Yeah any and of them, the Pilot uses a adhesive that is resistant to oils but I would not want to use any solvents on it just in case, just clean it with a rag, get the bulk of the crap off.

Got it,, thanks

Did you get your seals yet?

I have not sir. Probably tomorrow. No big deal either way as it'll be a few days before I receive the ones that got shipped today. Thanks for the prompt shipping.

Ok back on Fatcat's Engine weather too crappy to ride so no use rushing Mudbogger's LT Pilot I have all the parts I need for this Engine so I want to get it done besides it looks like he is about ready for his Engine back. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9906

This thing with the flywheel threads missing has been pissing me off so after thinking about it since our last discussion here about flywheels I decided they have to be their and they ARE they were just neatly covered with a mixture of oil and dirt!

Lesson learned check to see if threads are filled up with dirt.

Flywheel pulled per service manual using the specified tools. Skillbilly acts or caveman tools not required

Shit load oil mess to clean up

Bolts that hold stator require loctite you can see the factory applied...

Stator removed so can clean up oil slick, the stator assemble will just be wiped off with clean paper towels no solvents or cleaners will be used for risk of damage to winding coatings.

350 crank seal replacement.

Cleaned.


350 crank seal replacement.

Carefully run a screw into metal part of the seal then pull


350 crank seal replacement.

New crank seal greased and installed, Fatcat has already did the mod for the balancer vent so I plugged the factory vent hole so no more oil can get here (see blue arrow) I first put a little yamabond 4 in the hole then run a #8 sheet metal screw in the hole.

Plug the vent with a screw mod

On to the clutch side seal replacement remove the clutch then the cover then the big nut and drive gear to expose the seal notice the metal side facing out.

Run a screw in the seal and pull it out.

I really like how you wrote the date of seal replacement. Very cool thanks!

Hi Hoser, I was fooling around on the web looking at old stadium lites and looky what I found!

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4127" ."..

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5557" ."..

This sure looks like my cylinder and head. First link has a powerblock clutch with a big crack in it. Notice the air fins on the lower clutch side of my jug? Also damaged.

sorry to tell you this but its not your cylinder head..yours has output or input coolant holes on the side..

and the cylinder is different as well. you can see where they started and left on on the welding on your, and on the stadium lite its not visible in the pic.

Thank you, I didn't notice those differences. Good eye! I could have definately been fooled. The clutch thing and my bent up cooling fins really had me going. I'll send this blue coyote an email to see if he has any specs on it. Hopefully its owner has some Engine numbers we can compare. IMO they look too similar to be done by different people. Someone could have also coppied their water jacket design. I'll post more when I get a response. Maybe they can give me leads on the builder of theirs. I'd like to find some history on mine.

Also welding on my top plate at the cooling exit. Theirs threads directly into the head. Just noticed that!

What intake manifold and carb are you planning on running with this top end?

Your stock manifold has a small surface crack on top where the silicone was you can still use this manifold temporary but it needs replaced the rubber is also hard removing a lot of the isolation that was designed into the part this can shake the carb and cause fuel frothing problems in the float bowl.

I think Speedchaser was going to make some after market manifolds?

I think we're gonna stick with stock and upgrade ASAP. new carbs not in the budget right now.

My future plans are stock intake and 35mm keihin. What would you recommend?

The whole post must not have loaded last time. Didn't see that speedchaser was making some. I'll definately be upgrading to his when I have the extra cash. I'm also going to do a speedchaser front bumper. Got a few more things I want to do. Going one piece at a time. Definately want to be able to do this badlands trip then finish the upgrades when we get back.

You can add the carb anytime it will still run really strong with a stock carb since you have a clutch and pipe.

Not sure what to recommend on the 350 if it was a Pilot I would say a 39mm PWK search ebay for a good used one off a motorcycle they usually go cheap.

Ask some of the 350 gurus what they think for carb size.

Your Engine is pretty much done I was just putting the finishing touches on the FMF reed cage (more JB weld) when its dry I will finish and install tomorrow.

All three seals replaced, took the starter apart it had a little oil inside so I cleaned everything up by just taking clean rags and gently wiping the oil off didnt want to use any solvents on the armature or permanent magnets I did use some of that electronics cleaner on the brush assembly.

Some as found pics.

Measured the old brushes and the new brushes almost no wear on them no use replacing, the bearing and bushing was in good shape so was the O rings so saved the rebuild kit for future use just cleaned everything up really good lubed the bearing and bushing then reassembled.