Thanks, it worked out really good. Paid $65ish for it. I was in need of a new roof ayways since mine is basicly white lol. for 65 i think it was a decent deal, and having the extra storage will be a bonus.

Hey Nitro,I have a deal for you if your interested.
Post me your damaged roof lid/top for repair,my mate is a glasser,has years of experience with all kinds of glassing,currently does FG Pool renos.
He did my ol 350 Ody fenders,full set in FG,from moulds he produced from a good set of fenders from my best Ody.They turned out perfect,could not tell they FG unless you looked underneath.
I will pay both ways postage back to you,your top will be fixed,PLUS I'll try and get him to make you another top as well.
My reward will be a new top from him as well,+ the mould.
What say thee?

I forgot to add,I need to run this past him first,but he's never said no to me as I've done him a lot favours in lawnmowing.

That does sound like a good deal haha. send me a PM sometime im sure we can work somthing out.Although, i thought there was a member here working on reproducing these. Maybe he quit?

Better still,email me your ph#'s Landline#? and Cell/Mobile#'s,best time to call? oddy59@iprimus.com.au
We will cover more ground,and save time with a phone call.
Can you handle a DownunderBazCall? Others have struggled,& are still under Dr Phil.
Plus I get to laugh at your crazy accents!

Hoser, did you ever get a chance to see these porting pictures? the first picture is what the seadoo intake looks like. the red sharpie is a rough outline of where the intake needs to be opened up. the second picture is what the intake ports on the case look like, these are what i am trying to match. (not my image, just found one so i didnt have to take a pic of my case). How am i going to want to go about matching up these ports? what sort of bits would you recomend to use? Im assuming i can use my Dremel or my air grinder since it is just a straight shot to what i am going to be working on. Thanks in advance.

Hoser would know if anyone does.

This help any? viewtopic.php?t=759

That was a good read, but do you have any pictures of the finished product? or maybe any in progress shots? I am just a little bit afraid to take power tools to the intake. I guess on the bright side, they can be had cheap on ebay if i screw it up.

Here is what i came up with on the intake. after i was done i took some 200grit went sand paper and make them smooth. I think it turned out pretty good. If it does not run good, i know where i can get lots of these intakes on the cheap!

i am no expert but i would think that you should be able to blend it in better, so that there is no edge, just smooth all the way around.

wheres the sharp edge you are talking about? the.onr i did is on the left and i tried to get.it as smooth as i.could. unless im missing somthing thay you spotted.

Cant find any pics of the finished can you mark up where you want to match up maybe I can add some pointers and advice.

Miss matched parts cost flow, you only have to much time that the port is open and flow happens so you want the least amount of losses as possible, at high RPMs it happens so fast its almost like a steady flow but their is still a pulse involved how ever so short.

You can get a idea of flow effects by taking two matching parts and flowing water over them then slowly miss align the parts so they no longer match then watch flow again.

Air flow is slightly different because of its density same with air/fuel and slightly different with air/fuel/2 stroke oil but you get the idea, big miss match = restricted flow or turbulence and eddies that affects flows.

On the rotary valve intake engines you don't want to change the timing of the openings because it will adjust your power band, like in the below pic where I added the red lines that is how the rotary valve cover will sweep around go to the other side of that red line it will alter the time your intake is open.

If you want to vary the amount of time your intake is open you cut the rotary valve itself or but a different valve already cut.

My bad I thought your was the one on the right.

All i had wanted to do was just match what the factory 670 SKIdoo intake had for porting. I didnt want to change the timing or any of that, just put it to factory.

This photo shows what the SEAdoo intake looked like when i started, the ports were just round. The red markings are just a rough outline of what needed to be cut to match the ports of the crankcase.



This next photo shows my intake after i did a little work to it next to the stock SKIdoo intake. I have never done this sort of work before so i just gave it the best shot i could. My modified intake is on the left, the stock SKIdoo intake is on the right




Not sure if i went about that correct but it is at least better than it was. Maybe you could give me a few ideas if it needs modified more. I was going to polish it a little better smooth.



Its all good. It was my first time doing somthing like this so i am open to input. Just thought maybe you saw somthing that i didnt.

Ive been thinking about the front brakes on this and the wiring, so i have a couple questions.

Ive been thinking about upgrading to an OEM Honda set of disk brakes from a TRX450R instead of the custom made kit. Would the hubs off of a TRX450R work? I realize the bolt pattern is different, but shoulnt the spindles/hubs/brakes bolt on as long as i have the correct wheels? I will be using the YODA front end kit so i will have caster/camber adjustability. The reason i am thinking about this is just for the most simple fact of part availibility. the 450R spindles/hubs/brakes ect can be had all day every day fairly cheap.

My second question is to those that have done sled conversion in the pilot before. Reguarding the killswitch on the dash, how have you wired it? There is a black and white stripe wire i beleive and a black with brown stripe wire. Currently the black/brown wire is hooked to ground, and the other is hooked to the Engine kill circuit. I am using the ignition key from the sled and it will work just fine, it will ground out the kill circuit when the key it turned off. Now the dash switch is working opposite. when the switch is to the "Run" possition it will ground the circuit, but in the "off" possition it is closed. How should this be wired? Id like to have use of both switches. don't want someone to panic in an emergency situation and forget how to shut it down.

Nytro,

Man it's been a long time but I used a Napa relay switch to work the ground. You'll have to bug bazz and he can get a pic of the switch or even a part number.

Ak

Gotcha, So the switch just naturally works the opposite of what we want it to? Would i be using a relay much like the ones used to kick on fans and whatnot? I have used those wiring up my remote door locks on my pickup. the door lock was a reverse polarity so i had to use the relay to change from a ground signal to a power signal. Ill have to bug baz

No worries,but where is this relay Wayne,and I'll go looksee and take pics?

I just sent you an email Baz, didnt check this thread before i hit send.

Bazz,

It is the black relay bolted to the cross member just in front of the left rear upper a-arm. Where the three OEM threaded bosses are.

Ak

Yeah Matt the internet is a fast wonderful thing,helping us buggy addicts out worldwide with a press of buttons.
Especially from where I'm at.
UNBUGGYLEIVABLE! I say!

Wayne I'll go out and have a squiz.

This one?........................................................and my head still hurts!

Bazz,

Yep that's it.

Ak

okay so it is just a standard relay. Cool. Ive got a handful of them in my toolbox. I will have to do some reading on exactly how to wire it up, but it shouldn't be hard at all. Thanks to both of you!

Nytro,

Ok, when Honda kill switch is "on" position (power going through switch to relay to ground) then have the sled kill wire in open. When power is cut to the Honda switch then the relay turns off and puts your Skidoo Engine CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to ground.

Ak