Guys, i am trying to bled the frt brakes on my 350. I have tried to manually create a vac at each wheel cylinder to attempt to draw fleuid from the master through the bleeder bnut when i do i only get a small amount of fluid at d side blleder with alot of big air bubbles with the sm ammount of fluid and it deoesnt seem to get better? Also there is no handle pressure whatsoever, i also put teflon tape on the frt lines at the junction not the bleeders or master line. I have read some of the other threads about brake bleeing but it doesnt seem to help with my situation. I did the same method for the rear system and the rears have been blead and now has handle preassure. I have rebuilt the master cyclinder also.... Suggestions???? HELP!!!!!!!!

Lots of discussion on brake bleeding in the past use this search and do a little reading while your waiting for the 350 gurus to chime in https://www.google.com/search?q=style+g ... 24&bih=583

Everything ive read in previous threads sounds great and ive even done most of them with the exception of getting a pump.... That may be my next step-- a trip to harbor freight!

bleeding the 350 can be a real b***h. iv found pumping the handle fast and repetitively works out the bubbles that are in the master cylinder itself. this is before you crack open the bleeder. usually you can see bubbles coming up through the fluid reservoir

nitro, ive pumed the handle what feels like a million times, i even used a piece of clear hose to suck the bubble out from under the clear dome in the bottom of the resevoir...i have bled brakes on cars, trucks, motocycles and its never been this difficult! im starting to wonder if i have a bad line- slight crack in rubber and its pulling in air??

i doubt a bad line. i thibk the 350 brakes just sick to bleed. maybe the mighty vac trick would work for you

Once you get past the air lock its easy, 350's are known to be a bitch to bleed what I see you saying so far I would consider normal.

Even with the mighty vac they can be hard.

Try tapping on the rez while pumping to make the air bubble move.

Squeeze and hold the handle in for 30 seconds then pump again.

If u get a vac pump get this one

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 39522.html" ."..

I have it and it works great
I had the brass one they sell and it was crap

ok, i added teflon to the fittings and wallah.... I now have fluid with no bubbles at the wheels. I still have no pressure at the handle though! GRRRRR, when i do pump and hold i do get a little dribble out the fitting but no pressure on the handle still. Should i try to rebleed the rear now will that help?? Maybe i assembled the master wrong when i rebuilt it?? i would hate to remove the master and tear it apart....

I had the same problem as you and ran across a post somewhere on these forums that suggested "flicking" the lever repeatedly. By this I mean only pull the brake lever back maybe 1/4 of the way and then release it quickly (essentially letting the handle "flick" back). You should see air bubbles comimg up in the master cylinder when doing this. After I did this for awhile I was finally able to get the levers to pump up.

Hope this works for you like it did for me.

Yeah Nelly it was me Randman who had the issues.

I found that only using short strokes on the handle helped to bleed the system. And when you do this, watch for little bubbles coming back up through the master cylinder's little plastic window down inside the reservoir.

Air gets trapped inside the master cylinder itself. I am going to have to do this tedious chore on Ridindrity's Ody some time in the near future.

Randy, you can also try forcing the brake fluid backwards through the system with the Mighty Vac.

Just plain and simple.....Fl350 master cylinders are a pain in the ass to get the air out of. Another trick you might want to try is to squeeze the brake lever all they way down to the steering wheel and then tying it of and leaving it that way overnight. This has helped me get the air out of the master cylinder.

Rand

not sure if the oddy is the same as the pilot but that's a pain in the ass to do also...
i changed both front wheel cylinders,brake shoes and the hand master cylinder (for new) on the pilot yesterday and had the same problem even with the vac pump it was a pain but lifting the front end helped to get out the last of the bubbles....it worked and now have a great brakes again....

Ok I went to harbor freight tools and bought a might vac pump, it went great... Lots of air comin out even through the master which I never had until now. The other thing that helps is removing a front brake drum while pumping. This gave me pressure at the trigger after I pumped a few times with the drum off just be careful don't go too crazy for fear of blowing a wheel cylinder seal. I bled front and rear and I now have awesome bràkes front and rear!! Thanks for everyone's help!!