Recently purchased a used Kawasaki TECATE 3 wheeler, I always wanted one and the price was dam small, so I got it!!
I knew going in it was gonna have some issues, and it does for sure.The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) looks to be toast, top end is a nightmare, has some slight issues on the suspension as well, but the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is the target currently.Here's some pictures for you, motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) as well:

That poor motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Nothing sir "H" caint fix.They were known for bad stators. Be sure to carry a spare. My friend road one and we called it frankin stine. It was al stiched up.

more pictures:
I want to ride this not restore it currently.I am trying to understand why the crankcase was filled with ATF FLUID still too?? yup, you heard me ATF fluid in the case-dunno----see pictures

more,it is missing a lot of little stuff which can be purchased it seems.I need a new jug, looking for a 83-84 kx 250 jug.

Mud
I think I saw this trike on the C.L.
Lots of fun when they run...cannot keep the front tire on the ground
Lean hard and full throttle
Go Ody

Isn't ATF tranny fluid. Sorry just being a smart _ _ _. Heck I have seen gear case oil in them as well.

reeds look to me like they got moisture in them,and when I took the intake off there was no gaskets at all on either surfaces for that matter.I'll see if Hoser is interested in a CSI on this.I found a new jug but it is big bucks on Ebay-still looking for a jug.The reeds, silencer and pipe, etc are all obtainable still, axles, rear carriers, etc, shocks to in fact!!

It looked like trans oil to me on the reeds. Maybe why it had atf in her. finger the pipe and give her a wiff or lick if you dare. May also account for some of the ware on the piston skirt. Atf doesent seam to carbon up plug and ex port as bad on but is just as bad for the piston. Or the fuild could just be antifreeze from a blown haed gasket. The heads tend to warp. Another thing is the head stay. After bolting up the Engine if the bolt does not install with prying stop and solve.Seen a lot of 250 stuff that they pried the head stay bolt in and tore loose a stud. Any way have fun, Lucky man.

from 3 wheeler board:

Oem Tecate cylinders work very well. Don't discount them at all. But, 85's are faster! Yes the kx cyl has an advantage, but you need the correct tune up to take full advantage of it. And never have a cylinder sleeved. They will not make as much power as replate. Your cylinder has the common "core shift" problem. These as well as early kx cyls were plagued with poor casting techinque. But, Kx cyls had probs on exhaust bridge too. The situation is not as dire as it appears. It's not a complete fracture, and has been there since the cylinder was cast. You have a non sleeved cyl there, so i would opt for a replate. Any reputable plating company will assess condition and go from there. I've used U.S. Chrome for all my plating kx-kxt cyls

here's a link to the thread:

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/group.php? ... d=23&pp=10

antifreeze came out clean, and the rad showed no signs of oil in it at all.

looks fun .. for the guy who has it all hehe ..

Got a new OEM jug off Ebay today-the old jug will be sent to US CHROME for replating -the bridge issue will be dealt with by them, it seems to be common problem with the jugs on these motors, the rep at US told me they have done hundreds of them-so we will see.I need a piston kit, new OEM head, crank bearings,gasket kit,and the rod will be dealt with too, that's gonna be up to whats found when a CSI is completed.

Is that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) the same as KX250? I have one sitting in my garage that I am tired of tripping over. I do not know the condition, year or anything about it. It came with a lot of other parts I bought, I had dreams of building a go cart or something like that, but have no time.

It is free to a good home, (you pay shipping) as long as I don't see it for sale on ebay next week.

Anyone wants it, let me know, other wise its off to the scrap yard.

Doug

I had a pair of 84's back in the mid 90s, one was a A-1 model and the other was a B-2 model. I had my first good bone jarring wreck on one...ah fond memories..lol Anyway I may still have some spare stuff and a manual somewhere buried in the garage, free to you if i can find them. No shit on the stators, I bought 2 Ricky Stators when mine went out. I picked up a nice titled 85 ATC125M for a $100 from a neighbor, kids have been riding the crap out of it and it really does well in the snow suprisingly.

Gary

thanks, but that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is a much newer year then mine, the cylinder,head,all are different.But thanks anyways!

If you can find it, let me know I'll take them all.Please PM me for payment Gary!!

Got a OEM 70mm piston and ring set today-gasket kit,rod kit,new OEM jug,and some other parts for the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).Found them all off EBAY and BIKE BANDIT

good find.ive always had good luck with bikebandit.

Went into the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) this morning, the head appears fine and the burn pattern on top pf the piston looks fine. As usual the aftermarket gaskets do not look as they line up perfectly on the top of the jug as most do not I'll take some pictures and post them later for you. The jug will be taken off today as well.

Well, after going into the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) tonight-got some measurements and some information.First, the jug bolts were hand tight-YUP hand tight!!!This thing must have had 1 hell of a air leak and sucking air badly for sure.The wristpin is seized in the piston, I had to tap it with a ball pean hammer to get it to slide over for removal.The COMETIC base gasket was never sealed, cut, and just a dam mess.Got some measurements off the internals:

Jug bore top: 69.74mm
Jug bottom: 69.85mm
Piston top: 69.67mm
Piston bottom: 69.87mm
rod top ID: 21.99mm
wristpin OD: 18.01mm

heres some pictures for you to view- http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww33 ... or%20pics/

The jug is not cracked as first discussed-the pictures show it is a casting flaw in the cylinder,but it still needs to be sent out for re-plating and a piston for sure.The bottom end was remarkably clean-I couldn't take the stator off as I don't have the correct puller-which sucked for sure.Please let me know what you think about the pictures.

more pictures:

Rod checks in within clearances service limit is 22.05mm I am at 21.99
end play is within clearances as well on bottom end of rod (side to side play).The rod seems tight-there's no side to side play, no discoloring on the rod at all,the clutch side case came off with no gunk in the cases.

OK, got a question.I need to take the stator off, to split the cases and also to check the crank seal.My puller is a 27mm and it says it can be used for KAWASAKI'S but after a good look, it can't be.heres a picture of my stator:

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/popu ... 53&image=0 flywheel

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/popu ... 99&image=0 puller

see there is no threads in the middle to screw a normal puller into it like a honda would? Has anybody ever puller a stator off like this?I see the 3 bolts holes, in your opinion would like a steering wheel puller work in this application?
I have checked several sites for other pullers, does not appear to be one made aftermarket for this special application.

Got the stator off tonight, and then tried to split the cases.I do not have a case splitter, so I was just trying to split them using a tiny rubber mallet as it has been described to me on the 3 wheeler board as "they will just split aprat with your bare hands" which didn't happen at all.I got the rear on the cases loose, and I double checked everything to make sure I didn't leave a snap ring or collar, bolt,etc in, which I didn't.Any ideas on how to split them without a case splitter?
I wanted to have the crank checked and after speaking to Hoser in the chat I double checked the crank and it does have some play in it-I think it is best to get it checked and a rod kit installed.

Have been trying to get the cases split apart,the bosses aren't enough for me to get them apart so I have been looking into case splitters and I have found some like this:

http://www.sudco.com/tool.html#950-479

which has the 6mm bolts I need to screw into the case and it is adjustable for several cases.Have you guys ever used a splitter like this and if so was it acceptable?I know Hoser splits his with the bosses, but this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))'s dowels I think are rusted together and the crank may be a interference crank as well.
I received the new OEM jug.piston, and ring set today as well as my V-FORCE reeds.I also sent the old jug out to US CHROME for re-plating.
Any help or tricks of the trade for splitting these cases, or a tool you have used for multiple case splitting you can give me are greatly appreciated.