Hello, Came across this forum did some research and bought me a Odyssey :) Also got the Shop Manual!
Went to see it, needs some TLC. Everything works... One pull and it starts, same with electric.

What I know... primary clutch has been upgraded to a Comet 102 series. Top end has been rebuilt with wiseco piston & rings. everything else is stock... Im not sure if the carb is original Ill take a pic.

Im thinking for peace of mind...
Change spark plug, fuel filter, air filter
re-route the fuel lines
new bearings all around F&R
new brakes F&R and master cylinder rebuilt kit, flush new in fluid. Any fluid recommend?
change the oils.... Should I use the Honda4? as per manual or Amsoil? since the Engine been modified.

The shocks are toast! I don't know if I want to drop 1G for new shocks... What would be ideal upgrade New Works rear and find a used front set... or used rear set and new front works? What would be better?

I havent check compression on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) yet. I would like to eventually tear down and restore, sandblast and repaint new.

All thoughts are welcomed, I am here to learn and try my best to keep this a classic.

Cheers,
Nick

Hello, welcome to the site.....very nice oddy......I am no expert, so I hope others will chime in as well.....

As far as the routine maintenance items, plug, fuel filter, and air filter should be checked and cleaned or changed.

Would be a good idea to get a compression check at this point as well since you are the new owner.

Shocks would be the biggest bang for the buck as far as suspension and handling. I believe there is a front set, hardly used, for sale on this site, please do a search on them..........

The HP4 is a 4 stroke oil and should be used in the balancer and trans if you prefer the Honda brand.

The HP2 is a 2 stroke oil and used for the pre mix for the Engine....again, if you prefer the Honda brand.

Good luck.....and have fun....

Hi welcome to the site.

Sounds like your on the right track with your maintenance plan, read that service manual cover to cover a few times get familiar with the machine..

Read this service bulletin http://www.pilotodyssey.com/350sb.htm

I would first inspect the front brake shoes before buying new most just need adjusted properly it takes forever to wear out a set of shoes most people favor the rear brakes not the fronts so they last a really long time.

Their has been a lot of discussion on front brakes on this site this will get you started http://www.pilotodyssey.com/brakes-front.htm

It looks like you have a Comet 102C clutch I would buy a can of the comet lube then inspect and lube it up good, also research the comet 102C clutch on this site and on the web find the manual learn about service, read up about the available clutch cover.

On this page you will see what your clutch will look like if not maintained scroll down a bit viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4235&start=20 the cover looks like this .



Air box mod is a great mod for the 350 http://www.pilotodyssey.com/350air.htm


Adding a prefilter is a great idea too. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8929

Lots of reading on air filters viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5491


This will keep you busy so much more to say don't want to overwhelm you

We need to start a new thread that covers this http://www.pilotodyssey.com/350modification.htm in detail and more, its kinda updated, also list all the common rookie mistakes misconceptions.

"Shocks would be the biggest bang for the buck as far as suspension and handling. I believe there is a front set, hardly used, for sale on this site, please do a search on them.........."

Fully has them.

Rear Shocks! Fronts are not that critical. Don't get me wrong they help but nothing compared to the difference you will see with rear shocks.

Make sure you get them valved for your weight. Mine are too soft because I didn't get them valved for my weight and they bottom out on occasion.

Rand

:) thank you guys! I did see that some members names are more superstar status lol (see your name pop up in threads)
Funny that I have stumbled across some of the same link you have sent. I was on that Comet page reading lol

The rears are just shot... no movement... hoped on the back and jumped up n down nothing. Fronts are just as bad, I think Ill get new rears and used fronts. Also I believe the wheels are ITP. I think I got a good deal 2700cnd

Anything else to know about? Its pretty straight forward... Ive been browsing the site a week before I went and bought it.

Here is a pic of the tranny fluid I just took out to see.... i think it needs a change!

Just when I thought the reading would take a breather ...... phhhhhh

I don't think i would bother replacing your fronts. Just get the rears, and save your money until you can afford the fronts. Seems that most, if not all of the FL350 shocks just suck! I've got works shocks all around and it is night and day difference from the pogo stick stock odyssey i have.

Never hurts to change the trans and balancer oil you never know what the previous owner did or used and how often.

If it was mine I would change both then after 4-5 tanks of gas change them again.

re the rear shocks... what its asking if i wanted threaded, does this mean I can adjust it after the dial in my specs. (weight etc) is it worth the 45$?

