I guess that is why i was so confused. I didnt know there were more than 1 type of relay. No wonder i couldnt make it work. Iwill have to get the correct relay and try it again...once i have the correct relay im sure it wont be that big of a deal to wire up the way you have told me. Sorry for the confusion!

Just took this PilotFL800 relay pic to help clarify things,lucky it's Sat morning 9:14am here Downunder ...Baz

Well i now feel stupid that i didnt realize there were 2 differnt relay types. Looked through my stash of parts and i had the correct one, and just with some test wires i got it to work exactly like i want it to. When the relay has power to it, it ungrounds the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). and then with no power it grounds the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). Thanks for helping me out and not reaching through the computer screen and smacking me..... glad i finally realized what i was doing wrong!

Got a little more done this weekend. Got my front end completely assembled and torqued to spec. just gotta put the cotter pins in the balljoints and tierods and the front will be done. Bled the brakes and my master cylinders seem to be working just fine. My rear caliper is acting sorta funny though it seems. The pads are like too large? with the brand new EBC Pads, the caliper would barely fit on the rear disk. The disk spins but is dragging a bit. i am assuming the first time i take it out for a quick ride they will wear down a bit? My rear brake handle is extremely stiff and i believe it is because of this. the piston doesnt have really anywhere to go.

Here are some pictures. I just love the stance this thing has so far. It is going to look quite a bit bigger than my FL570.

looking good

Looks really nice, are those your long travel front A arms?

I think you just helped me pick the color to paint my Speedchaser front bumper.

Thanks. You're FL350 LT front end makes me wanna tear apart my 570 when this pilot is done lol.



Yes they are the Yoda LT front arms. Still using the stock shocks until i can afford some Fox 2.0's



It was a tough decision. I wasn't sure if i should go black or red. Just ended up having it powdercoated with the rest of the frame. I really like the looks of it red.

that's the perfect front end in my eyes.Bumper,yoda,fox airs!

plus trx 450r front spindles and disk brakes with douglas yellow label 4+1 wheels

I agree that it is looking great. I also had some problems with the fit of some EBC pads that were on my Pilot when I bought it. They were worn down so it did not drag from being too tight. However, the pad was too tall for the disc and was hanging over a little. This caused a lip to form over the edge as it wore and created a drag that way. The OEM pads that I replaced them with seem a much better fit.

glad to hear it is not just me then. I used the EBC pads on my FL350 and they seem to work just fine. I may just have to break down and buy a set of Honda pads. I got these for a total of $12 on ebay so i am not out much, plus i could just use them on the FL350 if i ever needed.

Bonus!

Well after a nightmare of trying to get this damn thing running, i got it running, although not that well. I have been going back and forth with ideas to hoser helping me out getting it running (Thanks!). Here are some pictures of the carburetor setup, not that great of a picture but you get the idea. I don't have a fuel filter on it at the moment, that was part of my troubleshooting fase. I wasn't sure if it was getting any fuel and wanted to have little resistance for the fuel.

I have made a post at a few PWC forums to try and have someone point me to a good baseline setting for these carbs as i had no idea what they were off of, but apparently nobody does their own work on a PWC because i have yet to have a reply. So instead i got to do some digging to try and find what ran these carbs. I came across that a 95-7 SeaDoo HX ran these Mikuni BNi 38 carbs. That PWC has a 717 CC Engine in it, so it should be comparable to the 670 as far as the carburetor settings? Found the repair manual for them that states the factory jetting/settings were as follows.

130 high
75 low
Low-speed screw 1-1/2 turn
High speed screw 0

Does this mean that the high speed needle on these carbs should be all the way in? 0_o that does not seem right. Although mine are currently at 2 turns out and it is rich as hell, but lean on the bottom. My carbs are setup as follows

130 high
67.5 low
Low-Speed screw 2-2.5
High speed screw 2

What do you guys think would be a good starting point on the jetting? Leave it as it is, or go a larger low speed jet. Right now i have to feed it with the primer to get it passed the low speed and once it transfers to the high speed needle it sounds decent, but is still really rich, but once it drops to a certain RPM it just has no throttle and bogs badly and will more or less die. Feed it with the primer and it will usually recover and alow me to bring the RPMs back up to the high side of the carb.

