We went riding at the Badlands (2-26-00) and pretty much got rained out but before we did leave Kiowa, 
Stoneman and myself decided to take a run down a very muddy trail it was fun but after we went through it 
a few times I noticed my rear brakes were not quite up to par, so after i washed my Pilot I figured it was 
time to inspect and clean the rear brakes since I knew from past experances that once you have been 
in the mud it is time to take apart your brakes to clean them out. Back in the days when I raced and they 
would water the track down and get a little carried away I would have to take my brakes apart after 
every race weekend.

The above picture was taken before we got into the really nasy mud.

You can see just how much mud stays inside, no matter how well you wash it
the only way to make sure it is clean is to take it apart and wash it.

After the caliper is removed using a Vise Grips will push the piston back onto the 
caliper real easy, you will want to remove the the cap on your brake res and check 
your fluid level before pushing the piston all the way in unless you want fluid 
all over the place.

After you get your brakes apart you will see that everything is covered in mud.
These parts went right in the sink to be washed with soap and water and then
blown dry with compressed air before going right into the parts pan to be washed 
again in mineral sprits.

This is kind of a bad picture but you can see inside the caliper it is full
of mud, it also was cleaned but by wiping and scraping off as much of 
the mud as possible then washed with brake cleaner and dried.

The parts starting to come clean :-)

The caliper after washing

The caliper with new pads installed.... All the bolts were coated with 
Anti-Sieez and not Lithium Grease because of the high temperatures
the brakes can generate.
As you can see I always have a new set of pads that I carry in my 
tool box just in case I need them. Back when I did a lot of racing a set 
of pads would only last 2-3 races or about 1-2 tanks of gas depending
on how tight the track was.

When you buy the pads from Honda you will get a new guide bolt
with the pads and sometimes you will the stainless steel spring
that holds the pads.
If you buy the after market pads you will need to buy the pin from Honda
if you try to use the old pin the pads will not maintain proper alignment
and will wear out very soon. You will also notice on the Honda pads
they have polished stainless steel backing plates, those are to reflect the 
heat back to the pads and keep the heat away from the caliper, something 
you wont find on the after market pads and another good reason to buy
the Honda pads. 
Like with everything else you get what you pay for, you buy cheap you get cheap

The old pads next to the new pads. No need to measure the thickness of the 
old pads I can tell at a glance they have met their life expectancy.
Brake pads are like tires, pistons, rings ect. they are throw away items.

The next thing on my list is to inspect the clutch and go through the front
brakes, I am sure they are just as bad as the rear ones are.