Where are the 94C guru's how does this clutch come apart for servicing ?

I was under the impression they cannot be taken apart for any reason.

Yup you can I cant find my manual for it .

I've had a few, including a new 94C-90D set in the garage, but it has no manual in the box and I don't recall ever having one fail or even need to be taken apart.

First off, disassembly of the "Duster" or 94C is very simple. If the clutch is removed from the sled, simply install the puller, cup the moveable in your hand & tap the puller lightly. The cover is simply an alignment and "tap" fit for reinstallation/retention. Tuning options are the spring, the wedges or "pucks" & the cover profile.

Simular to other Comet clutches, there are different color springs to control engagement & shift rate. These springs are a smaller diameter than the 100C - 108C and do not interchange.

Another varriable in tuning is the "pucks". These vary in weight by the size hole in the center which may be 3/4", 7/8" or 1". The larger the hole...the lighter the puck. Simular to other Comet clutch tuning, a lighter wedge increases engagement & Engine RPM will be higher as the clutch shifts out than it would be with a heavier wedge.
There are a total of 9 wedges...and you can change the quanity & weight of the wedges to tune the clutch. You can even mix wedge weights (proper placement is required to maintain balance).

The final tuning component is the cover. The cover angle plays a huge role in aggressiveness of engagement. What is important to note is that the wedge angles must match the cover...so you can not change the cover without having a complete different set of wedges to tune with.

Bottom line, the Comet 94C is not designed for the higher H.P. output of many sleds...but is tuneable for that vintage trail sled, drag sled or oval racer.

http://vintagesleds.com/bs/index.php?topic=38072.0

OK, I must have serious memory fade....

I have played with the pucks on numerous occasions years ago, I still have a large bag of pucks, gotta be 30-40 of them in there. I was tuning them to lower the engagement speed (opposite of most people) for the smaller kids. Our current 250 has a 94C too among other major Engine mods (which I have yet to dig into to fully list), it was built by a CHP fleet motorcycle mechanic and it really screams, so he did something right. Someday I will have to do Engine work on it, but it doesn't need a thing now, so I'm not touching it.

I was always happier with the 94C than the PB clutches, the PB's required more maintenance and lubrication than the 94C's, the 94C's could go 50-100 hours between lubing, but the PB's nylon sheave would bind if it wasn't lubed every 15 to 20 hours, probably not an issue if you're racing, but with a bunch of teenage girls riding I felt better knowing I wouldn't be doing constant last minute maintenance.

but the PB's nylon sheave would bind

You mean a nylon bushing?

Are you trying to get to the pucks? If so, hold the clutch a couple inches above the workbench with the stem facing up like shown in pic 6101, grasp it by the "outside" movable face , then tap the stem(threaded part)(pic 6102) downward,I use a wood dowel or something as my BFH. the stem will seperate from the puck pressure plate(part with Comet Duster Label/manual calls it the "outside cover") allowin access to the spring and pucks. Good luck w it

Yup trying to get at the movable parts so I can inspect, clean and lubricate them, I will give it a go, also so tpreed can see the inside and know how to care for it in the future, thanks!

Yes, I think I brought this up a few times on the old board, too bad there's no way to recover that.

What do you mean recover it, the conversation?

I have one of them clutches in my shop it has a white plastic bushing the later clutches has a impregnated bronze type bushing that needs no lube, I talked to Harold at HRD about the bushing and he laughed and told me to throw the clutch away buy new, his typical reply is to buy one of his new clutches lmao, its why I don't like him, anyways if I ever go to use this clutch again I will remove that plastic bushing and make a new bushing out of graphite impregnated bronze (think that's what the newer bushings are) and try it, right now even when lubed its hard to slide the movable face off the shaft of the fixed face.

Since they changed bushing materials my guess is the plastic replaceable bushing was a mistake

Yeah, no way to restore those threads.

No doubt it was a BAD idea, I've never seen one with anything other than the nylon.

When it was cold it worked well, but after it warmed up it would bind, wet sand it a bit and the binding went awat, but then oit would pick up particles of sand and with the extra clearance the sand would become impregnated in the nylon and start the binding again.

Vicious cycle.........

Here are pics of it apart, what parts get the comet lube?

I ran this clutch on one of my old fl350's. Randy from odysalvage told me to coat the pucks with comet lube, let them dry and do it again, both sides. I had those same pucks in the same position with the white spring (higher stall than orange), seemed to work pretty well.

I bought 3 extra pucks, a white & a yellow spring, but, have yet to try them out.

On #11
The shaft will thread out of the face plate had it happen on my odyssey because I heated the clutch to pull it off my Engine

I put red locktite on it and impacked it back in

Clutch stuck open by one puck 3 remain no drive.....ok so no lube poor adjust over rev any other cause looks like another learning curve!!!!