Power Pro's torque pipe with Super Silencer, From UN-boxing to modification to installation.

The UPS god was good to me today, my new Power Pro's torque pipe with the quiet silencer came today The options I chose the Power Pro's pipe with the ceramic coating $45 so I don't have to paint the stupid thing 3 times a year (I bet I have spent almost that much painting my current pipe) I chose Super Silencer $25 (a must if you have ever hear a standard length silencer) and the US Forestry spark arrester for $35 no need to buy one of those crap Sparky spark arrester for 55.00, the $35 billet one Power Pro's sells actually looks like it belongs on the silencer.

I just took one fast picture to show you guys I will take some better ones outside in the sun
later this weekend, after I get my Pilot rebuilt back up and running look for a full test on how
it performs on my Pilot and I will keep you updated on how well the ceramic coating holds
up as the season progresses.



Notice this is a hand formed cone pipe not a stamped steel pipe like
stock, with the hand formed cones you get a better more precise performing
pipe over a stamped steel pipe.




They even coated the piece that attaches to the silencer.

Here you can see the $35.00 Billet built in spark arrester.

A close up of the spark arrester screen installed, look close starting at about 7 o'clock to
about 10 o'clock you can see the where the tubing don't meet the billet plate too well and
creates a flow restriction.

Cant wait to play around with that screen to see if it cost power, right now I would say it was
worth the 35.00 over buying the Sparky


With the billet cap removed you can see the screen, the billet cap is held in-place with 4 machine
screws



Removing the inlet end of the silencer to see if they packed it full, this part is steel with the
ceramic coating, welds are clean and smooth.



Back side of billet plate, you can see where they machine pockets to save material and reduce
weight?



As you can see by looking at both ends that they packed the silencer full!

Here is a good example of a after market part that needs help before installing.


You can see in the next 4 pictures more of the mismatch and restriction.




I cant tell just how well the inlet will match the end of the expansion chamber so I will have to do
some measuring, one thing is for sure the burr inside the pipe has to go, the burr will cause
turbulence but is easy enough to remove with a Dremil or porting tool.



New 4X4 Tuff pipe next to my old ATV Racing "Quiet Silencer" notice how much better the
pipe looks with the built in spark arrester over using the sparky.



See the rust on the old silencer I had to pain that pipe 3 times last year, I hope the ceramic
coating keeps the new one from rusting



I like all the misalignment I see on all the pieces and hope all the pipes are this way and worse
than the one you see here, most guys will remove the pipe from the box and install it where I
will spend the time to make the necessary flow corrections and adjustments to insure the proper
flow, maybe even have a edge over the guy who don't have a clue what he is looking at other than
he has a pretty new pipe

A little alignment is needed here too the pipe inside is offset and as you can see in the next
picture with the exhaust manifold installed that the flow of exhaust gases will hit the end of the
pipe and not only restrict flow but will create a hot spot that could ignite the fresh air/fuel
charge coming into the Engine.



With the exhaust manifold installed into the pipe I discovered more flow problems, It is hard to
see in this picture but where it is dark from 2 o'clock to about 7 o'clock the fit is perfect, from 7
o'clock to 2 o'clock where you see the shine metal is where the pipe would stick into the flame
and create a flow restriction. If you think this looks bad you should see the mismatch and
casting flaws in a stock Honda Pilot cylinder



With the exhaust manifold installed into the pipe I discovered more flow problems, It is hard to
see in this picture but where it is dark from 2 o'clock to about 7 o'clock the fit is perfect, from 7
o'clock to 2 o'clock where you see the shine metal is where the pipe would stick into the flame
and create a flow restriction. If you think this looks bad you should see the mismatch and
casting flaws in a stock Honda Pilot cylinder



I used a die grinder with a rosebud tip to hog out the bad spots then feathered it in with a
sanding drum on the Dremel tool and finished up with 220 grit sand paper.








Bad picture I know but after taking 10 pictures I gave up, it is hard to see but starting at 1 o'clock
to 4 o'clock you can still see some of the pipe, the edge has been rolled and moved over to provide
a smooth surface for the exhaust gases to flow over and there is a actually a curve it will flow (no
reduction in pipe size) over, this is much better than it was out of the box, had it not been adjusted
the raw end of the pipe would have been sticking into the exhaust gas flow and create a hot spot
as well as provided a place for carbon to build up.



The whole idea here was to make flow corrections not enlarge anything, the total time to make these
corrections was about 30 minutes, will I see a large increase in power by doing this? Don't know
don't really care what I do know is my exhaust will flow much better for the next several hundred
hours of run time than it did 30 minutes ago

More to come after I get the pipe and silencer installed.

4X4 Tuff torque pipe with Super Silencer

The installation is pretty straight forward and just like installing any other after market
exhaust pipe the brackets are close but not exact some might need a little bending
to make a good fit, this don't surprise me at all the pipe was made then shipped to
another company to be ceramic coated then shipped out to me so the brackets
are bound to get tweaked a bit in the handling, it is really no big deal just a minor
adjustment here and there.



When you get the pipe installed it is important to make sure that the pipe or
brackets are not touching the frame, if it does touch the vibration will crack
the pipe mounts.



The top bolt you see on this bracket is a 1/4" bolt with a flat washer on each
side.




You really need to play attention on this mount, I have seen 3 break at the frame,
make sure that there is plenty of clearance, I added a flat washer between the rubber
mount and the pipe bracket to allow for extra movement you might see when the Engine
is at full power or torque.




I use High Temp Silicone sealant on this connection and let it dry 24 hours before
starting the Engine, some people like to use a high temp rubber hose and hose
clamps.



The top bolt you see on this bracket is a 1/4" bolt with a flat washer on each
side.




Over all the installiation went smooth and only took about 45 minutes to install
the fit was about the same as installing my ATV Racing Rev pipe and Quiet Silencer.

where can i buy this?

where can i buy this?

Good question. Where do you get these?

Contact Power Pros see if they are back into building pipes again. They made these pipes for ATV Racing and 4x4 tuff and I am sure others.

Nice writeup and nice looking pipe.Have you had a chance to test it yet?

Yes back in 2001 the pipe was tested this is one of the static pages on my website I moved to here on the message board side only about 700 more pages to move lol

You will notice this pipe is a welded segmented cone pipe the new torque pipes you will get today are the stamped body pipes. all the Engine tuners I have talked to said the hand built cone pipes perform better than a stamped pipe, meaning if you take the same pipe design and make it by cones and one by stamping process the cone pipe always out performs the stamped pipe, a few of the guys worked for OEMs doing pipe development with huge budgets said they even tried changing the stamped pipe several times to try and get back some of the power loses with little success its the sharp cone angles you cant recover with stamping, blow molding or hydro-forming, those who look and notice will see most factory teams run hand formed pipes for this reason, many are hidden under the factory pipe wrap (insulated metal stampings over the body of the pipe)

Stamped pipes are a profit thing for the manufactures.

Hoser, did you ever replace the muffler/arrestor on a power pros setup with an FMF Quiet Core II?

I know that was/is a tech write up, but not sure if I have my lines crossed

I think Wiggins pipe was a power pros torque viewtopic.php?t=1257&highlight=fmf
https://www.google.com/search?q=fmf+sil ... zekF1HGWKE