Only took 45 minutes of beating and running the impact gun on these bolts to get them out heh

Its hard to see in the pictures but both bolts are bent and need replaced, the holes where they pass through are also worn some, cant tell how much until I get new bolts to feel for slack.

That is one F-ulgy pilot!

did you ever try Loctite 638™ Retaining Compound

http://www.useloctite.com/products/prod ... g%20Parts#

Maximum Strength Slip Fit
Maximum strength retaining compound for use where high dynamic force or cyclic loading is expected.
Typical Applications: Loose fitting parts
Cure Time: Fixture - 5 minutes Full - 24 hours
Max Gap Fill: .015
Temperature Resistance: 300°F
Shear Strength: 4500

I use this stuff on nut and shafting that I don't want it coming a part
only with heat above 300°F


thanks Speed

I think I would be exceeding the max gap fill

Got the clutch puller..

I chased the rusted threads in the clutch with a tap, chased the threads on the puller with a die nut to remove dirt and and to fix any threads on the puller that have been banged up while being tossed around over the years then greased the threads well, the puller would not pop the clutch off even when using my strongest impact wrench so I removed the puller and pumped the hole full of grease with my grease gun then screwed the puller back in and hit it with the impact then it popped the clutch right off, messy but it works every time, when you screw in the puller it builds pressure and helps force the clutch off the crank.

Plenty of rust on the crank, we ALL need to start lubricating this area with oil after each ride trip, the rust creeps into the clutch taper and under the crank seal

A ZOOM spout oiler does the trick they are cheap, think the last ones I bought were 2 bux each you can refill with your favorite oil they last years have 100 uses everybody should have a few, act now and I will include bla bla bla OH just get one or more they make great stocking stuffers! http://www.zoomspoutoiler.com/pricing.htm

Inside the clutch taper

Clutch pics

Now the clutch is off I can remove the starter but look they used the wrong bolts to install the starter, more Pilot molestation this has to be the most molested Pilot I have seen yet, oh and it don't get any better.. Read on.

Here is the balancer, whats wrong with this picture?

All I see is a shaft, what balancer?

Disclaimer: I have yet to have a reason to be inside one of our pilot engines.........

Split the cases, no effort required, both bearings came out of the cases real easy, not a suprise that is why you could slide the crank in and out so easily.

You can see where the bearings been spinning in the cases,,, but why? Figure it out yet? I already gave you the answer well I post pics of the answer...

Close up of seal surface, see the RUST, that rust was under the crank seal, it was between the outer and inner seal lips, ever look close at a crank seal it has two sealing lips, the outer is like a dust seal to protect the inner seal that actually seals your crankshaft, if you use the zoom spout oiler and oil outside the seal it cant rust, using thin oil like 5w will allow an film of oil to remain on the crank but not enough to attract large amounts of dirt.

heard through the grapevine that I have been nominated for " most molested PILOT of the decade award "

I am honored.

Congratulations!

Your Engine is second to Ludes Pilot Engine, who knows if his Pilot was anything like his Engine he might hold the title for the complete Pilot too.
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3402

Its a title someone had to hold, I am sure you have seen motorcycles, cars, trucks in the same state of affairs, my son is doing a great job at molesting everything he works on, cant get him to understand when you get done working on something it should look factory, I am not sure if its youth or maybe he just don't care I do know he is good at leaving his mark on anything he repairs, I can only hope he grows out of it.

While this is painful for you I am sure it will help many others in the future, we realize your not responsible for what we see here, well maybe some of it, I know how busy you have been with work in the past few years I am surprised each time you say your going riding that you have the time, bottom line is your the owner do what you want I am honored you have trusted me to work on your Pilot hopefully it will serve you well for many years to come.

Trans completed and reinstalled.

New final shaft, new final shaft seals, reused old case gaskets, new stub shafts...

Ok after digging around for a while I found your spare balancer, it looks ok I will clean off that surface rust.

See the difference?


Anybody want to buy a "billet" "racing" Pilot balancer shaft? Not the route I would take I would just remove the whole balancer and use a electric water pump.

Come on Hoser, looks the same to me j/

Ha!

I'm not as think as you dumb I am!

Ever think the guy just could not see the alignment marks. Wonder how much vibration was created. Some one did not do there piston speed math. How does the Engine mounts look no cracks, or did the mains take all the abuse. I would defenty use new crank now. If you scrap those case halfs I 'll buy them for prototype mock up cases.

Ody_Stable, what you said makes since to me.

Look at the balancer, they took the stock one apart and made a new shaft without balancer lobes on it, no alignment marks necessary assume to reduce weight, need to see if I can get it to the post office to see how much weight they saved.

I was making a joke. bad atempt. I believe they removed it so it would rev quicker and at a higher rpm. By doing so it would vibrate and the harmincs would effect the crank train which effect the bearings setting loose in there journels. Something must take up the shock load force. These forcesare traslated to the the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts and transmisson and mounts. Tryin to rev past the max piston speed just makes it worst. If you kept it tight one could run with out balancer but why. In this case the engineers know best. I would check the fly wheel weight.

Putting the bottom end back together you can see where some JACKASS took a screwdriver and a hammer to split the cases, WTF was this person thinking? How can someone be this dumb? HONDA CAST bosses into the cases where you can take a hammer and brass pin and TAP the cases apart the guy that used the screwdriver like a caveman must have either been really really STUPID or blind!

Matching DAMAGE on other case.