6206 C4
6207 C4
Both those bearings are listed on the above chart thing is getting the exact one you need, yours have any locator pins in the cases to keep the outer races from spinning or do they have a groove in the outer race and a ring in the groove, then a groove in the cases to locate the bearing?

Any pics?

I purchased the bottom end bearings all of them from BIKE BANDIT.COM
BEARING BALL,6025 CRANKCASE Bike Bandit # 627097-001
BEARING BALL 6204 CRANKCASE Bike Bandit # 615804-001
BEARING BALL Bike Bandit # 627184-001 Crankcase
BEARING BALL 6205 Bike Bandit #92045-1115
BEARING BALL 6204 Bike Bandit #601B6204
BEARING BALL Bike Bandit # 92045-1304

Some of these are the bearing for the trans shafts,shifter, etc.

I checked out BikeBandit, I got a few things there for my 70, but my part #s werent working. Maybe I was doing something wrong.

The bearings have no locator pins/grooves, nothing like that. The case has a groove on each side, but it is for the seals, nothing for holding the bearings in place. These pics are of the lower end from the ebay motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) I got burned on, I do not have my othe motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) pulled out of the car yet, but it is identical. Below are some pics.

Mud, didnt mean to jack your thread. Should I start another?

HECK NO, YOU DIDN'T JACK ANYTHING! I'm good with it, mabye Hoser wants to place the posts in a bearing thread? which ever you guys want is great with me-

I got my OEM rear sprocket, but my local cycle guy has not charged the shock, he told me hopefully tomorrow on it,he had customers ahead of me and I don't expect him to drop everything for me.He is a 1 man operation and people need to ride, it is the busy season.

Installed new OEM rear tailight, NEW OEM rear sprocket, new 520 o-ring chain,front headlight with guard,and a TINY TACH for documentation of the hrs on the new motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).Shock still not done yet, bummed.Heres a few pictures:

Another view of the top cap to the Kiehin, this was all expianed in the thread how I do this, it is also on the 3 wheeler board as well.

Nice, thanks for the pics

your welcome!

Got my PRM rear desert grab bar,grips,and other goodies today from my UPS guy.This should be a done deal by the weekend-ride and jetting reports to follow--

Everything installed and operational except the shock.Local cycle shop called to inform me the seals which I just replaced are leaking, I may have installed the plunger/seal kit in backwards-I'll need to ask them to check that for me.The TUSK universal light switch looks great and has options for high beams and horn, LOL but it was a perfect fit to the handlebars and works well.REAR tail light works perfect, and the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) runs sweet.Very happy with the job, was a learning experience for myself.Next is a 250r motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) I think-ride reports to follow in the coming weeks.

update-I did in fact install the plunger upside down, my local shop here called today to inform me it was in wrong, so I am hopeful it will be ok when re-fitted.Here's some pictures of the above item mounted on the tecate:

Local cycle shop had called-they charged the shock and oil was leaking out of the shaft.It was discussed with them and a quick check revealed I had placed the seal kit upside down on the shaft-LOL-oh well, live and learn.Hoser had asked me if I did the same thing in the chat-so YES Hoser, I did indeed install the seal kit wrong.I just picked it up from them after re-installation of the seal and it is fine, no oil leaking at all,charged per my settings(preload as well)so we are good to go.

update, I have been trying to jet this ride for a couple days.I am having lean issues badly, the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is starving for fuel on top end, plug chops are way lean.The 35mm PWK carb comes with a 68 slow jet, 160 main,needle on the middle groove.The low end to mid range is nice, needle adjustments on those circuits have been responsive -but the top end it is just plain out dead, flat, does not pull through at all.I have gone from a 160 main, to the current 178 main, and it is still way lean.I did not have any larger jets from a 178 so I ordered a Kiehin jet kit from ROCKY MTN -it include 5 of each jet from sizes 125-210 for like 278 bucks, but with my "frequent buyer points' It came to just over 100 bucks shipped to me.Now when I installed the V-FORCE 3 reeds I inlcuded the stuffer with it,but I cannot get the plug wet at all, there is no burn ring on the porcelain at all,no color,none at all, I even got the magnifying glass out on it, no color.I'll install like a 200 and see if I can get it wet, then go down from there.The motors have a short stroke, so it needs fuel and alot of it.I am currently on stock 70mm bore, wiseco piston/rings,v-force reeds,35mm pwk carb, and the head has been shaved(the compression is at 215,alittle higher them the 185 stock)13-44 gearing, running 20's on the rear.

