Nitro,
Definately the best pipe I found to work with, already has the tight bends needed.
A few suggestions if I may:
1. Keep the F7 attachment point to the Y pipe, those graphite donuts work really well. Just take a tube the inside diameter of the donut and weld that on the Y pipe end. The donut also allows for more misalignment than the old Skidoo pipe. I took two hole saws to make the flat backing plate needed for the donut. Cut half way through with the small hole saw, switch to the large and cut through, then finish off the small hole while holding with vice grips.
2. I cut a small pie shape out of the Y and welded it to the other side to start the curve at the pipe, also at the exhaust flanges cut Pie shapes out to keep closer to the Engine. Pie slivers keeps the length the same.
3. Take length measurements of the stock pipe and make this pipe match. You don't want the exhaust wave back to the
Engine to be early (shorter pipe distance) or late (longer pipe distance). Measure both of the welded seams of the two pipes divide by two and make them match - either add or subtract to the F7 pipe to match your stock pipe. I also measured circumfrance at one inch intervals and made the pipes match. I would think the 670 pipe is fatter than the F7 pipe as it is a rotary valve Engine, match if you can but I think it is a secondary concideration to the length.
4. Keep stinger the same size as stock (end opening) If too small then it will build too much heat in the
motor ((
Internal Combustion Engine ? )) ((starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) or a fan motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?)), two large then not enough back pressure.
While cutting the pipe you won't get a perfect fit, don't worry, sand down to get best fit and don't feel bad with gaps, transfer gap to paper for a pattern then fill with steel. If gap is too small make it bigger, and fill with bigger patch. On my second pipe I tried to cut too perfect and after sanding I ended up with a 1" too short pipe. I wraped my final pipe so no-one but me (and now anyone reading) will know.
Good luck,
Apilot
Thanks ak! I will keep all that in mind when i start fabbing the pipe. Right now i am working on mounting the radiator, and some of the dash wiring.
On that note, i have a question regarding the dash wiring. Studing the wire diagram from the pilot, there is a black with white stripe wire that runs from the
(Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to both the starter switch and kill switch. and then there is a black with brown stripe wire that runs from the ignition to the kill swtich. My question is, how do i make the starter switch work as well as the killswitch? do i just change it so the black/white stripe wire that is on one side of the start switch has the switched 12v power with the other side of it running to the starter solenoid. and then would i eliminate the black/brown stripe wire that runs from the ignition switch to the kill switch and just make the black/white wire that runs from the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) attach to both the ignition and the killswitch?
And last, what is the correct size battery to put in the pilot? I stole the utx12-bs outta my FL350 to do some testing of my wiring but it doesnt seem to be the correct size. Likes its too short? i looked through the manual but couldnt ifnd the correct number. maybe i jhust missed somthing.
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