Well, got the ody out for a spin today
she is not smoking like it was,
although is is a little sluggish out of the hole

kinda bogging, not much for low end at all

the carb is a pwk 36 mm

here is a pick of the plug after taking a spin
and a video of it running
any ideas ???

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5PshbwPpxU" .".." .".." ."..

Can you get some better close up shots of the plug. It should look chocalate brown, like the color of a UPS delivery truck. One other thing, a lot of guys here like to have a prefilter on the air filter, catches what the filter lets through. Also a word of advice on the FL350 transmissions. It is best not to run the FL350 transmissions for any length of time in idle. When the trans is not in gear (forward or reverse), it has no way of lubing the upper bearings, this wears the bearings prematurely. A lot of guys bypass their change switch to allow starting in Forward and then just leaving the Ody in Forward, saving their transmission. Good luck w the bogging, Maybe idle jet or needle clip??. Been a while so Im sure someone here can talk you thru the bogging...

Give this a read if you havent already http://www.pilotodyssey.com/BillGivensjetting.htm
it will answer many questions wealth if info their.

Another really good one http://www.pilotodyssey.com/carbtuning.htm

OK,
I am pulling the carb and going through it tomorrow,I also have a k&n to add too

thanks hoser for the links

After reading if you still have questions please ask.

I will do it,
I have Nuke em to ask to, he seems to know these carbs to,
going out on a limb here,but you think it is a jetting issue?
turbo said he had jetted it for a pilot...idk, we will se tomorrow

Thanks

I found the cause of my problem
what do ya think?

But,I am still going to go through the carb and give it a GOOD cleaning!


BTW, I have ID the carb,
It is a keihin PJ 36mm carb

Yeah you gotta fix that one for sure no use trying to change any jetting.

I couldnt leave it alone,I took the intake to work
We have alot of rubber products we deal with every day,so I figured what the hell,
anyway, We did have some industrial epoxy for use on rubber products
,solvent,gasoline resistant.. heat to, up to 1000 degrees...worked like a charm,applied it,and baked it for 6 hours in one of our cure ovens
It is a little harder than normal,But a perm fix to this intake..at least till I get a new one..that's the plan

Nice, think that will hold til a replacement is aquired. Time to check the jetting again...see how she runs now.

IN My Opinion Stix the plug should be a brown paper sack color... not so much a dark ups brown???

Definatly a debatable subject. i like " UPS color brown" . Just to be on the safe side...Sometimes it gets chilly in the evenings when we ride. I run with an open air cleaner box so I try to remember to put the cover on the box when the temps drop but sometimes we get to having a cold one and I might forget, just a preventative measure.

intake repair worked nice!
pulls good now,

got about 10 minutes of good ride time in
here is what the plug looks like
this is the old plug, with a few miles on it,
whatcha think?

Using the old plug with it oiled or carboned up will not give you a true reading. Put a new plug in it and then go out and warm it up and then do your plug chops.

Just remember you can be lean on the low end and burn a piston.

Remember, do a plug chop starting at about 1/4 throttle and then look at the plug.
If that looks good then do a plug chop at 1/2 throttle.
If that looks good then do a plug chop at WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

Rand

Correction Warm up the Engine with the OLD plug then change to the new so you don't bugger up the new plug and get a false reading

stock intake,I will put a new plug in tomorrow after I get her warmed up, work on it from there..
the older plug in the last pic, kinda looked that way before it was ran today, so I will be working with different ones tomorrow

what heat range plug are you using???

I stand corrected!

Rand

He is using an 8 heat range.

1 st plug, this was put in a warmed up machine
with some mid throttle to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) runs,100 yards long
3rd pic is the plug I destroyed getting apart

Honestly,the first 2 pics to me looks mid range jetted(OK) maybe a hair to the lean side,but still not enough build up to read. I like to read my plugs with a good build-up on there, if it gets lean, everything gets light n dry. I have trouble reading new/clean plugs. The "Kuda" disassembled plug(had to say it!) looks more like the way I run mine...well to the rich side of things, even damp. I would rather lose a little HP and foul a few plugs now and again than the other option..."poof-ka-boom".

she is running..BUT

I went ahead and did a compression test..not good..
115 psi!
I think I know the reason for this though. when I put the top end together,I used the head off my big bore 400 motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )){rennies} I think it was around 87 mm across the dome which would be alot of extra room up there causing the lower compression..I THINK??
The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) seems to run good,just lacks the snap it should have given whats been done to it..
Again..This just a idea I have,stab at it if you will

there are a couple of things I can do here.. bolt up a stock 350 head and take the compression again... should be higher I hope
if this is the case,I will have to hunt down another liquid cooled head to fit the 360 jug or find another big bore head and have it milled down to drop the cc's in the dome{cant do it to this one,its for my big bore motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))}

Guys

Does this make sense?
any ideas would be awesome

Thanks in advance

Ed

360 came without a head?

did not come with a head..,tried to locate it, but it didnt happen, the big bore bolts up fine,but...different dome size

what do ya think?

How thick are the gaskets you are using for the base and head?

What is your squish band?

Rand