Ordered and received a MOTION PRO case splitter,which at first was confusing, but after sending my wife off to the nail salon(don't ask!) I took some time and got it right.Worked flawlessly and man did they pop, not like a clutch but enough for me to say "oh man" I though it had snapped the case! Now mind you I haven't for 15 years split a case, so everything here is new to me.The cases have no gasket between them, and that's stock, checked in the manual.The cases inside were quite clean, but I expected that due to the ATF that was run in it prior to my purchase.
Now I have a couple questions mabye you guy's can help me out with.The crank bearings themselves, do I need to heat the cases up to remove them from the case?Or can I remove them with a bearing installer and dead blow hammer? Also, it is like 15 here, should they at least be room temp before trying to remove them?The garage isn't heated and they are pretty cold to say the least.I'll need to check the run-out on the crank, and I am going to replace the rod totally as well while it is apart.Do you guys have any pictures of your run out blocks by chance? Also, the lapping of the cases, do you use 400 grit wet.dry paper or lapping compound?600 grit? piece of glass of another method?

ive lapped my cases before with a piece of glass and 400 wet/dry and never had a leak.as far as the bearings.i would definitley take them in the house too warm the cases up before you try removing them.hope this helps.jim

Couple questions:
the transmission gear shafts have to be meshed together as per the manual, question is I have not taken the actual gears off the splined shafts or in anyway screwed with them, is this what the refer to as "meshing' the gears together?Does the 2 transmission shafts have to installed in the case in a certain pattern to make it shift correctly?Are there timing marks that have to be aligned on these shafts as well?
The crank bearings, the manual is confusing to me, do you install them on the crank then into the cases,or vice versa? It seems to me you install the bearings on the crank, then insert into the cases-
The removal of old gaskets on the surfaces-there's little bosses on some of the areas making lapping of the impossible what do you use then in this situation?
Timing on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )),just the mag on the side case at TDC (Top Dead Center) is needed?

Thanks for the help Jim-appreciate it.I viewed this thread from Garlic Greg

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=6572

I was speaking in the chat-I can't bring the cases inside and heat them up as the wife has put the stop on it, so do I heat the bearings up under the lights like in the thread and leave the crank outside in the cold to install themI am working in primitive times here-wife has got to understand!!!!

bosses ? do you mean the alignment pins for the cases.can you post pics.

no basements in jersey mud.yea its really cold here too.i also have no heat in the garage yet.maybe this summer.

I do mean alignment pins, not dowels, they have been removed.I'll get pictures for you in a minute here.

I looked closer at the cases and it appears I was wrong about these pins on the cases, there is none.I will enclose pictures of the cases, there's a area underside of the crank that's appears to be heat cracked-you be the judge.See the discoloration on the crank bearings/they are brownish in color, is that water related or heat? They spin but there's resistance on them for sure.

More

that's just casting flaws nothing to worry about.the bearings look like slight surface rust to me.

in pic 748.64 KB look at the top right ball is that shmegma on it or is it pitted

after some chat talk, Hoser has instructed me to install the bearing in the cases first-if you installed on the crank how would you get the bearing into the cases straight?-it could cock-very simple.He is the man for sure.Thanks Hoser.

Cleaned the case halves today-and then proceeded to take the seals and bearings out as well.I heated them with a torch lightly, and they popped right out-I included the sprocket shaft as well, as it looked trashed and wasn't freely turning by hand.I am waiting for the new seals/bearings for these cases,and I need to lap them in the week coming as well.

brass wire brushes is what i use to clean aluminum

Spent most of the day cleaning the cases,cleaning and running thread chasers on all mounting holes,cleaning up all threads on the bolts,and slowly removing the old gaskets off the cases before lapping. Prepped the drivelines for insertion into the cases and ordering some more parts as well.

Just waiitng for parts on this project,need to lap the cases this week, and then check the crank run-out when my new V BLOCKS arrive.Got the OEM new jug,piston but no rings, when I get them I'll check the ring gap and piston clearences all at the same time.I'll need to look into Hoser's TECH center for piston prepping,then mabye some looks at the reed area on the jug to see if I can clean up any areas on it I or we think are in need.The shift fork, and gears are all ok, the mic'd in within tolerances and the gears have no visible wear at all, the shafts are within tolerances as well.The clutch is junk, need to order a new complete kit, the friction plates are low and the clutch plates are scarred from heat-junk.
I ordered some more parts for this, chain kit with sprockets,carb, air filter,PRM grab bar, skid plate for the swinger, rear carrier bearings, swinger bearings,radiator,OEM kill siwtch, OEM headlight switch,grips, throttle cable, clutch cable,clutch lever assembly,rear shock,and all new bearings on the cases with seals, I am going to change it all, nothing is going to be saved but the OEM CASE halfes.

Got some new parts in for the project, not enough to start the Engine rebuild yet-but hopefully soon.

I like new parts and tools lucky man. As you do your top end would you be so kind to supply all the piston and ring fitment numbers on the chrome cylinder and ring type and info as well. Thanks in advance.

Mudbogger just a heads up.the head gasket you have there is some kind of antiseize gasket paper material.i just did 2 topends on 2 little 85 rm80s for my buddies nephews and they were the same kind of gasket material and both had water leaks from the head gasket.i went and got another set and 1 sealed and one didnt.when i took them apart the paper part of the gasket started flaking and falling apart. its that paper material they used it doesnt do well when it gets old.just something to watch for.hope it helps jim

Thanks for the information Jim. Adnoh- I will list all the measurements on the topend for you, np.

Just an awesome project! These trikes were so much fun, I have always wanted to get my hands on a 350x.
Regards

350X's are still out their just keep an eye out for one, search evilbay and craigslist daily...

I have 1 with a brand new top end on it, I haven't even picked it up yet.New piston, first overbore,rings, valves,everything replaced, bottom end was looked at as well from Honda dealer-I will sell it-has alot of extras and goodies, SUPERTRAPP slip-on, jet kit-new plastics,handlebars, tires and rims-got all receipts if needed and it has a clean title as well-

everytime I turn around it seems like muddbogger has another toy
Does anyone remember the line from Jack AKA the Joker in the 1989 Batman movie
He makes a ref towards Bruce "Where does he get all those wonderful toys"
Just a thought

LOL-I prey on losers and meth heads usually, but the occasional drunk often comes into the picture!!!

here's a current pic of the ride before it went out for Engine work.

Very nice indeed! My uncle had one and my cousins each hand there own 125 Honda ATC
at least I think they were 125s... I later got my hands on a suzuki 125...I thought I was King shit