looks really good, coming along nicely.

Thanks very much.The hardest things to overcome with these is plain and simple parts!!! There isn't lot of places that make items for Tecates like a 250r or a Pilot.Case in point exhausts.I cannot locate a full exhaust for it,I might have to use a DG NATIONAL expansion chamber with a FMF Turbine Core 2 Universal silencer on it, meaning I have to probably weld a section of pipe to meet the two, and some other brackets as well,it is a real hinderence to try to get the Tecate rolling.I have heard from the 3 wheeler boards that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) wise the KX line has a lot of interchangeable parts,but not enough to really rebuild a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) soup to nuts at all.Intakes are discontinued, so I found a member on the 3 wheeler boards that makes them, which is great.I have asked him if he can copy a intake for us to fun the 39mm carbs on our Pilots, we will see what he comes up with price wise in the coming weeks.

Bought a new VM34MM carb off Ebay, round slide carb which is stock,and I also purchased the silencer as well.I will bring it down to my friends shop for fitment and welding when needed.He has mig, tig, and welds quite well, and he digs doing custom stuff for me as we have been friends since grade school.

Installed RICKY STATOR stator in the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) today-it is ready to go!!

Picked up a OEM headlight assembly and case saver from EBAY today-the project has been on hold as I am working 14 hrs shofts cleaning up for FEMA in areas that have been flooded from storms that ran through here last weekend.

Purchased a shock seal rebuild kit off Ebay-I am going to rebuild the stock rear shock as Hoser mentioned, just makes sense, the going rates for shocks is totally crazy, for the 37 bucks it cost me for the seal kit,quart of 10w oil, and nitrogen recharge I will be far below the costs associated with a new or used aftermarket shock by leaps and bounds.I'll post pictures of the rebuild.

Rebuilt the stock OEM headlight with guard today-there so hard to find and I had 2 of them I bought off Ebay recently, so I combined them for 1 good set-up.The plug for it was trashed as was the wire harness,so I removed all the splices, etc in it and ran new wires from the plug out.I need to find a new harness for this ride as the one here is just cut up, slices everywhere, etc, I am sick of trying to fix stuff, some mutt really went into this ride with a vengance, and he had no mechanical abilities what so ever-It just sickens me to see all the splices, tape, SHADE TREE MECHANIC stuff on this thing, why do people touch something they have no clue on?

Hopefully this weekend I'll get the Engine in and running.I have been swamped with work and such.Got the rear shock seals today,so I'm going to get into that as well this weekend too.

Finally got sometime today-so I installed the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).I was a little apprehensive as this is the first motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) I have rebuilt in many years, and being it has gears, shafts, shift forks, etc I think 1 can understand my thoughts.The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) started right up, 1 kick it fired right up.I have to use the old exhaust as the new JEMCO exhaust I purchased for the ride is hand made, these guys are the only people that make them currently-and it takes 6 weeks min!I cannot ride it as I have the rear shock out for a rebuild, I was not going to tackle this but at the urging of Hoser I did, and I am glad I did.It is very interesting to do it, and it is pretty cut and dry.I am using the old stock Mikuni carb as the new VM 34 MM I bought off ebay does not have a stock "elbow" on the throat cap which I need,it was loading up pretty good at idle, I brought up the clip on the needle to the middle from the 4th groove, seemed to help a little.The main is a 200,slow jet I couldn't get e number off, it is a oval slide(stock).The exhaust where the expansion chamber meets the cylinder was spewing goo, I didn't change the gaskets or use silicone on it-so I will take it off and install it with the proper gaskets and see it that works.Here's some pictures of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and the rear shock, the oil that came out of it looked like swamp water, it was totally gray/silver and had no nitrogen in the rese at all.OH BTW, the shitty huge clamp on the intake is just there to get it running, I ordered a new OEM 1 and it did not come it yet.

Cleaned all parts today, disassembled the shaft to replace the plunger on it, I can't seem to get the rese apart like a Pilot,I am thinking it doesn't have a baffle like the Pilot ones, I checked the manual and there is nothing on it there.Will make the oil change in the shock itself, says 5w is the best for performance in the manual.It also says to fill the rese with 67ml of oil as well,then recharge the nitrogen in it.It has just a plinger in there that needs to be set at acertain spot to fill one side with oil, the other with the nitrogen charge.

How about some pictures of what your talking about ?

Ok here you go.I double checked the manual and it says to manually move the plunger from the air valve side by hand, so I assume it does not come apart.I rechecked the resevior itself and there is not c clip or retainer clip that I can see either.

I dug all around the end which appears to have a retaining ring, and again I cannot see a channel that the ring would sit in, I really think it is not servicable.

Take a rubber mallet and tap down on the end where you say you cant see the ring see if it will slide down and expose the ring if not try to unscrew it, it comes apart some how.

