I have an FL250. I guess I was lucky, I picked mine up for $250 with a frozen throttle and brake cable. The cables are free and it runs great, I just snapped the pull-start rope (GRRR) the other day because it's a short rope. I needed to replace it anyways. I like this toy, its a lot of fun to drive and I have decided on keeping it since there are NO OTHER ones at all in my area.

My "friend" who is into 4x4 ATVs makes fun of it, but its a straight chassis (from what I can see) and it runs great. I like the roll-cage too (we've re-enforced it a bit). I am having it professionally repainted this summer and putting the Nerf style padding for bars on the roll-cage. Should look really cool when I am done. I am keeping the red color, it's just too classic to not keep.

do you guys recommend anything? It didn't come with the snorkel kit, safety straps for hands, or the head net. I know the last 2 are probably highly recommended. Any ways I can mod regular netting material into the area to protect the head (IDK if my model had the netting stock).

*BELOW PICS WERE TAKEN THE DAY I WENT TO BUY IT (AT OLD OWNER'S BARN) IT HAS SINCE HAD SOME STUFF DONE TO IT, AND I PLAN TO UPDATE AS WE GO ALONG*

Welcome to the board.....

As far as additional goodies, there is an electric starter kit you can add to your Ody. I believe the manufacturer is Goki.

Looks like the end of the exhaust is missing and or has been modified, you may want to get that or replace it with another after market pipe.

Rand

I am looking for some parts:

- kill switch assembly for driving controls.
- headlight assembly + light itself (can I make my own?)
- gas cap for gas tank (currently have it covered with tarps)

Do you have a pic of what my exhaust is supposed to look like? would that explain extra noise when it's running or is it an aesthetic thing?

oh wow, electric start by goki is costly.

What's missing is the spark arestor. It quiets down the exhaust considerably.

Do a search here on the board. You will find all kinds of ideas for modifications. There are quite a few guys who have FL250's who will chime in and give you some good solid advice.

Someone from the board may sell you a starter system a lot cheaper than on evilbay!

Rand

thanks so much for the helpful information right off the bat. Is this the right area to progressively update everyone on my progress?

Yes, you are in the projects section but the title "new to the forum :)" doesn't explain your project very well. You can start a new post with a title that better describes what you have and what you are doing such as "hottom 3rd's FL250 restoration". Your first post title lets us know you are new to the board but doesn't let us know that you are restoring an FL250 unless everyone reads it.

A lot of us here started out with the old FL250 and the progressed into FL350's or Pilots. I myself had a 1977 FL250 set up to race flat track and it was a blast!

Again welcome!

Rand

Not sure where you're from, but just across the line in MI here there's a guy that's got a a crap-load of FL250 stuff. I'm sure he has at least 2 of everything (per the ad). If you can't find it on PO, check with this guy.

http://monroemi.craigslist.org/mcy/3544674139.html

If your Engine has a points generator, you may want to consider converting to CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). But it ain't cheap!

thanks for the link.. and what are the benefits to switching to CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)? I aim to just ride around yards and stuff so..

If you want to do an FL250 restoration on the cheap look at bigheads section here in projects. He did a nice job on them without spending a ton.

Hi
Welcome to the site.

Buy a NEW gas cap from Honda they are only $6.50 and still available, check that tank for rust too.

17620-329-010 CAP, FUEL FILLER $6.47

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/H ... parts.html

For less than 2 bux you can still get a spare gasket you might as well order one of them too while you still can get them.

Also, Summit Racing sells the padding in a variety of colors. Or you can always just get some black pipe insulation at Home Depot.

-Dan

rubber gas cap gasket?

home depot/lowes is exactly what i was thinking. :)

I'm thinking of making a head netting myself, any suggestions on durable materials for it? (similar to folding lawn-chair styled interwoven netting for whiplash prevention). As long as it's black in color :)

I run a NGK BR8ES spark plug - couple bucks at any autoparts store. The manual calls for a B7ES. The R stands for resistor. BR8ES is "hotter" then BR7ES and BR9ES is "hotter" then BR8ES.

As far as lights - the 77 odyssey puts out 6v AC. I assume you are still running points. Do you have the oem light? If not you could go with the OEM headlight or you could purchase the Goki which will give you a 12 V battery. You can run almost any lights off of that. The goki does not charge the battery. I thought someone on here came up with a way to charge the battery. I ust charge my battery between rides.

You need a manal.

Weres the link for the manual ????

In theory I could just run a small tractor/rv battery and how long would the light last ?

I may be wrong on the Hotter thing - never got into it much. A lot of bullshit around spark plugs out there. The sure fire / split fire shit, and the new and improved bullshit E3 crap. Just a waist of money.

Any way I found this on the web it states 7 is hotter then 8 and 8 is hotter then 9

B = Thread size, 14mm, Hex size 20.8mm
R = Resistor plug
Number = heat range, lower number is hotter plug
E = Thread reach, 19mm
S = Electrode type, Standard 2.5mm center

to many variable to answers. What size bulbs - what battery - is the battery fully charged.

I do not ride much at night so lights are not that important to me.

Why not just go with the oem head light?

Only down side is it only works when Engine is running and dims down with idle.

as for the run kill switch r u sure yours is bad. couple months back i did a little work on a 79 250 i had picked up and some 1 had wired their own kill switch up and mounted it just to the right behind the seat. it looked like a mess so i yanked it off and got into figuring out what they did to the wiring and ended up realizing the only think wrong was the original loom has plugs and it must have come undone and they thought the switch was bad. i cleaned it and plugged it back in and all it needed was some tape. take a look underneath the odyssey where the wires come out beneath the stearing wheel