Besides that, i was working on finishing fabricating my muffler. I got the first part of it welded together and ran out of welding wire, damnit. more on order so i hope that gets here and i can finish the pipe and muffler this weekend. Still need to mount my pipe perminantly, but was waiting for me to finish the muffler first before i set anything in stone.

Go over to GroupK and read all these http://www.groupk.com/docstech.htm
Get bored read these also http://www.groupk.com/docsarchive.htm

Lots of great info their you will not find anything that will apply directly to you far as numbers but you read between the lines you can see what to do and not to do and how changes can affect your carbs, the performance, jetting etc.

I am 99.9% sure the oil pump is being over driven and that is the source of some of my tuning issues. I ran the Engine for probaly 3 minutes or less, took the pipe off to modify the mounts and oil was basicly pouring out of it. if i don't get home too late tomorrow i am going to put the SeaDoo oil pump on it and see if that changes anything. Will keep you guys posted.

Here is my pipe. may not be the most beautiful but it should work. i still have to build the mounts for it. Plan on paiting it with flame proof paint. It will be a loud SOB

Its still a work in progress. So don't expect perfection

im fairly certain it is running too lean on the low end. I cant get it to fire without the primer, and once is starts to fire it wont stay running unless i prime it to get it up to a certain RPM. once there it will run great, but if i let off the throttle it will die. I can keep it running holding the throttle open a little ways, but as soon as i give it more throttle to get it to rev it just falls on its face and slowly works its way to the point where it transfers to the high speed jet. This was with the low needles all the way out. I screwed them in about 1 full turn out from closed and i can barely get it to run enough to bring it to the high speeds.

I also changed out the skidoo pump for the seadoo one and it seems to be running much cleaner. It does not smoke near as bad, about like it should.

If your running an inline filter it will starve the carbs for fuel at idle because there is a internal filter inside the carbs. What slow jet are you running? Also you can turn out the low end adjustment to see if that helps with the idle.

I had the low end adjustment all the way out and it was still running like this, turned it 1 turn from closed and i could barrely get it to run. I was not running a fuel filter, just recently put one on. should i not run a filter?

I am running a 67.5 slow jet. I just ordered 70 72.5 and 75 to toy with.

Yeah no inline filter. Both carbs are equiped with and internal filters behind the pump you might want to take a look at then and make sure they are clean. If your adjusted all the way out on the low side adjuster then its time to got up on the slow jet. Your adjuster can adjust equivilant to 3 jet sizes so I would go up by 3 sizes and put your adjuster at 1 and a half turns out so you have room to turn it up or down.

when i first started i dissasembled the carbs thinking a jet coulda been plugged by the way it was acting, so i cleaned out the filters. I will remove the inline filter and save it for my other odyssey with round slide mikuni carbs.

thanks for the adjustment tips. I had read that if i am more then 3 turns out on the low, go up on jetting, if i am less than a half turn go down.

What is a good start for the high speed needle? The seadoo manual i was reading said 0 turns with a 130 jet for a 717 seadoo. my carbs have the 130 high jet and i have them at a turn and a half out. Should i turn them to 0? that seems like it would completely cut the fuel supply. Maybe its different than other carbs i have worked on.

Well i got my jets, here is a quick video. Does it still sound too rich or lean on the bottom end? its got a nasty bog when you hit the throttle. let me know whatcha think. Thanks

Did you take it out for a ride and get the Engine up to full temp before making the video?

I did not, but i did let it run here in my shop and get to operating temp. It was at about 180 degreese

Matt you need to actually take it for a blatt!
You can rev there all day long and it won't clear up.
I learned this from my old mechanic Dean (RIP),he told me that unless you actually drive it and load the Engine up to clear it,then your wasting your time and chasing your tail!