Got parts in for this,so I started on the bottom end yesterday.I lapped the case halfes, then washed them in soapy water and installed the crank seals and bearings in both halfes.Lapped the head, this took some time as it was not flat,I found using some water on the paper worked wonders to help the process.Heres some pictures.I will install the crank, and shfit drum, gear shafts, and the shifter into the right side today-heres some pictures.The side cases have had a bit of material worn off in areas from some MUTT using a "wiz wheel" air tool to take the gaskets off, so I might have to lapp these alittle more in areas to get them perfect.If you see something please let me know!!

The crank runout was at 0.01 so that's well within manufacturers specs( 0.02-0.10) and the side clearance as well spec's in under so it will be re-installed as well.I'll have the ring gap and piston to wall clearances posted here in a bit.I was wondering though-the parts are cold, should I take them inside and have them warm up a spell before checking the gaps/clearances?Will there be a difference it them?

Mudbogger you can use wd40 when your wet sanding.it makes it alot easyer

I have heard that from STONEMAN as well.I used water with a drop of soap in it, it really helped the process!

Got some work perfomred on it today-crank in,trans installed with hardware-kicker in with gears-here some pictures.
I measured the ring gap and piston-jug for clearances:
ring gap for both rings set just below the skirts 0.4mm (as per manual that's stock)
Jug top is 69.58mm
jug bottom is 69.82mm
Piston top is 69.55
Piston bottom 69.75mm

that's gives me 0.03 piston wall clearance on top and 0.07 on the bottom with the new OEM jug and Piston set.Standard as per manual is 0.049 - 0.059mm.

Recheck the bore taper I never seen a new OEM cylinder with taper like that

ok, will do.I am looking at my old measurements from the old jug I sent out, the taper is quite lareg in that one as well.old jug was:
69.74 top
69.85 bottom
piston was:
69.67 top
69.82 bottom

Any ideas on how I can check to insure the crank has gone all the way inot the bearings?It slid right in to the bearing with a very light coating of ANIT-SIEZE on it, but I am unsure if it is all the way.Any thoughts?

Got the bottom end assemblied today, dry fitted it once to check for sure everything was on the up and up, then I reassemblied it using the YAMABOND.The top end will be completed in the coming week hopefully.

when do i get to ride it?

US CHROME called today-the old jug has been completed with replating and a fresh piston kit.Being that the turn around was so quick I may just re-use this 1 and save the OEM jug for a later time.They (uschrome)match the piston to wall clearances for you right at the factory when they plate them, so it should be right on!

Save the OEM cylinder run the rebuilt cylinder...

They should set the piston to wall clearance. The plating is very hard and is not supposed to be honed with a normal hone. Trying to hone a plated cylinder can damage it - usually the coating will begin to flake on you.

Correct, US CHROME spoke to me about the processes and never to bore these jugs ever.BTW do you happen to know whay KAWASAKI jugs have so much taper in them by chance?

Mud, you're a rebuilding machine!!

You do great work & so fast too.

There must be a lot of guys out there that 'owe' you bigtime for you to 'acquire' all those OEM parts for your rides.

I don't know for sure as to why there is so much taper. At operating temp the cyl may loose its taper. Power valves will change the heat characteristics of a cylinder (changing port timing) at different rpms's, so the taper may be engineered into its design. Help prevent ring gap butting, sticking???
We always had great luck with kawasaki two stroke engines. Never lost a top or bottom end in years of racing. I never cared for their clutch baskets and internal linkage. Water pump seals like to weap.

I am expecting the old jug to be here this week, after the re-plating I am curious as too the taper of it in regards to the OEM jug I purchased off Ebay.I'll take measurements and compare the 2 for shits and giggles.I installed the clutch friction and metal plates tonight, I got confused as to the metal plates-they are aftermarket EBC plates and one side is beveled, the other is a sharp edge-does it matter which edge goes into the clutcj housing,the package for the EBC clutch pack did not have any type of directions, and the manual does not state which way to insert them-got me puzzled for sure.Anyway, the bottom end is all done, I await the top end and should have this all together in the coming week hopefully.Any hekp on those metal plates is appreciated, I got the friction plates in fine, just those metal ones are bothering me.

Called EBC and posted a question in regards to this on the 3 wheeler board, according to both it does not matter which way you install them, just make sure they are all the same way-meaning flatside in on all, vice-versa-that's it!
Going to work on the trike itself today, need to install rear carrier bearings,clutch lever,kill switch,and some other goodies.Will post pictures later.I am not going to powder coat this ride, I want to make sure it is a reliable ride, which runs perfect before I even think of going to the restore mode on it

some pictures of the bottom end:

Installed new swinger bearings and seals, also the rear carrier bearings and seals too on the ride, the chain guide is scrap, and there were numerous broken bolts for the skid plate which I drilled and re-tapped on the swinger.It appears to me it has been welded in the front at some point-the tubes that accept the bearings look to me to be homemade,there's no stops on the inside for the bearings, that's weird to me, most of my other swingers have stops in them, I'll post some pictures when I get back home later.The rear carrier bearings are sealed 6007's

pics

Got the cylinder back from US CHROME-here's some pictures for you.According to US CHROME the ports are not to be touched at all due to the plating.I also got a new intake which is made from a member on the 3 wheeler boards, the material is very durable poly rubber.

more

more

Ordered a RICKY STATOR flywheel and stator 80 watt today as well for the bottom end.

motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is completed, just need the stator and flywheel, which is on it's way.The piston was prepped as per Hosers tech pages: http://pilotodyssey.com/pistonprep.htm and new rings installed with all new OEM gaskets, torqued per manual specs and is ready for bolt in.Here's some pictures: