEMP a little and retest. Then throw in you LT and stinger #s It will make you go UM. Like you don't have enough to do.

I went out and got a compression test gauge. The compression checked in at about 133 with the carb/intake/reeed off. Does this sound ok? I remember reading somewhere that the stock compression was about 135 or so. Even with a bit of loss once I mount the new carb and manifold, if I onluy lose 5% or so, I'm inclined not to rebuild it.

I think the 350 is 138 psi

You need to check it in running condition meaning all the exhaust and intake systems in place then hold the throttle wide open when checking, checking it with intake parts off like the carb or intake will make it read higher, hard telling how close to the 138 is when your checking it with intake stuff off.

Thanks Hoser, I'll do that. And if it is indeed low, are you the person I can send the cylinder to for re-boring/porting? Thanks!