I've been trying for a few weeks now to remove the darn things. I've been spraying with penetrating oil at least two times a day. I'm trying my best to not just start beating on them.

so anyway i got this wild idea to somehow vibrate the cups to work the oil into the splines and losen up the rust. So here is my idea. let me know what you think.

I used foam caulking/weather strip to create a dam to puddle the oil otherwise it was just running off.

I used a concrete virator to vibrate the stub, time will tell if it works.

Get a older MATCO slide hammer kit-install the fork ends on it and it will fit right over that stub-the forks need to be 5 inches long, or fab up 2-3 'L' SHAPED pieces of steel on the end of it, clamp them on with those hose clamps, and hit the slide-they will pop right out.I use it many times on the stubs.My Matco slide hammer kit is a BT-960S for your records.It has 2 sets of forks, the longer ones work well.

Have you used a heat gun yet?
It will help by expanding and contracting the CV stub,plus heating the spray oil for more efficient penatration.That with your MAN VIBRATOR might just do the trick.

I use a large bearing splitter clamped around the axle stub. On each end/side of the bearing splitter are threaded holes where I install a large slide hammer into each hole. Bang/pull each slide hammer at the same time and it will come out. This method doubles the hammer output and by using two hammers it does not cause you to pull/MUTT the stub when trying to remove it.

Tying the Pilot off to something solid like a wall of car, might help get more energy into the axle when pulling on it with a slide hammer.

I like those jack stands... Are they old Ford differential housings?

Thanks for all the replys - i'm sure i'll get em out. New axles are $550, only one side still available. Did not get a price on the final, but according to hillside it is on BO. Thought it would be nice to have a couple extra axles and final but man your talkin about $1200 or more. i think id buy another pilot before i spend that much on parts. The guys who have these new oem parts are sitting on gold.

Hillside also said one of the seals is discontinued 91223-VM0-004 and the other was BO 91254-HE0-003. Guess i'll just order the seals through my local bearing house. Does anyone know if these seals are special at all, like the addition lip on the rear bearing dust seals?

31kah - How old are you? you've got a good eye. My father made those stands years ago and i know they are differential housings but not sure of the make. Wish he was here to ask. He made three sets, three different heights. I've used these stands all my life and would'nt sell them for anything. They are OLD school for sure. Amazed you noticed, put a big smile on my face, hell i thought i was the onlyone who knew what they were.

Ford Banjo Rear end
here is a pic off goggle

Diamond T tucks had the one's three to four time the size of the ford
the center section are use on most old oil drilling rigs


SpeedChaser

LOL, well those banjo housings were WAY before my time... I am in my mid 30's. My dad has a bunch of old Fords I grew up working on. Ford used the banjo style from '28 to '48. Yours look like the later style they used with the V8s. I sent my dad a couple of your pictures and he said it is hard to tell exactly what year because the place they where different is in the end that is cut off.

well - i'm still fightin these things, haven't budged yet, but i'll keep tryin.

I tried to order new seals and Hillside said that 91223-NM0-004 (35x57x9) is discontinued, and 91254-HE0-004 (45x58x7) is on B/O with no due date.

so i called Motion industries and they say they can get them. Since i have not been able to get to my seals i do not know if they are single or double lip. Does anyone know if the OEM are single or double or better yet does anyone have the seals laying around that they could post a picture of?

Where did you get them numbers?

You want the output shaft seals where the axles plug in ?

Service Honda says

91254-HE0-003 OIL SEAL (45X58X7) $5.62
91223-VM0-004 OIL SEAL (35X57X9) $9.03

Here are pics of the seals I have.

The 91251-001-023 says 45x58x7 on the sticker service Honda put on the package

The numbers molded into that seal are W 11 BIG SPACE 500 45 58 7-2

hoser - thanks for taking the time to post those pictures. Ya i screwed up the part number when i posted. One seal is dicontinued and the other one is on BO with no ETA.

I'm still trying to remove these cups. I can not believe they are stuck so solid. I have the pilot cabled from wall to wall of the garage with lag bolts into studs. the other end of the cable is around the axle cups. i've tried several heat cycles using the heat gun. using a thermometer the hottest it got was 220 or so. The biggest slide hammer i can find is 5 lbs. i've tried several different 3 jaw pullers with the slide hammer and they all eventually pop off. i rigged up a 1/4" cable which wraps around the rear of the cup by the splines.

I'm not going to give up but i'm not sure if i can get these thing out. I've got to replace those seal, there is a puddle of oil under the pilot just sitting there for the last several weeks. I'll keep on keepin on!!!

I went through the same thing your going through, the only way I could get mine to start budging was to lay the Pilot on its side (drain all the fuel out first) and I would use a air hammer with a long blunt tip on the flat spot in side of the cup (trying to drive it in to the tranny) and then use the slide hammer to try and pull it out while soaking with PB blaster, alternating between the two for a week, once it started to move (barely) it still took a few days to get it out.


as a last resort I heard a few people have drilled a hole all the way through the stub to get the penetrating oil in there for sure and use a small punch to try and knock the opposite cup out.

How did the splines and final look once you got them out? Were you able to reuse them? I'm nervous as hell that i'm going to damage something. Parts are either no longer available of higher then heck. Got any photos of your pilot on its side? I never thought about driving the cup in, kinda like tightining a bolt to break it loose. Thanks for the encouragement!

Sorry no Pics, I just figured having the Pilot on its side gravity would help the PB blaster soak in, I can tell you once I got the first one out the splines where not that wet the rust/mud sealed it off pretty well.

I wired wheeled the splines and used a small stainless and brass brush to clean the finale, once they were clean they were not very pretty they were fairly pitted and the clips were almost rotted away, instead of buying new axles and finale I just cleaned everything rebuilt the axles with new boots and grease put a liberal amount of antiseize on the splines and final and Hoserized the stubs (silicone seal) and they are still working fine, this is my PA Pilot that I used in the GNCC races.

well i finally got them out. welded up some fittings and used a bosch chipping hammer. splines and final look good, now clean em up, pack the cvs and reassemble. Thanks for all the help!

Lots of work but I am glad it has a happy ending, nice job I like your puller mine is all manual labor heh.

same with mine manual all the way-

NICE!

He said Happy Ending

LMAO

Not having to buy 700-800 bux worth of parts is a happy ending to me

I spend 250 for a happy ending

that was too funny and too much money...