You can see the end comes apart, the red arrows point where they staked it after assembling, the blue arrows point to where you put a spanner wrench to unscrew it.

Now sure what good it would do to take that apart other than replacing a leaking oring on that connection, its not like your going to gain access to the divider piston in the reservoir?

I was thinking the whole assembly on that side slide into the main rese body.It does say the valve pictured can be removed,I wanted to clean it out, that was basicly why I was inquiring about the rese.I will probalby forgo the valve and just clean with solvents and fill oil on the line side.Thanks for the help Hoser.

Well, again as usual I owe Hoser an apology.I really dug into the rese today and indeed as he stated here, that rese does come apart, it had a c-clip in the adjuster side, I hit it and the end went right down, exposing the clip.After getting it out the whole adjuster valve and all came right out,exposing the bladder and the inners of the rese(which was total shitted up,glad I did this)I cleaned it all, and replaced the oil (67mm of SAE 5)in the rese, then filled the shock with 155ml of oil, buttoned it all up and dropped it off at the little tiny cycle shop right down the street from me for a charge of nitrogen(142psi is the factory setting)

On another note, I have been wrenching around carbs for this ride, the stock carb was not getting the job done, it had a slide issue, the internals were ok but worn, so I bought a Mikuni VM34MM off Ebay, bad CHOICE as it didn't fit well at all in the intake/airbox.I was researching on the 3 wheeler board for information, and I looked to the shelve which is on my right, the big 350 parts shelve.LORD AND BEHOLD, there is a 35PWK carb fresh in the box,well well, you know that dam thing fit like a glove, I was so pissed!I could not have been more happy! Then to top it off, I wanted to save the stock carb "elbow" which is mounted the lid of the stock carb, after some inspections and measurements, I figured the dam thing will fit right on the top of the Kiehin carb.So, I carefully ground down the outer lip on elbow and pulled it free of the stock cap, after getting a 15/16 drill bit and drilling the top of the Keihin carb,I kept all off the stock rubber groments, washers and it slid right on, I then used a flare tool on the end of the elbow and carefull flared over the edge of the elbow onto the Keihin top and then for good measure I used 2 snap rings on the end for good measure, it fits like a glove.I still have the stock throttle cable in there as well too, the the stock rubber boot fit on the Keihin carb top perfectly as well, I was amazed at how well it worked, and to boot the stock internals on the 35PWK worked great for the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) too, the slow jet was perfect for idle,crisp off the low end, really was a dream come true.If you guys want some pictures of the finished product I can get them.

The pics are given. We all like pics.

Since the Tecates are long gone so are parts for it.I did a search on the 3 wheeler board today as I need rims and tires for the rear of my ride.I found a thread which had great information on what will fit and does not fit the tecates.As I found the 2003 POLARIS 500 PREDATOR has the same bolt pattern and rims size as the 85 tecate t-3, 4/156 which was cool since I needed the rims, mine are in poor shape.Ordered them today-free shipping on them total was $270.56.
I also ordered grips, crossbar pad,and a TUSK universal headlight switch for the Tecate as the stock switches are no longer available and very very hard to get-I will wire it in to the stock harness with no issues.
The stock shock is at a local shop getting nitrogen charged, as soon as I get that back I can ride-I am so looking forward to taking some pictures and doing some plug chops,got to heat cycle the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) as well.
I will tell you these Kawasaki kickers are HELL on your feet, you need to wear riding boots to kick them over, I got 1 hell of a bruise on my big toe from hitting the foot peg when kicking it, it is a very odd kicker gear and goes inward toward the peg, without the thicker boot, your dam toe hits the foot peg each and every time, and it hurts!!!! That's a shitty design for sure, and there is nothing I can do about it.BEWARE OF THE KICKER!!!!

The COW has teeth

Moooo looking good

speed

Speed, how is the crank jig coming along?I got some 350 cranks I need rebuilt!!!

New OEM hard to find part:

rear tail light assembly, OEM not aftermarket cheap stuff.TOOK ME A MONTH TO FIND THIS!

Was wondering where you got your Engine bearings? I am having a hard time finding crank bearings for my 440 kawasaki invader snowmobile motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).

Whats the numbers on the bearings?

I was looking in one of my old LA sleeve catalogs and seen this.

there are several part numbers listed. the kawasaki numbers are:

Magneto side: 92045-3002 OR 6206-9RT-C4
PTO Side: 92045-507 OR 6207-9C4

I do not have dimensions for the bearings. If you follow this link and go to pgs 82-83 you can see the diagram and part numbers... http://www.vintagesnow.com/Kawasaki_fil ... nvader.pdf


John Deere part numbers:
Magneto Side: AM54848
PTO Side: AM54847
JD9344

here is a link to the above parts, go to p.24 http://www.vintagesnow.com/John_Deere_f ... 201984.pdf