using race fuel, at that compression???

no, I am not using race fuel, just pump gas 93 octane.I did not check the head to see if it was shaved,I had no prior knowledge of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), I lapped the head down prior to installing it as the surfaces where the gasket sat were not flat, but the material I removed to get it flat I would not consider it as "shaved"but with the higher compression I am going to assume it is, I cannot attribute the increase from any other component of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).I did not build it for race fuel, and are alittle surprised to the increase.

update-I installed a 210 main in the carb,same lean condition, I tryed every needle position,even tryed some other needles, the plugs are white as a ghost.I even drilled out the 210 main with a 1/8 bit, just to see if I could get a burn pattern or some color on the plug, that did not even work! motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) has a re-plated jug on stock bore(70mm) V-FORCE reeds with the stuffer installed,stock head with all stock oem gaskets,I lapped the head before install but did not cc it, I bought the trike used so if it has been shaved I would not have a clue.I did not check squish on it as I had no idea there would be this issue.Is there a way the pump gas is causing this, or perhaps the fuel is being burnt that clean? I understand these motors have a short stroke, and they need massive fuel intake,why can't the 35mm provide it?
A STOCK carb size is 34mm Mikuni. The 35mm will adjust on idle/mid circuits well, just top end is flat, and the plug is pure white.The current compression is 205 warm, stock compression from manual is 156-185.Any help here is greatly appreciated.Pictures of the plug with the drilled out 210 main, after several needle positions;

Update-did a leak down test today-reed cage and intake leaking badly on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).I tryed to tighten the bolts down, no help.I removed the intake and reed cage from the jug,installed a plate, and checked the cases and jug for leaks,which came back fine. My only issue currently in the intake I using is a reproduction, the OEM intakes are discontinued and hard to find,and it seems I cannot get this intake to seal properly.

Here is the intake in question, it is reproduction unit from a seller on the 3 wheeler boards.I re-installed it and used red high heat silicone this time as per his instructions, it leaked like a garden hose.When I bought it I had noticed the 2 side holes were not right, it seems the inner re-inforced cast bracket underneath the rybber was damaged.I did not overtighten these in anyway-it may appear to be that but I didn't.Here is the stuffer too I ahd in there,it is out now.I couldn't get this thing to run at all, way lean, the compression is up at 205 warm, mabye race fuel is in order.

more:

I don't know if you can ever get that to seal, I would try Yamabond and put washers on the bolts so you have more of a contact area (i know it wont look good).

http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... t=yamabond

are the OEM ones discontinued?

I suggested a metal plate on the outside like taking the old OEM metal ring and removing it from the rubber and using it over the outside of this manifold so its more like a clamp, longer bolts will be needed and the use of loctite on the threads since they wont be torqued as normal.

The old manifold was throw away(wife did it)so I would have to fab it up.The OEM 1's are discontinued for the Tecates, but I have researched it on the 3 wheeler boards and it seems that the KX 250 and the KX 500 intakes are the same for the years of 84-89 but I am not totally sure.I was hoping King KX or any guru's of the KAWASAKI'S might help me there.I have seen a couple on Ebay, but all are junk, cracked and rotted.I do not care about the looks, just want it to seal up.

Called Mossbarger today for an intake, they are shut down for the week, will call me back on Monday. They list a reed cage abd stuffer on there site still for the Tecates, I am hoping they have the intake as well for it. We will see. Anybody here familair with the KX line of motors by chance?

Mossbergar had the manifold in stock- could not believe it! I ordered the 36-38mm intake as the smaller size only allows up to a 34smm carb. they still make the 350 and pilot intakes as well. Mine was 65 bucks shipped.

what does the one for the Pilot look like?

Here's pictures of the intake.I messed up when I ordered -they asked me if I wanted a flatside intake and I told them yes-I need a angled intake so the carb sits level-I screwed up! I had another replacement OEM intake from the manufacturer on the 3 wheeler boards, so I installed it tonight-we will see tomorrow if it seals well.