Does anyone have any information to post about this mod? Pics? Measurements?

Thanks!
Tim

In effect, it's a pair of tabs on the lower inside of the trailing arm + pair of tabs on the cage tubing below the gearbox & behind the axle + an adjustable tie rod in between + heim at each link and repeat on the other side.

I've the got the parts to do mine, just haven't gotten to it.
> (4) 5/8"-thread female rod ends with 5/8 heims & spacers
> 5/8" threaded rod (~12" each side)
> 5/8" ID tubing that will slide over the rod and get tacked on the ends, leaving about 1.5-2" thread exposed each end.
> 5/8" bolts & nuts

Will have to experiment to figure out which tab locations allow the tie rod to simply "swing" and not bind from compression or elongation during the suspension motions.

Take lots and lots of pictures for me haha

I don't think this can be done with the stock universal joints without binding..... but I hope like hell you can prove me wrong!

Rand

been there done that it will bind But can be done
The Heims joints need to be in the same center line as the u joints on the axle or it will bind then it will put strain on the ujoint


Speed

But if you go the far you should just get rid of the u-joint and go to a cv setup then you can put more travel in the rear suspension

speed

If we are talking about making nylon limit straps and not a mechanical link that G Money is talking about, they are pretty simple to make.

1.) You need a good strong strap material such as that used for a tie down. Don't use El Cheapo Wally World Special tie downs, trust me they won't hold up! Remember, the straps are going to take a lot of abuse from debris striking them because they will hang down below the axle area. Note: Make yourself a couple of sets because you will be replacing them on a regular basis!

2.) You want to make the strap just long enough to accommodate the full travel of the suspension and no longer. If you make them too short, they will break under full suspension compression (ask me how I know!). If you make them too long then the are pointless and will not save the shock.

3.) The proper way to do this is to use the shocks you are going to mount.
3a.) Place your Ody up on jack stands.
3b.) Remove your rear shock from the Ody then remove the coil spring from the shock. Leave the rubber stop on the center shaft of the shock.
3c.) Re-mount the shock without the coil spring to the upper and lower suspension mounts just as it would be mounted normally.
3d.) Place a jack under the rear wheel and raise it until it moves to it's upper most travel limit. The shock should now be fully compressed and the upper body of the shock should be pressing against the rubber cushion that is on the shock shaft. This should be the maximum amount of travel that you suspension will see during normal operation.
3e.) One end of each strap will be mounted to the frame of the Ody and the other end will be mounted to one of the lower bolts of the axle bearing housing.

To make the holes in the nylon strap, I highly suggest using something that will melt a hole through the strap. This will prevent the strap material from un-raveling and give the area a stronger bond. You can grind a nice sharp edge to an old socket and heat it up with a torch to burn holes through the strap.

Rand

Ah yes...Speedchaser's pic looks familiar. Thanks for bringing the pic back to the boards.

Has anyone on here ever transformed a stock gearbox'd FL350R to CV's?

More pics please, you have a kit in the works?

I did this back in 2008 never did finish that one. I was moving towards doing a cable setup instead

The shock that I worked with was a old stock one that Nukem had drill a hole in so it Had no oil in it. It moved easily up and down

The rear trailing arm just doesn't go up and down in a straight line off the most forward pivot point it dose a arc form lets say from one o'clock to four o'clock (_) looking at the rear of the machine

Speed
So many Idea's and not enough Time in the Day

"High cost for NOS axles"...I second that!

I can pick up a set of VW or Porsche CV's for under $100.

I would invest in this speed! make a kit.!

You'd need...
> someone with tooling to make a spline collar for the output shaft spline, to which you'd weld a CV cup -OR- machine a new output shaft that was a standard spline or keyed to accept a cup with same spline/key
> said CV cups (output shaft) which you can get with the CV's and cut/weld as needed
> rear cup/spindle with shaft that fit in the stock bearing carrier & hubs (would be nice), or offer a new rear carrier & hub set with bigger bearings and disk brakes "upgrade"
> longer travel shocks?

haa...maybe we need a new thread!

Well the biggest thing is to find a cv that will work on the secondary clutch side with out hitting the belt

speed

the belt side will be fine the problem will be the other side. In order for the cup to clear the tranny case it will need to stick out farther from the trans then it does now.

massive skids?
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in my pants?

Tpreed...are you surpised where this thread went? haa


So essentially we want to put the FL400 axle setup on the FL350? Will it work with the motion of the FL350 trailing arm? I figure it would since the CV has dynamic motion, not linear (up & down).

Wish I still had my two sets of VW type3 CV's lying around int he shop to play with. When I finally get to buggy #4, I'm hoping to play around with the rear drive and suspension (as well as front a-arms). Just that it'll be a while before I get around to it...

I hope some one figures out how to adapt a cv axle.I have been playing with some setups but nothing works yet

I have been thinking about sending these guys some parts http://www.rushgears.com/"

I am bumping this as I think it would be great to have a kit to add a third link and a CV axle to the FL350.

I found this company: http://www.cvaxles.com/index.html They say they can custom make a CV for any application and even do a lot of work with ATV's.

If there was enough interest we could have them made and bring down the cost per unit (not sure what that would be).

All this would be assuming Speed would be up for making his kit available to us as well.

Anybody else have any input on the matter?

If an affordable kit came available I'd definitely be interested. Could this problem be solved by going to an aftermarket trans. A while back Hoser posted a link to an aftermarket trans that was only $900. If I had an Ody with a broken trans(or any fabrication skill lol) I think I'd try to update the trans and axles. Could sell the original stuff to help offset the cost. Somethings gotta give soon. Imagine what this is gonna be like in a decade.

There was a fella I think in the UK that did just this, convert to CV'S I think Baz knows him? There is a picture here somewhere.
Can a kit be made that will cost effective?

I've spoken with a tech about this mater. He was giving a ballpark figure of $300 each. But needed me to send him an axle for comparison. But I don't have any spare axles at the moment.
And been meaning to get back with them about getting something started. Being things are getting stable for me on my end.
Any busted up donors laying around?

D.A

Wow that's an old thread you resurrected.
Some of those people aren't around anymore.
Card counter and nelly haven't been on the site since 2012 and shoubada since last year.
Anyways I hope you find something for us.