I will do that re&re oil per 4-5 tanks. should clean it up inside a bit after a few cycles.

Where are you trying to order the shocks from? Afterthought motorsports? I believe the best way to do it is call works direct and have them dial in a pair of shocks for your weight, riding style ect. The people there will be able to set you up correct for sure.

The works rear are the best upgrade I put on my odyssey to date... The stock rears NEVER move lol

Please take another clear picture of the Engine especially the head, cant really see in the pics but the head looks like a pre-recall head with the straight cooling fins.

Look an the rear of your frame where the serial number is stamped in is their a X at the end?

Here is a pic of the Engine... also my RR upper arm looks bent? any confirm?

The Carb is missing some plastic tubes on the side... Kiehin... can I tell if its upgraded?

Let me know your thoughts... thanks

Looks like the carb is missing the overflow tubes is all. I believe it is stock.

Also, i notice you have an old straight fin Engine. Those were usually taken out due to a recall for them getting too hot. I don't know much about if they are okay to run or not.

I've never seen one of those head's on a fl350.

Replace that head as soon as you can... They recalled it for poor heat circulation.. a curved head can be had on ebay for cheap!

Im going to grab a compression tester and check it out.

Which head is the right one?? any link on ebay? or upgraded head?

Would taking it off need any gasket upon reinstall... don't have the manual on hand.

No X at the end... FC1091**

I beleive if it was recalled about the overheating issue it would have a X at the end of the vin. I'm not a fl350 guy - fl350 experts please jump in.

Head: You maybe able to find one cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-FL350-Hond ... 92&vxp=mtr" ."..

Head Gasket:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cometic-Top-End ... 06&vxp=mtr" ."..

No X on the end of the vin means that it was an early FL350 and was never taken into a dealer to have the Engine replaced. Not sure if the cylinder is different from the Engine you have to the after recall Engine but i know the head is different. So i am not sure if just replacing the head will take care of the problem.

Here is a nice head on ebay. Notice how the fins have a Y to them where yours are straight front to back? I advise finding out if you should run it or replace the head before running it to hard.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Odyssey-F ... ca&vxp=mtr

If it was recalled it would have an X at the end of the vin. that's a before recall head. If you want a curved head Ive got one I'll never use. I'll sell it to you for much cheaper than eBay prices. It's in good condition. PM me if interested.

Oh....and during the recall they reduced the bore from 80mm to 78(I think it was). On the head gasket I'd just reuse the stock gasket. Its a 3 piece metal gasket. You can separate the 3 piece gasket and use a single layer with a thin, even layer of permatex copper spray to bump your compression a bit.

Interesting :) thanks! Does the change they did only affect the head? or was it all?

All I know was the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was done (1st post) wiseco piston.

Many other things were done during the recall, they removed the transmission and changed gears or shafts inside to make it stronger, different CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), different jetting in the carb, different cylinder and head, different air scoops, basically they had over heating problems and made changed to solve the problem.

Before recall it was 342 cc after the recall it was 329 cc .

Hi, thanks for you replies. Questions I have are... Taking off the head is just that... new gasket and torque to spec? Should I take some pics of the area to see condition and post..

Also, I wanted to change the oils etc and that... Should I take a compression test now... to see and then change or change now and fire it up?

On my tranny, when I go to engage the gear it kinda makes a small grind... owner told me that you must have the brakes on tight and not be revving the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) ((Internal Combustion Engine?)) ((Internal Combustion Engine?)) and then switching.

If I have any other questions Ill let you know..

Take a compression test and see what condition you top end is in before you do anything to it. If it is like any other Ody that I have purchased, the top end is probably worn and in need of a possible rings or piston.

After compression check, pull the head and take a look to see what the condition the cylinder is in. I have seen these engines time and time again needing a rebuild because they were worn beyond service limits.

Please take some pictures and post what you find.

We all love pictures!

As far as putting it in gear the Ody will grind if the rpm is too high. Make sure your idle is good and low and when you put it into gear, stab it into gear quickly. Do not do it gently because it will grind even more.

You can disable the starter lock out on the transmission so it will start in gear and there will be no grinding.

WARNING!Doing this will allow the Ody to start in gear! The Ody can take off on you if you are not paying 100% attention to what you are doing when starting it in gear!

Rand